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Old 07-13-2013, 10:25 PM   #29
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Post 16 and post 24 have it right. All that jacking and fretting just dont make it. So simple to run the good axle on to blocked up board ramp and change the tire on the other axle.
If I drive my good axle up on boards or the "Trailer-Aid" ramp, The other wheel does not go up with it. It stays flat on the ground. I should have taken a picture when I tried it. My trailer axles are farther apart than most (new design?). That is why I started this. Long story made short. I can get the tire changed. It is just harder than I think it should be.
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Old 07-14-2013, 08:34 AM   #30
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Re axle slipping off bottle jack.. .Yes that can be an issue with a trailer.. On my motor home I position the jack, usually, under the spring mount and thus it's "Captive" within the plate and the U-bolts that hold everythign togehter.

Or teh shock mount (same plate)
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Old 07-14-2013, 08:40 AM   #31
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Re axle slipping off bottle jack.. .Yes that can be an issue with a trailer.. On my motor home I position the jack, usually, under the spring mount and thus it's "Captive" within the plate and the U-bolts that hold everythign togehter.

Or teh shock mount (same plate)
Don't forget your wheel chocks on the good side, the trailer is more apt to roll off the jack than the jack is to slip out from under it.
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Old 07-14-2013, 11:31 AM   #32
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why don't you just lift the trailer on the stabilizing jacks? You might need a couple of boards underneath. I used that method for years.
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Old 07-14-2013, 06:02 PM   #33
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I don't know if my stabilizer jacks would lift 7,000 or even 1/2 of that ?
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Old 07-14-2013, 07:11 PM   #34
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I had the "linear" style of stablizers on my 28'Carson, and although they were a struggle to lift the trailer, (took a lot of torque on my end) they would do it. Replaced them with the scissors style shown on the OP's post, and it was always a piece of cake. Basically, each would have to lift a ton. Pretty easy for a big jack. The little ones in a compact car will do that.
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Old 03-07-2014, 01:32 PM   #35
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I agree. The screw extension does not seem very sturdy.

I am considering this kit.

Safe Jack Bottle Jack Recovery Kit With Bottle Jack
Did you but that kit? I have the same issue with my lacrosse wide spread axles.
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Old 03-07-2014, 01:50 PM   #36
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I keep a collection of 2x8 and 4x4 for the same purpose. They come in handy. I also carry 2 bottle jacks. 1 large 10 ton unit and a smalerl 2 ton unit. I havn't had the need to jack on the frame I always use the spring pad.
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Old 03-07-2014, 08:15 PM   #37
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I never jack the axle or suspension. It's unstable and can damage the components. One bottle jack and a couple blocks of wood under the I-beam rear of the wheelset lifts the whole side (both wheels) safely and easily. Chock the opposite tires.

That's good for wheel bearing service, too.
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Old 03-07-2014, 09:06 PM   #38
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With a tandem axle can't you just use a 2x6 or two under the good wheel?
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Old 03-08-2014, 06:44 AM   #39
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With a tandem axle can't you just use a 2x6 or two under the good wheel?
I guess it depends on how high the trailer is. Two 2x6 and a bottle jack under the trailer frame is all I would ever use/need. And yes, tandem axle, the whole side with both wheels comes up togther (on mine).
Slap a jack stand under there and do the other side and you can pull all four wheels togther for storage or to bring them to the tire shop for balancing etc.
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Old 03-08-2014, 09:39 AM   #40
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Curious on what others do for jacking up there units. Units with the EZ Tow Wide Track Suspension found on many primetime TT units.
My unit weigh over 8k I dont think I could pull all 4 wheels off at once. Heck I like to just get one wheel off.
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Old 03-09-2014, 08:11 PM   #41
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http://m.tractorsupply.com/en/store/...%3B-jack-stand

I use this since it has a very large base that makes it stable. It also has an integrated jack stand for safety.

The other thing that surprised me was that when I went to a major tire store in Texas(discount tire) for new tires they wanted to use a floor jack on the end of the trailers frame. The manual that came with my Starcraft and Keystone state specifically to Jack only at the frame adjacent to where the springs are attached. The tire place made me show them the manual.

After they were convinced of the proper location, it turned out that their jacks would not lift the trailer off the ground enough to get the tire off. I had to get my jack out to lift the trailer. I thought this must have been a fluke.

The second time I had this problem was with a 30' Keystone hideout. The tire shop wanted to Jack it up at the axle. Again I had to be very direct and actually raise my voice to stop them from jacking it up on the axle. Their rationale was that they "do this all the time" Again I had to use my jack.

Make sure and watch how those guys handle your rig!
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Old 03-09-2014, 09:51 PM   #42
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This is a pretty simple process to change a tire. We always have two sides on this issue. One side says jack up the frame, the other says to put the jack under the axle u bolts. Both work but why would I want to jack up the trailer so high that it becomes unstable if you use the frame method. If you think that jacking under the u bolts is going to damage anything then what happens when you go through a deep pot hole or over a curb? Those forces are applied by the tires exactly onto the connection between the axle and spring pad. If that doesn't bend the axle then jacking in the same position won't either. To keep my life simple I use the screw jack from my E 250 Ford van to change my tires. If it can lift my van loaded then it can certainly lift one of four wheels 3 or 4 inches. Seems pretty simple to me unless I'm missing something.
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