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Old 02-02-2007, 09:59 AM   #1
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I just had a complete brake job done on both axles and the brakes don't seem to be grabbing like they were before. Before the new brakes I was able to turn up the controller and lock the brakes, but now I cannot. I assume the brakes and drums will need to be broke in before I can expect normal braking performance?
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Old 02-02-2007, 09:59 AM   #2
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I just had a complete brake job done on both axles and the brakes don't seem to be grabbing like they were before. Before the new brakes I was able to turn up the controller and lock the brakes, but now I cannot. I assume the brakes and drums will need to be broke in before I can expect normal braking performance?
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Old 02-05-2007, 08:53 AM   #3
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How did you adjust the new brakes??
The proper sequence is to adjust until the wheel locks, then back off 10 to 12 clicks.
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Old 02-05-2007, 07:05 PM   #4
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A local shop did the work for me. They did make some adjustments for me in the parking lot, but I could never get them to lockup...
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Old 02-06-2007, 07:23 PM   #5
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you should not be able to lock the trailer brakes while on pavement. However in gravel you should be able to cause a skid. A skidding trailer on pavement is very dangerous and could lead to a tip over.
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Old 04-12-2007, 12:26 PM   #6
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Believe it or not, I am still having issues with the trailer brake work I had done. Both axles and rims on the Driver side are running very hot, while the right side axles are cool to the touch. Do I just need to have these idiots back off the adjustment on my brakes? I don't have a clue, hence the reason I took it to them in the first place.
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Old 04-14-2007, 09:30 PM   #7
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It really sounds like you got some shoddy work done there. Like the brakes on the driver side are dragging and the other side is not tight enough. I am not sure I would go back to that shop, however they do owe you a real good brake job - also makes me wonder about how well they serviced your hubs too.

If you are not already a member - take a look at the forum at www.afnash.com we are a friendly bunch of AF and Nash owners from around the states.
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Old 04-17-2007, 05:10 PM   #8
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Jeff its poss that they changed some parts that are right or left side only and put them on the wrong side or its not adjusted correctly ! FYI compleat backing plates with ALL new hardware is only like 40.00 a wheel minus the break drum , do play around with replaceing just pieces do everything.

if its not to late buy the parts from these guys and bring it to a car guy that will work on it for you !

http://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=cata...=4331&categoryID=149
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Old 05-09-2007, 09:46 PM   #9
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Here's a couple of links I thought you might like.

Pull down "service information" and select complete manual...

Dexter's literature

You can also download Al-Ko's owner's manual here.

http://www.al-kousa.com/index.htm
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Old 05-13-2007, 01:02 PM   #10
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I had a similar problem after I had some work done on my HH II brakes. One drum constantly ran HOT (even after backing off the adjustment a few clicks). The axle/hub temperature was comparable to the other three as measured with my infrared thermometer so I knew that it was the brakes and not the bearings. The shop that did the work said NOT to worry about it, that the bearing grease was good for 600 degrees! I KNEW that that was BS! Scratch that shop from my list for good.

I then went to another shop, after I explained my problem the mechanic proceeded immediately to pull that brake drum. When he manually moved the brake actuator arm to spread the shoes (in the fwd and reverse apply directions) it would "stick" and not release! This was causing the brakes to drag until I hit a bump etc when the shock would make them release. He pulled the shoes, springs etc, removed the actuator arm, polished the shaft and applied some high temperature anti-seize lubricant to the pivot. Then when reassembling the brakes he also applied a small amount of the anti-seize lubricant to the "cam" that spreads the shoes.

I then went for a test drive, VIOLA! That drum temperature was about the same as the others. Needless to say when I returned I had him disassemble the other three brake assemblies, clean and lubricate them with the high temperature anti-seize grease.

His comment was that most shops will only replace/adjust the brakes and NOT check the actuator arm/brake assemblies for freedom of movement.

He just made another satisfied customer!

Maybe this will help you.

Richard
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Old 05-14-2007, 06:17 AM   #11
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WE had a RV repair here in New Bern that did good work but sold out to a marine dealer. I have since taken our fiver to two different RV dealer with not so hot service at either of them. There is one more dealer down in Morehead City but he has motor homes so I am not sure how it will go down there.
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Old 06-11-2007, 12:22 PM   #12
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The saga continues... Les Schwab is now going to replace the brakes on the left side. They just can't seem to get the brakes adjusted correctly, the left side hubs and bolts are way hot and the right side is not even warm. When braking I notice the trailer kicking to one side as well. It shouldn't be this hard, right? I am stuck making local trips until they get this fixed! Aghhh!!
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Old 06-11-2007, 12:58 PM   #13
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Jeff

I would recommend that you request that the shop remove the brake springs, brake shoe retainer spring clips and springs, AND the actuator arm, i.e. remove everything down to the bare backing plate. Then polish the actuator shaft, clean the bushing and apply a little "high temperature anti-seize" lubricant. When assembling the actuator arm verify that it moves "freely" with no binding.

After the whole assembly has been re-assembled with a little lubricant at the wear points, MANUALLY move the actuator arm from the forward to the rear brake apply position and verify that everything is "free", not sticking or binding and returns to the "not apply" position freely.

See my previous post in this section for a similar problem that I had last summer. I think that your problem is just like mine, the actuator arm and/or the whole brake assembly is "sticking" in the apply position causing the brakes shoes to drag.

Let us know what is found and what the solution was.

Richard
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Old 06-11-2007, 01:12 PM   #14
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I actually showed your post to the Manager, I will certainly show him your follow up post as well. Thank you very much!
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