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Old 01-17-2015, 09:46 PM   #15
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Jet Fuel,
From the numbers you have given, and looking at the GVWR of the 25RLS, you will be real close on your numbers, Don't know about the rear GAWR, you didn't give those numbers. My guess is that the hitch weight will be real close to 1000# when you load the trailer which will put you right at the trucks GVWR, possibly at or over the rear GAWR. As Gordon said, it is just a guess until you hook up, load up and hit the scales.
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Old 01-17-2015, 10:05 PM   #16
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I have the 2014 Tundra Double cab (5.7L) I tow a 26' hybrid tt. Before the Tundra I had a Toyota 4Runner. The 4Runner with it's shorter wheelbase did make it a tad easier backing into sites. But the Tundra with it's stiffer suspension travels much better on the road. We do 95% of our camping at state and federal campgrounds that tend to "sometimes" have tighter roads and sites. with my 2005 (25') and my 2013 (26') with well over 500+ nights camped at the state parks of Ohio, PA. NY and VT. I can call myself very knowledgeable on where I can maneuver my RV.

My Tundra as delivered is rated to tow 9900 lbs. as stated (J2807 SAE. towing standard). I really liked a tt that was in the 30' - 31' range, but might have more of a issue turning it into my driveway. As far as loaded I'm at about 5200 lbs. get about 11 to 12 mpg towing. Stiff headwind 11mpg. / tailwind 12 mpg+ keeping it under 65 mph. Plan to go to Alaska in 2016...

One note: my 2005 (25') hybrid had the wheels more centered on the trailer thus making it very easy to get into tight sites. My 2013 hybrid (26') has the wheels a little more towards the rear of the tt causing the need for room to back in to a site or driveway. I would not call it a issue. Just a little more forethought.
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Old 01-17-2015, 10:23 PM   #17
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When it comes to towing and maneuvering 4' isn't a real game changer, in fact depending on how much of that length is between the hitch ball and axles the extra length might make it easier to work with.

The 26' is well under your ratings, it's gross weight is only 87% of your tow rating, and that's the max. We typically end up about 1,000lbs over dry weight ready for a trip, which puts you at 79%. Go with a good weight distributing hitch and let her ride.
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Old 01-18-2015, 01:32 AM   #18
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I found out there is an RV show going on in my area this weekend. You people are Debby Downers Now I'm scares and will look at smaller units I do not want to get too ambiguous for my first trailer.

I'll look for something in the 24' range and around 500# tongue weight. I want to go with a quality mfr so its Lance, Northwood Nash line and Outdoors RV. I will also get a good WDH setup.

This Lance unit is looking very appealing and might be the one I end up with.

Lance 2285
Lance 2285 Travel Trailer - A dual entry layout, provides a great room and private master suite access.
Floor Length 22'6"
Overall Length 27'0"
Gross Dry Weight 4425 Lbs.
Hitch Dry Weight 500 Lbs.
Axle Weight 3925 Lbs.
Cargo Carrying Capacity 1575 Lbs.
GVWR 6000 Lbs.



Northwood Nash 24M
Northwood Manufacturing: Nash Floorplan
Dry Axle Weight (approx. Lbs.): 4594
Dry Hitch Weight (approx. Lbs.): 467
Net Carrying Capacity: 1939
Gross Dry Weight - Lbs.: 5061
Gross Vehicle Weight (GVWR) - Lbs.: 7000
Exterior Length (approx. w / hitch): 27'3"



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Old 01-18-2015, 01:47 AM   #19
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Another victim of the weight police. Sad.
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Old 01-18-2015, 07:48 AM   #20
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The Nash or the Lance look closer to what your truck is good for.

The Nash is more rugged and would be better for off road camping.

The Lance is very light weight for what you get and well-built from what I've seen, but I've also found them more cramped inside and closer to the road. And they don't have ducted air conditioning.
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Old 01-18-2015, 11:20 AM   #21
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I found out the hard way that the "more" truck you can afford the better. Our previous truck had the specs to pull our previous 24 footer. Coming down a mountain pass about a 6%grade the trailer started to push us a wee bit.We did every thing your suppose to do, gear downed, used the trailer brakes etc. not out of control just scary and unsettling to say the least. Our plan is to travel and RV a lot..and that combination was not the best. With our 1 ton diesel with exhaust brake...we now travel with less worrying and feel very relaxed. Not the best as a daily driver however.
It really depends on how much towing your going to do and your budget. Your set up may do great for very short trips on flat level roads. However, IMHO and as I found out the hard way..the limited factor in towing is your tow vehicle.

Determine your budget, how much traveling you'll going to do,and what type of terrain your towing on....and if your going to get 2 foot-i-tis. Want a bigger trailer in the very near future.
Good luck and you have asked some great questions.
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Old 01-18-2015, 12:36 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jet_Fuel View Post
I found out there is an RV show going on in my area this weekend. You people are Debby Downers Now I'm scares and will look at smaller units I do not want to get too ambiguous for my first trailer.

I'll look for something in the 24' range and around 500# tongue weight. I want to go with a quality mfr so its Lance, Northwood Nash line and Outdoors RV. I will also get a good WDH setup.

This Lance unit is looking very appealing and might be the one I end up with.
Sorry to be taken as negative. I am only working from the numbers and giving you the accepted way to use the numbers. The fact that someone was able to tow the Shuttle in a parade does not mean the truck is acceptable for us to use at highway speeds.

We have no idea of the skills of the driver and how you plan to drive with the unit on the road.

The question is not "Can my truck tow this trailer?" but "Should my truck tow this trailer?" Followed by "Will I tow this trailer with my truck?". Only you can answer that question. Using the numbers will give you the best indicator of the limits you are facing.

If you look at the threads you will see posts from fellows who claim they have no issues when they are overloaded 4000 lbs on the rear axle. There is also a thread where the fellow is trying to find a solution where his toad pushes his MH around when descending grades.

Those of us who believe the lives of our family and those around us deserve that extra margin of safety by staying within the specifications may be labeled as weight police. Attaching a label is the last resort of someone who has no objective way of justifying their position. The label does not change the facts.

I am sure you will find a trailer that will work with your truck to give you the best RV experience, both when camping and while towing it to your preferred locations.

Read the advice from everyone and use the information that you feel the most comfortable with. I very much like the 24M. Would love to have a tub for DW.
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Old 01-18-2015, 01:40 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Gordon Dewald View Post
Attaching a label is the last resort of someone who has no objective way of justifying their position. The label does not change the facts.
Fact is, by the numbers presented here he'll be 13% under his tow rating, 11% under GCWR at worst case scenario, 21% tow rating and 15% GVWR under at what we would call a typical loadout.

Telling folks they basically need to tow a full truck class under their tow rating is unnecessary hand wringing.

We don't know their abilities or training. That's where personal responsibility comes to play.

By the initial data presented he's well within tolerance. That's my justification.
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Old 01-18-2015, 03:05 PM   #24
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Last October I borrowed the same truck to tow our older 24ft no slides Prowler home. Truck did great with that camper, it was a joy to tow with. A few months later I used the same truck to tow a 2006 26ft Palomino with the exact same floor plan that you showed. The truck towed it but I knew it was back there, not nearly as nice a ride as with the 24ft.

Now as for me local camping trips would be ok with that set up but with a lot of long distance trips I think I would find myself not so eager and down the road that can turn into "Well we dont do much camping anymore" type of conversations. BUT that 26ft floor plan sure is nice!!
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Old 01-18-2015, 08:18 PM   #25
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Threads like this are a double edge sword. The posters always want to hear "GO FOR IT" and when people who know numbers give their opinion they get blasted.


When you ask these questions, we do not know your towing skills or knowledge. You will get an answer on the SAFE side. You CAN tow overweight WITH the right knowledge and skill. By how much? Only after doing it and feeling comfortable can that be determined. Is that a risk you want to take buying a trailer?


Maybe more ambiguous answers are necessary, like;
"You are not even going to know it is back there" or,
"You are going to KNOW that is back there" or,
just good old "GOOD LUCK!"

I will answer only to the best of my knowledge.

Overall length isn't a big factor in maneuverability. Distance from hitch to wheels is a bigger factor. It determines where the trailer tracks going forward, and where it pivots going backwards. Some trailers have axles in the middle and some are farther back. If you want to see where the trailer will track behind your truck in a corner, get a tape measure and measure the distance to the trailers wheels from the hitch. Have someone hold that to the hitch and walk an arc to see how far it will track in a curve.

The other thing to consider about overall length is how it catches wind and transfers movement BACK to the tow vehicle. Lighter trucks will feel more pushing from side to side, than heavier trucks with longer trailers. My 04 GMC was 5500 lbs on a scale and my Dodge is 7600 lbs on a scale. I have towed the same trailer with both trucks (27'). I would much rather have my heavier Dodge to pull with. "I KNEW IT WAS BEHIND THE GMC" and "I almost don't know it is behind the Dodge"
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Old 01-18-2015, 09:54 PM   #26
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Light weight, or unloaded weight means nothing. That is unless you plan on going camping without bedding,food, water, propane, battery, and a list of other things that we all seem to need.
Where you tow makes a difference, to me, with how close to the limits you want to live. Flat lands not such a big deal, mountains might be more of an issue for you.
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Old 01-18-2015, 10:28 PM   #27
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A wise man said that with similar construction units a longer trailer will have more air space inside. All the stuff will be the same inside. Therefore much better living area. I find the weight difference I'll be unnoticed due the wind drag that TT creates. The longer unit will maneuver better and the air flow will keep it straight along the route. Get use to side wins and make sure there is plenty on hitch weight.
These trailers need to be loaded to drive properly and the longer they are the more chance of proper weight distribution because there is more chances of moving weight around the unit.
Our 39 ft 5th wheel is 6 ft longer, 2 ft taller and 4000 lbs heavier then the previous unit and I get up to 2 mpg better mileage with it while towing with the same truck. But in heavy side wind its a hard tow, I need to slow down compare to the previous one.
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Old 01-19-2015, 12:13 AM   #28
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I went to the large RV show they had out here at the fairgrounds today. I checked out some 26 footers and they are very nice but I am ok with the 22’ - 24' units. The smaller floorplans will work for me since I’m lacking in truck and skills. I'll play it safe.
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