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Old 08-02-2005, 06:10 PM   #1
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We have been piddling with the LE getting things the way we want. Just finished changing the genset oil & filter. It only has 25 hrs but is a year old. Plus now I know it is good to go. For anyones info the Wix cross for the Onan 122-0386 is 57398. Our local shops did'nt have the Onan filter. It is time to start some mods though. Need to put in a water pump converter and a water heater by pass. What was WW thinking? I know they're in so.Ca and not much concerned with freezeing, but up here blowing out the lines is risky. I want antifreeze protection. Does WW make it easy?? Of course not. The water heater is walled in in a corner of the basement . The water pump is as far back under the sink as it could be . Thanks WW! What were you thinkin?? Someone there needs up the wattage of the ole brain bulb.
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Old 08-02-2005, 06:10 PM   #2
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We have been piddling with the LE getting things the way we want. Just finished changing the genset oil & filter. It only has 25 hrs but is a year old. Plus now I know it is good to go. For anyones info the Wix cross for the Onan 122-0386 is 57398. Our local shops did'nt have the Onan filter. It is time to start some mods though. Need to put in a water pump converter and a water heater by pass. What was WW thinking? I know they're in so.Ca and not much concerned with freezeing, but up here blowing out the lines is risky. I want antifreeze protection. Does WW make it easy?? Of course not. The water heater is walled in in a corner of the basement . The water pump is as far back under the sink as it could be . Thanks WW! What were you thinkin?? Someone there needs up the wattage of the ole brain bulb.
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Old 08-02-2005, 06:18 PM   #3
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Hoverbug:
For anyones info the Wix cross for the Onan 122-0386 is 57398. Our local shops did'nt have the Onan filter. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Hoverbug,

Thanks for doing the homework.

Are you able to get that Wix at Kragens or Autozone?
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Old 08-02-2005, 06:24 PM   #4
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Need to put in a water pump converter and a water heater by pass. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Hummmm Dave...don't quite know what a water pump converter is- is that like a vacuum pump?! And the water heater bypass..if I recollect, there should be drains on the water heater so you can evacuate it...as well as the fresh water tank, which should have a drain on it also (my 95 had one).

Go idea on that 25hr oil change...you're right...that 'year' did it in.

I guess us SoCals need a primer on winterizing a rig...can you 'splain Lucy?!

Thanks!

Sean
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Old 08-02-2005, 06:27 PM   #5
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56, here our Kragens is a Schucks and we don't have an Autozone. I did check with Fram and Purolator; neither have a cross for the newer Onans. Our napa said they could order it but I got the filter at a local shop. Just for info, my previous experience with Onans has led me to using Mobile 1 5W40. They purr like kittys.
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Old 08-02-2005, 06:31 PM   #6
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">And the water heater bypass..if I recollect, there should be drains on the water heater so you can evacuate it...as well as the fresh water tank, which should have a drain on it also (my 95 had one). </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Sean, the water heater bypass is so when you winterize, you can pump the pink RV antifreeze in all through the system without filling the water heater. Saves on the pink stuff!
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Old 08-02-2005, 06:39 PM   #7
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Yeah, I guess there's some 'splainin to do'. To winterize you do drain the heater & water tanks. However a heater bypass allows adding antifreeze without filling the water heater tank. The pump converter is an add on valve which allows pumping the antifreeze from the jug right into the system. When you get a hard freeze (as here in the high desert) simply blowing out the system will usuall leave some water in the faucet valves. Most at risk is the outside shower with it's plastic faucet.With antifreeze in the lines, not to worry. My Morty the KenCraft cruised right through last winter.
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Old 08-02-2005, 06:45 PM   #8
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Use to winetize about 100 units a year in WA State. Every spring we'd fix about 200 that froze up that winter. People think if you drain and blow your good to go. NOT! That pink stuff is like gold and like HB said its not cheap and you don't want to fill the water heater with it. Its not needed there. Just in all the lines.

Good info HB, We are spoiled here in SOCal we worry more about dead batterys and sun fade.

Griz

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Old 08-02-2005, 07:12 PM   #9
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Right on Griz! If you're going to need it get it now for about $2.50 a gal. In November it will double. It only takes about 3 gallons to do the whole job. Tell you what though, I'm thinking of moving that water pump for better access under the sink. I am going to redo the paneled wall around the water heater to also alow easy access.
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Old 08-02-2005, 07:15 PM   #10
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Isn't it easier to put it in the garage?

Now let me get this straight...you want to be able to run the pink stuff thru the system, but you don't want it to go into the heater. Are you sure WW hasn't bellied up to that bar with the required shutoff? Glamis can get pretty darn cold in the winter! OK...maybe not so much as Oregon. So...all you have to do is 'coat' the lines, or do you need it to stay in the lines?

Man...this winterizing thing sounds like it's a big deal. What else do you need to worry about?

Sean
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Old 08-02-2005, 07:31 PM   #11
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Sean, thats about it. You pump the pink stuff until it comes out all the facets. then in the spring you run plenty of water through to get it out. Not needed down here. You will only see damage when 25 or below for more than a day. It use to be real bad when all the lines were copper. I have had every inch swelled and split in the whole RV. It gets very expencive to have a service department pretty much replace everthing. Things are much better today with the plastic tubeing but you still need to be carefull.

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Old 08-02-2005, 08:43 PM   #12
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Hoverbug:
Right on Griz! If you're going to need it get it now for about $2.50 a gal. In November it will double. It only takes about 3 gallons to do the whole job. Tell you what though, I'm thinking of moving that water pump for better access under the sink. I am going to redo the paneled wall around the water heater to also alow easy access. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I suspect after the convo here, and all the havoc a little cold weather could reek, that even $15 is a cheap insurance policy. Dave, I'd gladly add that on to the family budget to get the views you get up there in Oregon (not to mention the tax savings!). You lucky devil...

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Old 08-02-2005, 08:59 PM   #13
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That stuff has really came down in price over the years. 25 years ago it was $7-$10 a gallon.
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Old 08-02-2005, 09:45 PM   #14
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To answer your question Sean, no. WW does not ship with the valves installed. Even up here it's considered a consumer add on. A shame really because so many folks face an expensive repair not because they are careless, but because they are uninformed. The water pump valve is only about $15 and the water heater bypass about $20. The install is only about 30 min. each if that.
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