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Old 07-28-2013, 09:18 PM   #15
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What I can't remember, is if that board uses 12V from the furnace or creates it's own within the board from 120V.
I believe it makes it's own from the board since everything I am seeing in the manuals points that direction. My bypass fix has been going for about 30mins and my compressor on voltage is running 107-110 at the outlets and the temp has dropped from 90's to about 75
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Old 07-29-2013, 06:02 AM   #16
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On second thought it may be a furnace problem. This morning it was actually cool enough to check the furnace through the thermostat. I tried setting the thermostat to 90 on heat without the connection I made, waited 30sec and nothing happened. hooked up my connection again and I heard a click, waited 30sec and nothing. the fuse is good to the furnace, so I guess I'll start tracking that down after work today. I figure it's either a loose connection there or the igniter board which is the only electronic circuit there that could be causing no voltage to pass through
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Old 07-29-2013, 06:41 AM   #17
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You are SURE the furnace fuse and all 12V fuses are good? Because I swear that's what I think the issue is.
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Old 07-29-2013, 07:10 AM   #18
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Absolutely sure. I checked them twice and even moved them around to make sure it wasn't due to some defect that wasn't visible
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Old 07-29-2013, 07:45 AM   #19
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makes sense but it was the breaker that was feeding the camper that tripped, not the one in the camper so it should've been problems in the shop instead of the camper right? But camper electrical systems ARE a strange duck that is different from anything I worked on growing up.
Right, the breaker that was feeding the camper, and the shop fridge, and the shop A/C. Had it been the breaker inside the RV (The one feeding JUST the A/C) We would not have this thread. It took all of them together to create the Inductive kick that fried you.

The moral of this is to add a TT-30 circuit to your shop for the RV, dedicated breaker (just one) and outlet, nothing else on it. Or better yet, put in a 50 amp outlet for the RV, that way when (not if) you upgrade,,, all set. 50's take a dual-ganged breaker, 30's a solo breaker.
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Old 07-29-2013, 07:52 AM   #20
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I see. I am looking at adding a junction and outlet for my camper. I have a 100 amp breaker feeding the breaker box in my shop that has a pair of 20 amp breakers. Thinking of running that feed wire through the outlet so there is no loss to the outlet, plenty of current, and still hard fault protection from the main breaker
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:46 PM   #21
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Figured it out! the blower motor on my furnace has a breaker on the motor in the furnace compartment which was tripped. The blower motor is Sierra likely due to wasps and dirt dobblers since I found 4 good sized wasp nests in the furnace compartment
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