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Old 10-07-2015, 08:52 PM   #1
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Air compressor for winterizing

I'm thinking about doing my own winterizing this year. I'm also planning to resurface my deck at home. Each job raises the possibility of purchasing an air compressor. But I know very little about air compressors. Can one air compressor be powerful enough to drive nails but also be dialed back to blow out water lines in my TT?

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Old 10-07-2015, 09:18 PM   #2
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Yup, the compressor has a regulator to set the desired pressure. I tried a 2 gal compressor for winterizing, it's too small. Went to the 20 gal and it was too big for my shop and to carry to my storage location. I settled on a bostitch 6 gal and it was easy to throwing the truck, enough capacity for winterizing the trailer and enough pressure for my finish nail guns. However, decking nailers are a whole different animal. Make sure and size the compressor accordingly.

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Old 10-07-2015, 09:21 PM   #3
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You don't need more than about 50-60 psi to blow out the lines, but you do need a pretty good volume.
The other problem with using air is that it can "blow through" the water in low spots, then the water comes back. I prefer the potable antifreeze, although I usually don't bother the winterize and just keep heat in the rig since it's right beside the house.
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Old 10-07-2015, 09:23 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by wannabervin View Post
I'm thinking about doing my own winterizing this year. I'm also planning to resurface my deck at home. Each job raises the possibility of purchasing an air compressor. But I know very little about air compressors. Can one air compressor be powerful enough to drive nails but also be dialed back to blow out water lines in my TT?
Check the reply over in the other forum!
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Old 10-07-2015, 09:53 PM   #5
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I'm sorry, but I have no reason on my fifth wheel to blow out the water lines.
With caps on the lowest point in the water system, I just pop the caps, open the faucets and let gravity work. I have to remember to first clear the toilet of water pressure. And I leave all the faucets open--including the outside shower and outside kitchen sink.

But step #1 is always cutting off the electric element to the hot water heater. And I then drain the hot water heater. I also put a piece of duck tape on the hot water heater circuit breaker and switch so it's not turned on without water filling in the spring.
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Old 10-08-2015, 07:29 AM   #6
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You'll still want to use the antifreeze for the P traps/drains.
Also, I'm not sure how well the blown air purges the water pump. Seems like that would be bypassed by the air coming in the city connection.
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Old 10-08-2015, 07:48 AM   #7
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Blow out is the only sure way to eliminate standing water. My 135 PSI pancake compressor works just fine. Over the years I have found 20-25 PSI seems to be the perfect pressure. Blowing out the lines is all I used to do. Now with a onboard washer I pump antifreeze thru the lines to ensure the washers systems are safe.
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Old 10-08-2015, 08:04 AM   #8
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Air compressor for winterizing

I would only bypass hot water heater and pull plug buy a winterization kit for for water pump if your TT doesn't have one and suck the antifreeze through the pump no need to blow your lines out. If your air compressor doesn't have a water separator you will never get it all out the lines might be fine but your faucets might crack or Destroy the seals and leak in the spring
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Old 10-11-2015, 01:41 PM   #9
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As stated above one compressor can do all. I just use a high pressure bike pump to blow out my lines after draining all water out at low point drains. Next I run RV Antifreeze thru pump into all lines,traps and toilet. WWR
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Old 10-11-2015, 01:46 PM   #10
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I only blow out the lines. I used AF once DW didn't like the odor it left and the time it took to get rid of it (I'm nose blind). We have not had an issue yet.
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Old 10-11-2015, 01:50 PM   #11
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Why blow out the lines when my owners manual days to use RV anti freeze. I can 'see' pink anti freeze coming thru the faucets. I know when I see the pink stuff it is good. Can you 'see' what is going on when you blow out the lines? Just saying.
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Old 10-11-2015, 02:00 PM   #12
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I am a big fan of blowing out water lines. When I took over as service manager, we were ordering a pallet of antifreeze for winterizing our motorhomes. I had been blowing out my motorhomes water lines for 19 years and only had a toilet line freeze in 19 years.( I forgot to flush the toilet.) I talked the lot owner into blowing out the water lines and he reluctantly agreed. (After reminding me it would be my a$$ if we had any frozen lines.) In fifteen years we had no frozen lines. There is no difference in water or air pressure. Use your cheap water pressure regulator. It will keep the pressure at 45 or 55 psi. (according to which regulator you have.) Make sure you flush the toilet, run the washer, and drain the ice maker. The water pump will run dry if you run it after all water is drained from the tank.
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Old 10-11-2015, 05:46 PM   #13
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To answer your QUESTION: MANY air compressors come with a regulator, it can be set to 5 PSI, or 100 PSI or more (Depending on the compressor) up to the max pressure of the unit.

For driving nails you likely need 70-90 PSI
For blowing out water lines 50 is about right

And the answer to your question is a resounding YES.
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Old 10-11-2015, 05:50 PM   #14
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2 gallons of non poisonous anti freeze to do my rig. Cheap and guaranteed to do the job. Have seen the compresses air backfire so to speak...and you still have to use anti freeze in the traps, etc..

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compressor, winter

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