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10-12-2015, 07:10 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mcdonough, Ga.
Posts: 5,932
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grassy
2 gallons of non poisonous anti freeze to do my rig. Cheap and guaranteed to do the job. Have seen the compresses air backfire so to speak...and you still have to use anti freeze in the traps, etc..
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That's fine if you park your rig all winter. We use ours off and on all winter long. I also do not use anti freeze in the traps. I took a C B antenna base, removed the tip of a air blow gun, installed the base on the blow gun, reinstalled the tip. I place the base over the drain, mash the trigger, and blow out the p trap. As I said previously, We used air on fifty to one hundred motorhomes for fifteen years with zero freezing. That's about ten thousand coach's with no freezing lines.
__________________
1998 Pace Arrow 35 ft. F53 Ford V10 2014 Honda CRV toad
32 years mechanic at Delta Air Lines 15 year motorhome service manager. 3 popups....2 travel trailers....5 motorhomes....loved them all.
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10-12-2015, 07:22 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,580
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred1609
I only blow out the lines. I used AF once DW didn't like the odor it left and the time it took to get rid of it (I'm nose blind). We have not had an issue yet.
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Drain the air compressor tank and show the DW the wonderful stuff you are using in place of anti-freeze.
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10-12-2015, 07:42 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 711
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yup..we do park all winter..
..and we never use the clear water tank for drinking water...
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2010 Northwood Arctic Fox 29-5T
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10-12-2015, 09:03 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Nowhere, now here. Freedom!
Posts: 4,602
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lynnmor
Drain the air compressor tank and show the DW the wonderful stuff you are using in place of anti-freeze.
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There's nothing wrong with getting more iron in the blood once in a while.
__________________
ORV 19B Full Timer from '15 to '20, '14 Ram 2500 Diesel and a GSD. Vancouver, WA
de K7NOL 146.52Mhz Safety? (CLICK ME!)
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10-13-2015, 07:37 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mcdonough, Ga.
Posts: 5,932
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lynnmor
Drain the air compressor tank and show the DW the wonderful stuff you are using in place of anti-freeze.
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I use a six inch bronze (sic?) air filter on my air line. I believe you are coating every inch of your water lines with man made chemicals. If you like your chemicals fine. I prefer my air.
__________________
1998 Pace Arrow 35 ft. F53 Ford V10 2014 Honda CRV toad
32 years mechanic at Delta Air Lines 15 year motorhome service manager. 3 popups....2 travel trailers....5 motorhomes....loved them all.
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10-13-2015, 10:35 PM
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#20
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Mid-Missouri
Posts: 67
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It's always entertaining about this time every year when the "winterizing" debate starts.
I've used the compressed air method, and the antifreeze method and both worked fine, but for ease of winterizing and de-winterizing the air method does it for me. In fact on my current rig, the owners manual suggests either or.
So I say... do what works for you and what makes you feel the most confident.
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10-15-2015, 08:22 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 117
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Why not both?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ga traveler
That's fine if you park your rig all winter. We use ours off and on all winter long. I also do not use anti freeze in the traps. I took a C B antenna base, removed the tip of a air blow gun, installed the base on the blow gun, reinstalled the tip. I place the base over the drain, mash the trigger, and blow out the p trap. As I said previously, We used air on fifty to one hundred motorhomes for fifteen years with zero freezing. That's about ten thousand coach's with no freezing lines.
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Seems to me that having the traps empty would allow some funky smells from the holding tank(s) to enter into the living area. What are we talking about here a dollars worth of pink stuff down the traps? Cheap insurance if you ask me. Anyway.... I use a compressor then the pink stuff.
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10-19-2015, 08:05 PM
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#22
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 8
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In P-traps you could use, if you wanted, windshield fluid (the blue stuff). You can pick it up cheap and it's in the drain lines, no drinking it.
__________________
Marc and Evon
Central Iowa
2015 Keystone Passport Ultra Lite 23RB
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10-20-2015, 08:01 PM
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#23
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Member
Heartland RV Club
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 49
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I know this is awfully old-fashioned, but a rubber plunger does a really good job of pushing the water out of a trap before putting the pink stuff in - and no adapter needed for the air line.
__________________
2017 F350 SC, 6.7 PS 4x4 DRW
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10-20-2015, 08:22 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 8,055
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FWIW I give the lines a quick blow out because the antifreeze we get these days is already mixed with water. I do not think more is good for it. Then I pump in the pink and make sure all valves get some through them so the closed spaces in the valve bodies get antifreeze. The traps have enough by the time I am done. In the spring I flush the lines then sanitize the water system with bleach. The bleach clears out the residual taste.
As far as chemicals go I am more concerned with oil from the compressor than I am with residual antifreeze. The same stuff is in all kinds of food products to keep things like salt from caking or packaged cupcakes moist for two examples. There are many, many more. ;-)
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10-21-2015, 06:59 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 3,722
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Until last year I was an advocate of just draining then putting in a gallon or so of the pink stuff. I decided that I would try the blow out then install the pink stuff. I was surprised as to how much water came out after just a drain - water that (at least this 5er) would have diluted the pink stuff and maybe not protected the lines fully - and last year was dang cold here on the Northeast's tundra. This week may be the week if the rain holds off and provided I can drag the 30 gallon compressor up the hill as my Porter-Cable pancake nailer unit just doesn't have enough volume.
Oh and for the OP - a little pancake unit may or may not do your RV nor possibly not even a nailer. That nailer will need a certain cfm* output for operation which will be on the mfr's box. Harbor Freight have some pretty inexpensive compressors that will be fine for occasional tho not pro level use
* Cubic feet/minute
__________________
Dave W
2011 Ford F250 6.7 Lariat CCLB, Gone but not forgotten
2014 Montana High Country 343RL (sold it!)
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