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08-31-2013, 07:54 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 3
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'89 Prowler propane retrofit?
Hi guys, first post, new member -- looks like a great site! I just got an '89 Fleetwood Prowler 19' TT, and was told by the seller that the propane tanks/valves/regulators need to be replaced since this older type is no longer legal in california. Any advice on most economical way to do this? Can I keep the existing tanks and thread new tops/valves on them? What components really need to be replaced? What year was the cut-off for the newer style tanks in case I can find used ones off another TT? Sorry for all the questions, and thanks in advance for any helpful info!
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09-01-2013, 08:08 AM
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#2
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: HillBilly country, Smokey Mtns
Posts: 4,171
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Federal law requires propane tanks to be updated or replaced every few years with a new valve that prevents overfilling the tank. It costs about as much to update the old tank with new valve as it does to buy a new tank. New 20# tank costs $30 at Lowes. 30# probably costs about $50. #40 is $80 each.
Shop BernzOmatic 20-lb Propane Tank at Lowes.com
I don't know about a state requiring the regulator to be replaced too, but if that's the law various propane regulators are available at Lowes, from $20 to $60 or more. Here's a good one for $30:
Shop Worthington Pro Grade Dual-Stage Propane Tank Regulator at Lowes.com
__________________
Grumpy ole man with over 60 years towing experience. Now my heaviest trailer is a 7'x16' 5,000-pound flatbed utility trailer, my tow vehicle is a 2019 F-150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost SuperCab with Max Tow (1,904 pounds payload capacity).
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09-01-2013, 08:19 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,232
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If you have a cylinder with an old valve, the valve needs replacing and probably the cylinder needs recertification. The certification is per state. Texas is every 5-7 yrs.
Let's see the cylinders, hoses, and regulator. It would probably be safer to replace it all, and then to an LP leak test to see if there is any loss of pressure on the system.
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09-02-2013, 12:04 AM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 3
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Thanks a lot for the info you guys, that helps quite a bit. I'll start acquiring the needed components and getting ready to install them.
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09-02-2013, 12:37 AM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 3
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By the way, is it considered a bad idea to remove the tanks each time I need to refill them? It can be difficult for me to move the trailer at times, and I'm wondering if it will wear out threads or cause problems if I unthread the connectors for every refill.. If so, is there any special hardware/ quick disconnect type fittings that would make this more feasible? Thanks so much for any insight on this.
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09-02-2013, 07:36 AM
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#6
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: HillBilly country, Smokey Mtns
Posts: 4,171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bqc
By the way, is it considered a bad idea to remove the tanks each time I need to refill them?
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No.
Quote:
It can be difficult for me to move the trailer at times, and I'm wondering if it will wear out threads or cause problems if I unthread the connectors for every refill.
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You must unthread the connecter hose at the tank in order to fill the tank, whether you remove the tank or not.
I disconnect the tank and remove the tank from the RV for every refill. My 5er is now over 12 years old and the connector/disconnector theads still works perfect.
Quote:
If so, is there any special hardware/ quick disconnect type fittings that would make this more feasible?
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The key is the hose that goes from the tank to the regulator. The good ones now have a big knurled knob that's easy to turn by hand so you don't need tools. But IIRC, way back when the connector nut was an ordinary brass nut that required a wrench to tighten/untighten that hose at the tank.
For example, notice the big green knob on this hose+regulator:
Shop Bayou Classic 3/8-in 0.5-in Dia x 48-in L High-Output Propane Tank Regulator with Hose at Lowes.com
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09-02-2013, 08:05 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bqc
By the way, is it considered a bad idea to remove the tanks each time I need to refill them? It can be difficult for me to move the trailer at times, and I'm wondering if it will wear out threads or cause problems if I unthread the connectors for every refill.. If so, is there any special hardware/ quick disconnect type fittings that would make this more feasible? Thanks so much for any insight on this.
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You must remove the cylinders to fill them in TX anyway. They must be filled by weight, even though the new valves have floats inside to shut them off automatically.
The ACME threads on the new hoses won't wear out threads. There were designed to be removed all the time.
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