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Old 10-05-2014, 08:58 PM   #1
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Bearing Races

I know bearings have been discussed extensively. Every discussion I have ever read indicated that when a bearing is changed the race should also be changed. (I think this came up within the past couple months)

I also read that a brass drift punch (I think I saw this on Etrailer.com) is the correct tool to get the old race out and put the new one in.

Tried it this weekend and destroyed the brass drift punch and the race did not budge. Worse, the slivers of the brass punch that came off were inside the hub.

My questions for the forum:
1)do you always replace the race when replacing the bearings?
2)how do you get the races out? There was hardly any room to work with on the old race (ie, just a very small bit (maybe 1 or 1.5 mm exposed)
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Old 10-05-2014, 09:26 PM   #2
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See if this link work for you...

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f50/outdo...es-213144.html

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Old 10-05-2014, 10:13 PM   #3
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Thanks, I followed that one closely....senior moments again...
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Old 10-05-2014, 10:32 PM   #4
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Brass is too soft, as you've found.

A hard blunt punch, long enough to get to the other side of the drum comfortably, cover the open area with a rag, then hit it on alternating sides.

You can get a race and seal installer at parts stores for cheap, easiest best way to driven the races and seals in.
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Old 10-15-2014, 05:58 AM   #5
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Use the straight part of a crow bar and a hammer. They usually pop right out after a good whack.

You should always replace the race when putting in new bearings. I have left the old race in when doing my equipment trailer, but I would not take the chance on a camper that goes hundreds of miles from home
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Old 10-15-2014, 08:31 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjlakatos View Post
I know bearings have been discussed extensively. Every discussion I have ever read indicated that when a bearing is changed the race should also be changed. (I think this came up within the past couple months)

I also read that a brass drift punch (I think I saw this on Etrailer.com) is the correct tool to get the old race out and put the new one in.

Tried it this weekend and destroyed the brass drift punch and the race did not budge. Worse, the slivers of the brass punch that came off were inside the hub.

My questions for the forum:
1)do you always replace the race when replacing the bearings?
2)how do you get the races out? There was hardly any room to work with on the old race (ie, just a very small bit (maybe 1 or 1.5 mm exposed)

Where you replacing the brakes also or just the bearings? It is important when you have your brake drum off to check the armature plate for any groves. If you replace the brakes and the armature plate has groves in it the magnet will not have a true surfaces to contact. No need to replace races when a new complete drum cost about $35.00. I am currently doing some floor repair on my 2007 Adirondack 27FK . When I am done with that project I will be switching from electric brakes to electric over hydraulic disc brakes. They provide a 50% reduction in stopping distance and are cheaper to maintain.
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Old 10-15-2014, 10:00 AM   #7
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These were worth every penny when i did mne . harborfreight.com/10-piece-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-95853.html
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Old 10-15-2014, 10:42 AM   #8
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race

S0, who won?
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Old 10-15-2014, 03:53 PM   #9
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These were worth every penny when i did mne . harborfreight.com/10-piece-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-95853.html
One Stop Auto Parts has these in their loaner inventory. They don't charge you to use it. You just pay a refundable deposit and bring it back in the same condition. I think O' Reilly Auto parts also has them.
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Old 10-15-2014, 04:32 PM   #10
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Another way to remove a race is to run a weld bead in the center of the race. It will fall out.
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