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Old 09-27-2013, 05:26 PM   #15
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I'm making progress!
I load tested the battery and check for 12v on either side of the "short stop" and then pulled the fuse panel and confirmed 12v going in on the main, then 12v going out from each fuse terminal. I then moved to the thermostat and confirmed 12v going in. I move the thermostat to the "on" position and expected to see 12v going out but got nothing. An examination of the thin wires in the thermostat control revealed an open wire (see pic). So, as a test, I grabbed a spare piece of wire and bypassed the thermostat and the furnace came on. Cool
Now to the fridge: I go out to the access panel and see a box that looks like the control panel, it has wires to a 12v and grnd connection. I pull these, test and find no 12v. I test from positive to grnd wire and also from positive to frame, no 12v. I test continuity between grnd wire and frame and find continuity. So, I THINK this means the 12v has no power to it but the grnd is ok. My current challenge is to trace the 12v wire back to source and all I've been able to do so far is see that it goes behind fridge. I don't see it at the fuse panel. There are no fuses labeled "fridge" and I can't for the life of me figure out where that wire comes from. I'm beginning to think I'll need to pull the fridge to look behind it but that doesn't sound at all fun. Any hints? I'll buy a vowel!
Milt
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Old 09-27-2013, 05:44 PM   #16
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Progress is good.
Any way to run a fused 12v power wire to the fridge to confirm operation ?
If the fridge works from another source, then I'd be tempted to abandon the dead wire and run a fresh one to the fuse panel, check your fridge manual for installation instructions, regarding wire and fuse sizing.
But first pull all the drawers between the fridge and the fuse panel if you haven't already and check for a hidden circuit breaker.
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Old 09-27-2013, 05:49 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Skip426 View Post
Progress is good.
Any way to run a fused 12v power wire to the fridge to confirm operation ?
If the fridge works from another source, then I'd be tempted to abandon the dead wire and run a fresh one to the fuse panel, check your fridge manual for installation instructions, regarding wire and fuse sizing.
But first pull all the drawers between the fridge and the fuse panel if you haven't already and check for a hidden circuit breaker.
OHHH, the HIDDEN fuse or breaker behind the drawers! I like that idea. I'll check that out right now!
I just got off the phone with Northwood Mfg. They make Nash trailers among other things. The person I spoke with (I'm bad with names and can't remember his...) was very helpful and took a lot of time with me. So, he says there could be a fuse labeled "refer" or that the wire could run thru the "vent fan" fuse. I don't see a refer fuse and the vent fans both work so I'm still a bit confused about that wire comes from...
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Old 09-27-2013, 07:51 PM   #18
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Solved!
Let's see if I can describe this in a clear and succinct manner...
First, the untold prequel:
Several days ago I started troubleshooting my furnace, it is sometimes not firing, the fan will run but it was having trouble catching. I had the furnace out of the cabinet for bench testing. It blew two fuses. As part of my troubleshooting I switched out the battery and that's when I shorted positive to frame and my problem that I brought to the forum began.
So, fast forward to today, thanks to help from forum members I traced down and found the loose wire in the thermostat, very cool and many thanks. But the fridge... After reading recent suggestions and talking to technical staff at the manufacturer I went back out to the trailer. I determined that the two fans were fused independently and NOT to the fridge. I noted that the 12v wire at the fridge was grey and, looking at the back of the fuse panel, I saw two grey wires. I counted down from the top to match these two wires the their respective fuses. The first grey wire was an unrelated circuit and the second was in position 10. Wait, I only had 9 positions labeled on the front of the box, what was position 10? Could it be the fridge circuit. I popped a fuse in and, yes, that was it. I then realized WHY there was no fuse there. I'd taken it out earlier when the furnace blew fuses. I mean, it looked like an extra fuse in an unused and unmarked terminal. So, it turns out that I had caused my fridge problem by unwittingly removing the fuse. I also possibly protected the fridge form damage by removing the fuse prior to my arcing accident.
I hope this makes sense. Please ask questions if this is less than clear. I really appreciate the help here.
Milt
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Old 09-27-2013, 08:33 PM   #19
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Nice troubleshooting! Look at how much more you know about your rig! Glad you reported the solution, it will help someone else!
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Old 09-28-2013, 02:41 PM   #20
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Glad your up and running , with minimal $$$ spent.
Next job, if you haven't done it already, mark that fuse.
After that look at the way the rest of the fuses are marked, if any of the markings are un-clear, pull the fuse and see what quits, then mark that fuse accordingly. Do the same with the 110 breakers and any GFICs , you will thank yourself later.
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Old 09-29-2013, 01:26 PM   #21
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That was a disguised blessing because the fridge board is expensive, and the cooling unit that looses its amonia is even more expensive. That same trouble shooting theory works on the water heater.
I found that the Suburbans have 2 separate temp sensors. One for propane and one for the Electric side. Hope you have many happy travels.
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Old 10-08-2013, 03:37 PM   #22
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Great job and thanks for reporting back on your findings. Glad everything is running now.
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