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Old 09-08-2014, 06:55 PM   #15
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Take the tires back and either exchange for a different brand or get your money back. I run Michelin's on my F250 and they are as stable as the proverbial rock. It's will probably end up as a tire or suspension problem. Seems like new tires resulted in new problems.
There are 100's of thousands of F250's out there without a track bar. Better to solve the problem than to add an accessory to mask the problem.
Take the truck to a Ford dealer to get their opinion. I prefer to do my own work but they should be able to pinpoint the problem quickly. A specialty suspension shop would also be a good resource.
Good luck!
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Old 09-08-2014, 07:47 PM   #16
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The very first thing you need to do is weigh your trailer...both the total weight and the tongue weight.

Travel trailers must have around 12% to 15% of the trailer's total weight on the tongue. It's just the design of the system that requires that. Make sure your trailer is full of everything you would normally have in it when you hit the road. It may be just a simple matter of not having sufficient tongue weight. Redistributing things in the trailer may be all you need to do.

Another thing to do is weigh your truck (with the trailer attached) and then go to the tire mfg'ers web site and check the weight/pressure guide that they provide. This will tell you exactly how much pressure you need to run in your tires.

You may not have the Dual Cam set up right to insure the least amount of weight being removed from your front axle. Less weight there can effect the steering causing the trailer to sway.

As for your question, the "best" has already been listed: Hensley, Pro Pride, and Pull Right are definitely the best.

BTW, the dual cam unit is also a "friction" device...just a different design.

Good luck

Ron
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Old 09-09-2014, 05:45 AM   #17
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I have to say that I have read a lot of posts on the hitch versus proper rig setup and config debate and I see almost all of the sway issues that were fixed were due to changing the hitch to a Hensley or Propride. This tells me that when you have a setup that isn't quite on the mark you can cheat by paying a bit more for your hitch to make it work. Having said that I do not know the dangers in suppressing the sway possibly caused by improper ratio of truck and trailer versus just plain old hitch not doing the right job so I leave that to the guys who do the math to debate. I can only state that in all the time I have used my same rig with the Eazlift I almost wrecked out and killed my Family when a slight breeze hit the trailer and started the white knuckle ride from hell when I was doing only 35 mph and it was a clear day versus the Hensley Arrow where I pull my trailer in the dead of winter between the dealer and the storage facility like theres nothing behind me to pulling from jersey to FW disney and back with only my bathroom door popping open from the bumps. I am left wondering, Is my truck not supposed to pull a trailer or is it just a design flaw that Nissan did not consider or care about that the hitch corrected? Ah, I don't know but my rig works and its safe so I hope to get one of two more trips in before dumping my rig in ol yard for the winter.....
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Old 09-09-2014, 09:43 AM   #18
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Again, with an Eaz-Lift set up it wasn't too bad with the older tires. I would think if my set up was incorrect, it would've been bad prior to putting new tires on it. Everything I've done for the past two years has been the same, where I put my Harley, whether I take it or not, all that stuff. The only time it became a major job to tow the trailer was once I put new tires on. That's why I bought the Reese with the cam friction style on it. And even the tires were the same as the old ones, just new. Anyway, I appreciate all the advice. Maybe I just need to do a cross country trip with my truck, then the tires will be worn enough that it won't cause any more issues!
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Old 09-09-2014, 01:11 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lanerd View Post
The very first thing you need to do is weigh your trailer...both the total weight and the tongue weight.

Travel trailers must have around 12% to 15% of the trailer's total weight on the tongue. It's just the design of the system that requires that. Make sure your trailer is full of everything you would normally have in it when you hit the road. It may be just a simple matter of not having sufficient tongue weight. Redistributing things in the trailer may be all you need to do.

Another thing to do is weigh your truck (with the trailer attached) and then go to the tire mfg'ers web site and check the weight/pressure guide that they provide. This will tell you exactly how much pressure you need to run in your tires.

You may not have the Dual Cam set up right to insure the least amount of weight being removed from your front axle. Less weight there can effect the steering causing the trailer to sway.

As for your question, the "best" has already been listed: Hensley, Pro Pride, and Pull Right are definitely the best.

BTW, the dual cam unit is also a "friction" device...just a different design.

Good luck

Ron
I believe that the Equal-i-zer is a friction setup as well.
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Old 09-09-2014, 01:40 PM   #20
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Interesting how everyone is ready to spend big bucks for remedies the reduce sway, a condition most usually caused by incorrect weight distribution. At best, all the suggested equipment will help mask the issue, UNTIL a semi, a bump, a sudden maneuver, will overcome the dampening hardware and send you into an uncontrollable oscillation that will cause you to lose control of both vehicles!

A stock Ford F-250 should be able to handle a pretty good sized trailer. If yours isn't handling it safely, it points to something wrong. I would start with the simple things before spending money on new hitches, suspension parts, etc. JMHO
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Old 09-09-2014, 04:22 PM   #21
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Couple of thoughts on your comments:
1. Big bucks is very relative. More than another style of hitch? Yes. But compared to cost of TT +TV, relatively minor.
2. I do think there are correctable causes of sway, but based on how hard they are to find and fix in some cases, there has to be a place for a hitch that provides the well documented benefits of a Pro pride or Hensley.
3. Propride and Hensley don't have dampening hardware. Your example situation may be applicable to other hitch types, but not to these.
4. People seem very willing to share when they think they've been "taken advantage of", or over-spent on something (mismatched price vs performance ratio). I'm just not seeing anyone make these kind of " I wish I hadn't bought that thing" comments about these two hitches.
Hope this makes some degree of sense. Don't want to sound like a homer for propride, just sharing another perspective that might be beneficial to the OP.
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Old 09-09-2014, 06:17 PM   #22
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One other thought occurred to me. My toy hauler is a trip axel. There is maybe 1/2" between the tires & the fender. Sometimes they rub on the drivers side & sometimes they rub on the passenger side. That's about 1" of lateral movement. Also, there will be times when the center axel is closer to the front axel & other times it's closer to the rear axel. Is this normal? The center set of springs is attached to the front and rear sets with rockers instead of having separate shackles. I don't know if they're all like that or not.
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