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Old 10-02-2012, 09:14 AM   #1
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Toy hauler with rotted floor, real bad!

So, my wife and I bought our Extreme RV, Megalite 23LT in 2008, leftover from 2007. Anyways, the following summer in 2009 we realized there was water damage in the main front section. Basically we noticed the floor bowing after walking on it. I pulled the linoleum up and it was soft, water soaked and molding. I opened the front understorage compartment and it was the same deal. Probably the entire front part of the RV 10 feet back. I think the Hauler was actaully flooded at one point, before we purchased it. The walls and roof are fine. I ended drying everything up and putting a second layer of wood down in the front and the understorage front and sealed everything back up.

Two years later I notice the very back portion where the ramp drops the floor is bowing. Opened it up and same thing, not as bad. Maybe two feet in on both side and a few feet up.

Not sure if I can cover anything up anymore. I'm at the point where I'm thinking about gutting the entire inside and laying an entirely new floor.

#1 is that even possible? Are the walls sitting on the floor?

It's a aluminum framed trailer. The entire support frame is aluminum/metal.

#2 is there another way around this?

I have a good group of friends that would be willing to help out. I just don’t know if it’s even possible.
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:21 AM   #2
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I would not cover anything eather the front might still be soft under the new stuff that was put down but it needs to be fix correctly. All of it can be fixed
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:41 AM   #3
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I do not know the construction of that model, but if you have had the second bout with rotting, if you want to keep it, you would be better off disassembling it and replacing the floor. If it was flooded or prolonged leaking you could also have mold in the walls or other areas you do not currently see.
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Old 10-02-2012, 11:31 AM   #4
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So, I'm guessing I have repalce all the of lower wall supports and the floor. I do know the wood floor sits directly on the aluminum frame. I think this almost makes it harder. I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but this might be a little much for me.

I would have to remove the entire front bed, shower/walls, refridgerator, sinks and countertops. Upper cabinants that are connected to the side wall of the shower would have to be removed as well.

My interior is an exact replica to this model:
http://www.rzrforums.net/misc-sale/8...t-edition.html
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Old 10-02-2012, 01:10 PM   #5
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Again I did not build it.
The most likely would in fact be that the floor sheeting went down first. If you have wall to wall linoleum that probably went down next and everything else after that.
If you have a full/welded aluminum frame to include side walls the side walls would not sit on the floor sheeting but the stud cover would (inside wall material), which would make it easier. Knowing whether the walls are stapled, screwed, or glued would help. Obviously glued at this point would not be good.
No, a replacement of the sheeting is not a quick job. You would in essence be doing a disassemble replace sheeting and reassemble. The only savings is going to be you know all of the parts fit and you could upgrade the wall insulation (if you have to pull the walls). Being a toy hauler makes it somewhat easier than a conventional unit.
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Old 10-02-2012, 04:31 PM   #6
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Yea it a big job but it can be done
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:24 AM   #7
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Again I did not build it.
The most likely would in fact be that the floor sheeting went down first. If you have wall to wall linoleum that probably went down next and everything else after that.
If you have a full/welded aluminum frame to include side walls the side walls would not sit on the floor sheeting but the stud cover would (inside wall material), which would make it easier. Knowing whether the walls are stapled, screwed, or glued would help. Obviously glued at this point would not be good.
No, a replacement of the sheeting is not a quick job. You would in essence be doing a disassemble replace sheeting and reassemble. The only savings is going to be you know all of the parts fit and you could upgrade the wall insulation (if you have to pull the walls). Being a toy hauler makes it somewhat easier than a conventional unit.
The side walls are wood. I'm 99% sure the wood walls sit on the plywood floor. In that case how do I replace the floors if the walls are sitting on top?
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Old 10-03-2012, 06:06 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by duhameister

The side walls are wood. I'm 99% sure the wood walls sit on the plywood floor. In that case how do I replace the floors if the walls are sitting on top?
You are not going to like this but the best way to fix it is to remove the walls. That is why not very many people get into that kind of repair and everyone cringes when a soggy floor is mentioned. Unless you are planning a total rebuild a soggy floor is a 'walk away'.
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Old 10-03-2012, 06:19 AM   #9
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You can do it, I have made a dead man pole unscrew the walls off the floor and start on the end lift enough to take the weight off if it's a metal sided trailer then you can remove the siding and slide the sheet under the wall, you can cut the sheet and install in two halves but where the split lands in between the joist a block will need to be screwed to prevent the separate pieces from moving glue with sub floor glue and screw it down. Might need to use 2 poles and jacks also
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Old 10-03-2012, 06:27 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by nightriderrv
You can do it, I have made a dead man pole unscrew the walls off the floor and start on the end lift enough to take the weight off if it's a metal sided trailer then you can remove the siding and slide the sheet under the wall, you can cut the sheet and install in two halves but where the split lands in between the joist a block will need to be screwed to prevent the separate pieces from moving glue with sub floor glue and screw it down. Might need to use 2 poles and jacks also
As a facilities man by trade, it sounds like the knowledge nightriderrv has will be more helpful to you.
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:02 AM   #11
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You are not going to like this but the best way to fix it is to remove the walls. That is why not very many people get into that kind of repair and everyone cringes when a soggy floor is mentioned. Unless you are planning a total rebuild a soggy floor is a 'walk away'.
The problem is, it's a nice trailer. Not sure what you mean about "walk away"? Trade it in, take a 7-8K loss and call it good? Not sure I'm up for the job or have the time to do these kinds of repairs. **** makes a grown man want to cry.
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:13 AM   #12
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No, aimed at when people are buying trailers. You do not want to buy a trailer that has soft floors, unless the price is right or you want a project trailer.
Your case there is a decision to make, repair or take a loss.
Both are tough. Repair is doable but will take time and patience (just lost me, I have so little patience) with less money than finding another. If you rebuild it you will know how it is built, any thing like me you will probably put more money into it than you plan, as; well if I use stainless screws and glue all of the seams and paint.... you get the idea.
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:30 AM   #13
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I think I'm going to re-enforce the back portion that has been dried out, epoxy resin to strengthen the wood, lay some new flooring and trade it in. I plan telling them what the deal is and taking the loss. I don't have the time or energy for this sort of rebuild. Looking at an Keystone Energy 28' model.
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