Go Back   iRV2 Forums > TRAVEL TRAILER, 5th WHEEL & TRUCK CAMPER FORUMS > Travel Trailer Discussion
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 12-05-2013, 05:45 AM   #15
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,232
Originally Posted by 323 View Post
marcham - I had no idea there was any braking when the trailer is disconnected? I have moved it with just the hitch, and was able to move one wheel by hand when it was off the ground (which turned out to be a bad idea) I'm thinking my brakes just turn off when not plugged in as it's moved easily.

If the breakaway cable is pulled out of the switch, the battery sends power to the brakes, in case of a "separation" from the tow vehicle.

jesilvas - could I use a regular 9V battery smoke detector? I believe all new ones are also carbon monoxide detectors - or is there something else an LP detector will detect that is different?

You have a 9V batt. smoke detector. And probably a separate CO detector. But the LP detector detects LP. Liquid propane. It is heavier than air, so use the one they have. But if it's an 08, I'd say go ahead and replace it.
In red.

jesilvas is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 12-05-2013, 12:58 PM   #16
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 338
Step 1. Charge the battery.

Step 2. Connect a multi-meter and check the amperage drawn from the battery. Disconnect the cable and clamp red cable of the multimeter to the battery post, then clamp the black end to your battery cable. You should see less than 50mA, if it's greater than that, then you have some stuff turn on, figure out what it is, you can use the breaker to help narrow down which circuit it may be. Also, a power inverter even with nothing plugged into it, but turned on will drain up to 1A depending on how big the inverter is.

gggplaya is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2013, 12:23 PM   #17
Senior Member
Mossy cat's Avatar
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 389
We added a power on/off switch to the battery. Most campers come with it but ours didn't. The display on the radio and the co2 detector ran our battery down. Now we just switch all power off when not in use

Costs $100 to add switch- labor and parts
Mossy cat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2013, 06:46 AM   #18
Senior Member
TDI-Minnie's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,776
If it doesn't hold a charge for more than 2-3 days when disconnected, it's dead. Even new batteries can be bad, especially if they have ever been dropped or impacted.
I had a bad new car battery from an autoparts store a couple years ago. When I returned it, one of the guys was restocking and I watched him dropping new batteries onto the floor from about 6". Knew right away why my battery was "bad".
Manny & Larissa
2013 Winnebago 2301BH-Red
2012 Ram 2500 Megacab HO CTD
TDI-Minnie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2014, 10:56 PM   #19
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Burnaby BC
Posts: 85
Parasitic drain can be amazing. My new TT doesn't have a battery cut-off switch (I will get around to installing one), and I discovered I was losing over 20 amp hours a day. The factory was helpful in supplying tech info, but net result is, big daily drain just sitting there. Everything that has a circuit board draws SOME power, even when not "in use". The problem is under control - I have 2 6v batteries which provide a theoretical 220 amp hours capacity, and a 130 watt solar panel on the roof. During our (coastal BC) winter the panel has kept the batteries at between 80 to 100% full, but am under no illusions that I'll be needed a generator for extended dry camping. And may go to more solar panels. HTH
Nick B is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2014, 02:12 PM   #20
Senior Member
mike.t's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Norcal
Posts: 582
Send a message via AIM to mike.t Send a message via MSN to mike.t Send a message via Yahoo to mike.t
2c Make sure the fridge is not set on auto.
mike.t is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-2014, 07:40 PM   #21
Senior Member
bttravel's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Missouri
Posts: 108
Battery cut-off switch. Solves many a problems like this. I mounted ours in the battery case. It has a removable key of which I have 2 spares just in case. Can always put the cable back on the battery by passing the switch. No dead battery problems since.

Bruce & Sarah, 2016 Keystone Sprinter 319MKS, 2016 Ram 2500HD 6.4L, 1997 Ranger Rebel I/B Jet Bass Boat (not at the same time)
St. Charles, MO.
bttravel is offline   Reply With Quote


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:14 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.