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Elk Archer · 06-07-2019, 05:10 PM

Just purchased a new TT 6 gallon water heater testing it out before next weekend fathers day camping trip. My hot water heater will not ignite, fuses good, It gets gas to the air LP mixer tube. Gets gas through it but does not light. After it does it 3 times It faults out red light in the trailer switch board says fault. Looks like the igniter doesn't even try to light but I hear 1 click as soon as the gas valve opens than the gas stops. This happens 3 times. It's a dometic 6 gallon water heater. It's under warranty but would like to not take it 80 miles to the dealer I bought it from. Any advice?

450Donn · 06-07-2019, 05:17 PM

You have air in the line. Sometimes it can take three or four fails before it lights.

Old-Biscuit · 06-07-2019, 10:29 PM

Spark Electrode SHOULD produce a STRONG Spark repeatedly until Flame lights and proves it lit.....30 second trail for ignition
DC Voltage goes to Spark Electrode and Gas Valve at same time...gas valve only gets DC for 6-8 seconds on each ignition attempt

Spark Electrode
Check the wire connection to transformer on circuit board...clean/tight
Check the wire going into ceramic insulator...if loose/bad connection
Check the spark gap.....too small/too wide no spark (should be 1/8" - 3/16"

When first attempting to use the TT propane system you have to palce a demand on LP Regulator and Establish Flow
Open Propane Service Valve SLOWLY so the Excess Dlow Device is not tripped
Then light off stove top burners...ALL on HIGH...let them burn for few seconds then attempt to light off other propane appliances
The farther the appliance is away from the propane cylinder the more attempts to light will be needed.
System is only 0.4 psi so it can take a bit to establish full flow to all appliances.

1st-tt2018 · 06-08-2019, 05:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Spark Electrode SHOULD produce a STRONG Spark repeatedly until Flame lights and proves it lit.....30 second trail for ignition
DC Voltage goes to Spark Electrode and Gas Valve at same time...gas valve only gets DC for 6-8 seconds on each ignition attempt

Spark Electrode
Check the wire connection to transformer on circuit board...clean/tight
Check the wire going into ceramic insulator...if loose/bad connection
Check the spark gap.....too small/too wide no spark (should be 1/8" - 3/16"

When first attempting to use the TT propane system you have to palce a demand on LP Regulator and Establish Flow
Open Propane Service Valve SLOWLY so the Excess Dlow Device is not tripped
Then light off stove top burners...ALL on HIGH...let them burn for few seconds then attempt to light off other propane appliances
The farther the appliance is away from the propane cylinder the more attempts to light will be needed.
System is only 0.4 psi so it can take a bit to establish full flow to all appliances.

OB I swear you must have this on copy and paste. Another great explanation and one that will fix this for the OP. Old Biscuit for the win

Persistent · 06-09-2019, 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1st-tt2018

OB I swear you must have this on copy and paste. Another great explanation and one that will fix this for the OP. Old Biscuit for the win

I agree.

It is an excellent post. And certainly an good candidate for a solution.

There are other possibilities.
The igniter may not be working. From the OP's description I think this is likely.
The thermocouple may not be working. I think this is less likely since you would have burner ignition followed shortly by shut down.
Both are needed to sustain gas flow.

Elk Archer · 06-10-2019, 07:46 AM

This is great, I will be trying these things today! As of right now I get gas to the unit it worked great at the dealership and worked great while camping for the first 2 days. The 3rd day I saw a fault on the switch panel shut the unit off tried starting it again same thing no ignition. I remember hearing a series of clicks from the igniter trying to spark. Right now there is no clicks only hear the gas valve engage.

blindhanger · 06-11-2019, 06:22 AM

Are you sure the tank is full of water?

Elk Archer · 06-11-2019, 11:06 PM

Yes filled it full ran all of the water faucets toilets and showers than topped the tank off. I've tried it all dealer said being it in. I will say the people in this thread are AWESOME!

Old-Biscuit · 06-11-2019, 11:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Persistent

I agree.

It is an excellent post. And certainly an good candidate for a solution.

There are other possibilities.
The igniter may not be working. From the OP's description I think this is likely.
The thermocouple may not be working. I think this is less likely since you would have burner ignition followed shortly by shut down.
Both are needed to sustain gas flow.

If OP checks the items listed in my first post under Spark Electrode he will discover if it is good or not

No thermocouple used......
Spark Electrode provides the High Voltage Spark to ignite the gas AND is pathway for the 'flame prove' signal via Flame Rectification

No Sparking.......
Check the spark electrode wire connections, ground connection (spark assembly mounting screw) and gap
Caution: Transformer on circuit board -- that thing provides roughly 2000V to spark electrode

swavescatter · 06-12-2019, 06:26 AM

NEW travel trailer? I'm betting the tank itself is still bypassed (winterized). Look behind the panel for your water heater and verify the bypass valve (s) is closed while the fill valves are open.

Dealer winterized my TT even though it was new and never had water in it. Water heater shuts itself down if it gets too hot from lack of water...

Old-Biscuit · 06-12-2019, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by swavescatter

NEW travel trailer? I'm betting the tank itself is still bypassed (winterized). Look behind the panel for your water heater and verify the bypass valve (s) is closed while the fill valves are open.

Dealer winterized my TT even though it was new and never had water in it. Water heater shuts itself down if it gets too hot from lack of water...

Read post #7 & #8

Persistent · 06-12-2019, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

…
No thermocouple used......
Spark Electrode provides the High Voltage Spark to ignite the gas AND is pathway for the 'flame prove' signal via Flame Rectification

This one, I don't understand. Even if spark is present, it does not mean burner is lighted or will light. Are you saying the igniter is the thermal detector determining if the burner is light?

1st-tt2018 · 06-12-2019, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Persistent

This one, I don't understand. Even if spark is present, it does not mean burner is lighted or will light. Are you saying the igniter is the thermal detector determining if the burner is light?

Yes, dual function

swavescatter · 06-12-2019, 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Read post #7 & #8

I filled my water tank and ran the faucets as well, thinking that the water heater tank itself was full. Little did I know the bypass functioned as designed and did not let water enter the heater tank....

Edit - just read a little more closely and it seems the igniter is not functioning. Mine did light, but would go out after a couple minutes.