Community Forums

despain · 09-07-2011, 08:02 PM

Hello,

I have an odd question. I have a 1974 Winnebago Cheiftain. when I plug the trailer in the inside roof lights do not come on unless there is juice in the battery. Then there are lights that do not turn on unless plugged into 110. my question is I have owned a few other trailers before and they had a switch I had to turn from 12v to 110. I cannot find such a switch in this trailer all I can see are 3 15 amp breakers. Does anyone know if there is such a switch and if all the lights should work off 110?

Martind4 · 09-07-2011, 08:48 PM

I'm not familiar with your particular vehicle, but several of our 5th wheels had most of the interior lights as 12V and one or two reading lights as 110V. The 110V lights would not work unless the rig was connected to shore power.

Usually, the converter also acts as a battery charger so it supplies 12V for lighting and as well as charging the battery. You said that 12V lights don't work unless the battery is charged, they should work if the converter is working and the rig is connected to 110V.

I don't know of any switch that would allow a light fixture to work on either 12V or 110V.

despain · 09-07-2011, 08:57 PM

Thank you. what you have said makes perfect sense. I should have said the battery had to have some juice in it. when I initially tried it was stone dead ( carbon monoxide Sensor was left on) what I ment by the switch is the tent trailer I had had an invertor in it that you had to switch to 110 to use normal house hold items.

thanks so much just reading your post explained what I needed to know.

Happy Travels

wa8yxm · 09-08-2011, 08:37 AM

In the old days Progressive Dynamics made a 12 volt converter that worked as you describe, it had a switch (3 position) battery/off/AC or some such, I actually had one. Today most rigs have converters that both charge the batteries (this one did not) and power the lights.. they are hooked up in parallel with the battery.

Now some of those converters are junk and really need to be upgraded.. Others (For example the Progressive Dynamics 9200 series) are .. Well it just don't get better than a 9200 serries (And by the way When I say it don't get better, I do not mean to imply there are not many just as good, because there are)

One thing all these devices have in common however is a fuse.

'Yours.. is blown. ON the conveter itself, or in the 12 volt section of the power distribution center (If 12 and 120 volt re behind the same door) is/are one or two 30 amp fuses.. If two, side by side, replace both. Do this while NOT plugged into shore power.. Then plug in and see if the lights get brighter and the batteries charge.

Also, post make and model of your converter.. If you can not find the converter try the 12/120 volt distribution panel if it's a combined panel.. On my coach these 3 items (12 volt panel, 120 volt panel and converter) are separate Many have them intergrated into one unit.

despain · 09-08-2011, 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wa8yxm

In the old days Progressive Dynamics made a 12 volt converter that worked as you describe, it had a switch (3 position) battery/off/AC or some such, I actually had one. Today most rigs have converters that both charge the batteries (this one did not) and power the lights.. they are hooked up in parallel with the battery.

Now some of those converters are junk and really need to be upgraded.. Others (For example the Progressive Dynamics 9200 series) are .. Well it just don't get better than a 9200 serries (And by the way When I say it don't get better, I do not mean to imply there are not many just as good, because there are)

One thing all these devices have in common however is a fuse.

'Yours.. is blown. ON the conveter itself, or in the 12 volt section of the power distribution center (If 12 and 120 volt re behind the same door) is/are one or two 30 amp fuses.. If two, side by side, replace both. Do this while NOT plugged into shore power.. Then plug in and see if the lights get brighter and the batteries charge.

Also, post make and model of your converter.. If you can not find the converter try the 12/120 volt distribution panel if it's a combined panel.. On my coach these 3 items (12 volt panel, 120 volt panel and converter) are separate Many have them intergrated into one unit.

Thank you I will post model tonight when I get home.

Trev

despain · 09-08-2011, 09:13 PM

I could not find a model number but here are some pictures. I hope it can be identified

1974 Winnebago Chieftain - iRV2.com RV Photo Gallery

wa8yxm · 09-09-2011, 09:35 AM

The Converter is the box that says "20 amp battery charger"

To the right of the circuit breaker box are 3 self resetting circuit breaker. followed by I think 4 glass fuses size 3-ag diffening amps I'm sure followed by one more self resetting circuit breaker, this last breaker appears to be the "MAIN" 12 volt breaker With shore power off, check for battery voltage on both sides of it.. You may find one side missing power if so it's defective and needs replacement (Any RV or Automotove store should have) if no voltage in either side (Should be same both sides if it's good) then your batteries are either A: Not connected of B Bad Measure as follows.

Battery positive to battery negative
Battery positive to chassis.

Both should give you around 12.6 to 13.6 volts.

If so, then follow the POSITIVE wire till you find a device. This should be your disconnect, measure both sides of it to chassis. and then you need to figure out if it's bad or just in the "Store" position. And if in Store, hot to put it in "USE" (Connected) . You may jumper across it as a temp method.

despain · 09-09-2011, 11:24 AM

Great Thank you we are heading out the the Lake today so I will take my tools with me. and give it a go.

have a great weekend.

Trevor

Quote:

Originally Posted by wa8yxm

The Converter is the box that says "20 amp battery charger"

To the right of the circuit breaker box are 3 self resetting circuit breaker. followed by I think 4 glass fuses size 3-ag diffening amps I'm sure followed by one more self resetting circuit breaker, this last breaker appears to be the "MAIN" 12 volt breaker With shore power off, check for battery voltage on both sides of it.. You may find one side missing power if so it's defective and needs replacement (Any RV or Automotove store should have) if no voltage in either side (Should be same both sides if it's good) then your batteries are either A: Not connected of B Bad Measure as follows.

Battery positive to battery negative
Battery positive to chassis.

Both should give you around 12.6 to 13.6 volts.

If so, then follow the POSITIVE wire till you find a device. This should be your disconnect, measure both sides of it to chassis. and then you need to figure out if it's bad or just in the "Store" position. And if in Store, hot to put it in "USE" (Connected) . You may jumper across it as a temp method.

wa8yxm · 09-09-2011, 01:48 PM

I will point out that if the lights work on 120 volt. That converter is likely doing it's job. So the problem is between that right most breaker (If not the breaker itself) and the batteries.

A common issue is the battery negative cable, this often connects to the chassis and that connection is often corroded and bad.

WHich is why the recommendation to measure battery voltage positive to negative terminal, then positive terminal to chassis. Doing that will find the "Bad ground" .