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Old 07-23-2015, 05:58 PM   #15
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Anyone who likes the clamps referenced above at $20 plus should love these.

Super-Strut Channel Beam Clamp, Gold U501 | Zoro.com

Also available at Home Depot and Lowes for less than $3, I found them while buying some "super strut" beams at Lowes. They are plenty big enough the beam size in the ad is a little mis-leading.

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Old 07-23-2015, 06:18 PM   #16
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This is Amazon.com: NSA RV Products D-R-R Red De-Rattler: Automotive what I use and it seems to work pretty well. My other was a cheapo pair, one broke.

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Old 07-24-2015, 08:09 PM   #17
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Maybe I'm crazy but I simply put a wrap of duct tape around the ball mount before inserting into the hitch receiver.
No rattle and no wear.

New duct tape every so often.
This has worked for many years.
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Old 07-24-2015, 09:22 PM   #18
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I as well was concerned about receiver hitch rattle noise and wear, and began reviewing all the different options available.

Although some folks seem to endorse drilling holes in a receiver tube and weld nuts to the tube so bolts can be inserted and tightened against the ball mount shank, I would NEVER do that due to liability issues associated with unauthorized modifications to a component that sees a lot of stress and strain when towing.

I have purchased and used the Roadmaster 061 Quiet Hitch (Amazon @ $27), for pulling a my car with my RV and really like how simple it is, and in addition, it has totally eliminated the movement I was experiencing between my receiver hitch tube and the ball mount shank. As a result of how well it worked with the RV, I purchased another one to use whenever I pull a trailer with my SUV vehicles.

Hope this helps in your venture to quit the noise and wear in your hitch assembly.

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Old 07-24-2015, 10:04 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by TDI-Minnie View Post
Maybe I'm crazy but I simply put a wrap of duct tape around the ball mount before inserting into the hitch receiver.
No rattle and no wear.

New duct tape every so often.
This has worked for many years.
I don't think the wear will ever gt to the point that it's dangerous, but more noisy yes. Iv'e used tape also with great results. I tried another trick and that was silicone sealer to fill the voids. Works very well but if you frequently remove your hitch, it could make it difficult.

Last resort was/is a guaranteed fix.
With a MIG welder, I welded a bead along the inserted length and center of the ball mount insert bar, forward and aft of the pin hole on the sides, and the full inserted length on the top only with two parallel rows of weld bead.

The purpose of two rows on top is to remove any and all twisting movement of the bar.

The welds were then adjusted by way of grinder to attain the proper fit. This took out all of the rattle and never had another problem for years after the fix.

This fix is way less costly than replacing parts, and the weld is now acting as a wear pad for future adjustments, that you will most likely never need.

Do not weld beads on the bottom of the slide in bar, this is where most of your load is concentrated and it needs the full flat surface in support of that weight.

The welds are actually harder than the other areas of metal on your bar after it cools. They will not wear very much in use, and can easily be built up more at any time if ever needed.

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