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Old 07-28-2013, 04:20 PM   #1
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AC Problem, Stumped

In my mallard camper I checked everything after I got home and it all worked. The AC even worked on the 15amp plug. TO be safe I checked the voltage at the outlets in the trailer while the AC was running to ensure that I wasn't' running voltage low enough to cause issues and I was getting 112-116VAC while running so well within the safe range. Turned it off and went in. A few days later I was going to do some more checking just to see if there was anything I missed before we decide to go camping. Turn the AC on and it runs fine for about 15 mins before flipping a breaker in my shop (Shop Fridge Compressor, and window unit compressor on same circuit kicked in while Camper AC was running). Waited a few minutes turned off the window unit and reset the breaker. While I was in the camper with the AC on I heard a faint pop like a breaker tripping in the camper and the AC went off fan and all. Throughout all this voltage never got below 105v. Turned the AC off and chalked it up to breaker in my shop. Last night I was going to show the camper to some friends and the lights were dim, evidently the battery was dead and I wasn't getting 12v to the lights (while plugged into shore power) THis morning charged the battery and all 12vdc stuff works properly, but AC still doesn't work, NO blower no nothing. Checked all my 12v connections and the converter all read 13.6v. Got my multimeter out checked my 120AC connections and I have 120.0v at the breaker and 119.99 at all the outlets and at AC control box in ceiling. Problem is I have no voltage at all to the thermostat or any of the wires going to it. I know when voltage is applied it all works since whenever I tested them with my drill battery they started right off as they should. I don't think it's the thermostat since I checked voltage between 12v+and Ground and there is no voltage at all. I have 6 wires coming out of the wall into the thermostat: Small red and Small white about 18-20(Control/switch wires I believe)in a brown covering The next four wires are 12ga Yellow(Compressor) Green( High Fan) White connected to Gray on thermostat (low fan) Blue (12vdc-) AC is a Coleman Mach (according to the thermostat which is original) but I don't know the specific model as the book is in my vehicle at the mechanics shop Any Ideas? I apologize for the long post but wanted to get as much info out there to help since I am stumped. Thanks
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Old 07-28-2013, 04:32 PM   #2
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Check all 12V fuses, especially furnace fuse, if the thermostat controls 12V also.
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Old 07-28-2013, 04:36 PM   #3
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Fuses are good, That was the first thing I checked after the breaker. I just checked again to make sure
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Old 07-28-2013, 04:39 PM   #4
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Ok, it's possible that your control board went bad. Reason: some units used 120V in the board and converted it to 12V to use for the thermostat.
Do you have 12V in the ceiling assy.?
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Old 07-28-2013, 04:52 PM   #5
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Ok, it's possible that your control board went bad. Reason: some units used 120V in the board and converted it to 12V to use for the thermostat.
Do you have 12V in the ceiling assy.?
nope, I have .03vdc on the low voltage side. Since everything works and get the desired function when voltage is applied would that not rule out the control board? I since I am applying the voltage to the specific wire am I acting as the control board?
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Old 07-28-2013, 05:14 PM   #6
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I just tried hooking the Compressor (Yellow) and High fan (Green) wires to + side my drill battery and the Ground (Blue) to the - side and the compressor and fan kicked on immediately. I guess that means the control board is toast. Where would I find one of those and how high are they?
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Old 07-28-2013, 05:24 PM   #7
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To your drill battery?
Also, that blue is for furnace.
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Old 07-28-2013, 05:43 PM   #8
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I just tried hooking the Compressor (Yellow) and High fan (Green) wires to + side my drill battery and the Ground (Blue) to the - side and the compressor and fan kicked on immediately. I guess that means the control board is toast. Where would I find one of those and how high are they?
Check the control board if you haven't already some have a 1 to 3 amp fuse on the board itself.
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Old 07-28-2013, 05:59 PM   #9
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Check the control board if you haven't already some have a 1 to 3 amp fuse on the board itself.
Looking at it now, and sadly no fuses. THe board says 8330A733 on it. but evidently that is an obsolete number Coleman 8330-752 looks just like it though, I'm guessing that's the replacement for it.
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Old 07-28-2013, 06:05 PM   #10
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To your drill battery?
Also, that blue is for furnace.
yes, 12v drill battery. I checked the polarity with my multimeter to make sure I don't wire something backwards. doing so pretty much eliminated the fan, motor, capacitor and compressor from the equation, leaving the thermostat and control box as the only other options. According to the drawings blue is ground and white/gray is furnace
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Old 07-28-2013, 06:08 PM   #11
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I can not help you fix it but I might be able to help you understand it.

You said it was likely the fridge and window A/C in the shop all kicked in at one time to trip it (Memories of hollering NO at a Michigan State Trooper as he plugged in something he should not have)

Well that is a lot of INDUCTIVE loads.. When the breaker tripped current was flowing.. It kept flowing, (Current in an inductor likes to keep flowing don't you know.. well perhaps you don't but alas.. It does) and when you have current flowing, with no place to go, Voltages can get very very very very (Thousands of volts) high very quickly.

And pop goes your control board.
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Old 07-28-2013, 06:14 PM   #12
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I can not help you fix it but I might be able to help you understand it.

You said it was likely the fridge and window A/C in the shop all kicked in at one time to trip it (Memories of hollering NO at a Michigan State Trooper as he plugged in something he should not have)

Well that is a lot of INDUCTIVE loads.. When the breaker tripped current was flowing.. It kept flowing, (Current in an inductor likes to keep flowing don't you know.. well perhaps you don't but alas.. It does) and when you have current flowing, with no place to go, Voltages can get very very very very (Thousands of volts) high very quickly.

And pop goes your control board.
makes sense but it was the breaker that was feeding the camper that tripped, not the one in the camper so it should've been problems in the shop instead of the camper right? But camper electrical systems ARE a strange duck that is different from anything I worked on growing up.
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Old 07-28-2013, 08:49 PM   #13
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Gotta be the control board. Thermostat is good. I hooked the +12vdc wire and the ground wire to a fused 12v connection and everything worked. My AC voltage did drop to 105-109 when the compressor was running and 117.9 when the fan only was running. So that tells me that the control board wasn't powering the DC control side. I'll see if my local RV place by chance has one of these in stock so I can install it and use the camper this weekend or order one and pray it arrives on time, or postpone the trip
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Old 07-28-2013, 09:03 PM   #14
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What I can't remember, is if that board uses 12V from the furnace or creates it's own within the board from 120V.
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