Go Back   iRV2 Forums > TRAVEL TRAILER, 5th WHEEL & TRUCK CAMPER FORUMS > Travel Trailer Discussion
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 02-24-2013, 10:38 AM   #1
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 3
Another newbie here

After winterizing ( I drained and added a quart or so of
RV antifreeze) will my hot water tank have a foul smell?
My friend told me he had done this and his smelled for a year.
Just wondering what's in store for me. Thanks

racefan_8_3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 02-25-2013, 02:45 AM   #2
Senior Member
94-Newmar's Avatar
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,043
Is it an atwood or suburban water heater? Is it a unit that can use either 110VAC or propane to heat? When winterizing did you remove the plastic plug at the bottom to drain the tank? Is the odor a rotten egg smell? The RV antifreeze (red stuff) won't cause a foul odor - I suspect you didn't empty the heater tank and the residual water has gone foul.

94-Newmar Kountry Star 40-KSDP
Spartan/Cummins 8.3C-300HP/Allison 3060 WTEC-II/25yr RV Tech RVIA Certified/Onan-Cummins Certified
94-Newmar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2013, 07:06 AM   #3
Senior Member
Caveman CBB's Avatar
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Storden,MN
Posts: 672
You should be able to use a bleach mixture in the spring to sanitize the system and get rid if any fowl orders.
Caveman CBB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2013, 07:07 AM   #4
Senior Member
Caveman CBB's Avatar
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Storden,MN
Posts: 672
Check out this thread the directions on how to do it are in here:

Getting Ready for spring.
Caveman CBB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2013, 07:38 AM   #5
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 3
Being new this i may have taken unnecessary steps. I took the plug out to drain, then added RV
Antifreeze. In hind sight I thought, dummy, no water it can't freeze! But anyway it runs on 110v or propane. Thanks for the help on getting rid of the odor if I get any.
racefan_8_3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2013, 08:00 AM   #6
Senior Member
sdennislee's Avatar

Monaco Owners Club
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,652
In the spring leave the plug out and do your best to flush the antifreeze from the hot water heater otherwise you will have traces of it in your hot water for some time to come.

Next year drain the hot water heater and let it go at that, no need to freeze protect it.
US Navy Vet, Liberty Tree Member of Oath Keepers, NRA & VFW Life Member, Alaska EMT.
2009 Safari Cheetah 40 SKQ
2009 Winnebago Chalet 231CR
sdennislee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2013, 12:17 PM   #7
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Anacortes, WA (Stick & Brick)
Posts: 2,639
There should be a hand valve (maybe two depending on the system design) that allows you to bypass the water heater before you put antifreeze in the plumbing.

Personally, I use the air blow through method of removing the water from the plumbing, and the only places I put the pink stuff are in the toilet and the P-traps.

My sequence is to drain the water heater and the potable water tank then run the Shurflo until no more water comes out of the outside shower (the lowest point) of the water system. I then do the by-pass valves on the water heater, hook up my compressor to the city water inlet, set its output pressure to around 35 psi, then go around and open each of the faucets in turn until no more water blows out. I then flush the toilet and open the outside shower again to make sure there's no more water on board. The it's time for the pink stuff.

We don't get really hard freezes here. It's rare for daytime highs to be below freezing and I don't think weve had more than maybe 10 overnights lower than 25F this year.
Frank Damp -Anacortes, WA,(DW- Eileen)
ex-pat Brits (1968) and ex-RVers.
frankdamp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2013, 09:18 AM   #8
Moderator Emeritus
SmokeyWren's Avatar

Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Midland County, Texas
Posts: 3,580
You should NEVER allow RV antifreeze to go into the water heater. There is a bypass valve near the water heater that you should set so liquid from the fresh water tank will bypass the water heater.

You can either completely drain the plumbing system and maybe blow it out as Frank mentioned, or you can run RV antifreeze throughout the plumbing system to prevent freeze-up. If you do a good job of draining the system, there won't be enough water left in it to freeze. Or if you do a good job of winterizing the plumbing system, it shouldn't freeze. I usually run the RV antifreeze with the following steps:

A good job of winterizing involves:

1] Drain all the water drains under the trailer, including the fresh water tank and the water heater. Open all faucets and flush the potty so any water in the lines will drain. Then drain the grey and black water tanks. Last step of draining is to close all the drain valves.

2] Stop water from flowing through the water heater. There should be a bypass valve near the water heater to do this.

3. Pour fresh RV antifreeze into the fresh water tank. Mine requires at least two gallons to have enough to do the next step without pumping air.

4. Close all the faucets. Turn on the water pump. Run each faucet (both hot and cold valves) until you see the pink antifreeze come out. Include the bathtub/shower valves. Flush the pottie until you see the pink antifreeze come out into the comode.

De-winterizing includes draining and flushing the fresh water tank and filling it with fresh water. Run all the faucets and pottie until the water runs clear. The last step is to change the bypass valve near the water heater so fresh water will flow through the water heater.

Yes, the above is a copy from another post I made a few minutes ago, in case you don't read all the threads in this forum.
Grumpy ole man with over 50 years towing experience. Now my heaviest trailer is a 7,000-pound enclosed cargo trailer, RV is a 5,600 pound Skyline Nomad Joey 196S, and my tow vehicle is a 2012 F-150 3.5L EcoBoost SuperCrew.
SmokeyWren is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2013, 03:29 PM   #9
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 3
Thanks to everyone for the help/ advice. I'm learning more everyday. Even though sometimes its the hard way. I'm sure that I'll still make a few mistakes along the way, but with the help of this forum maybe it will be a few less. Thanks again.

racefan_8_3 is offline   Reply With Quote


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:29 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.