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Old 04-23-2012, 08:41 PM   #1
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Brakes Q&A

Pulled the drums to check the brakes and bearings. Bearings look like they got HOT at some point, so I'm replacing them for sure. But what about these brakes? The lining thickness is 3/16, the drum has no groves. What about this magnet/ actuator? Will it go another few seasons, depending on milage of course.
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:15 AM   #2
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I pulled my drums two weeks ago (first time sine I bought the trailer new in 2010). My brake pads were between 1/8 and 3/16 of an inch. From what I understand, there is plenty of life left on them.

The bearings seemed okay. So, I lubed them through my EZ lube zirk fittings. In hindsight, I think I should have hand packed them but I couldn't figure out how to remove the inner bearing.
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:31 AM   #3
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Usually to remove the inner bearing, you put the brake drum back on the axel. Put the axel nut back on a few threads, and with a downward motion, pull the brake drum off. The inner bearing and the grease seal will come off.
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Old 04-24-2012, 12:10 PM   #4
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To remove the seal and inner bearing, I just tapped the race from the outside. But I was replacing the bearings since I knew that they had been overheated. My seal pulled was too big fir this diameter.

But to get back to my question, is 3/16 lining almost new, and what about that magnet in the picture? Is it still serviceable?
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Old 04-24-2012, 02:15 PM   #5
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I really don't know that much about the magnets. Interestingly, I asked myself that same question when I looked at mine. Ultimately, however, I figured they were ok since my electronic brake control was functioning normally (i.e. trailer brakes worked as expected with boost and pre-set settings). This also told me that grease did not get past the rear bearing seal as is apparently the risk when lubing through the EZ lube axles.
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Old 04-24-2012, 07:20 PM   #6
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I found few electric brake magnet troubleshooting links when I googled the same. One by Etrailer seemed to work I was having a error on my controller and no brake control at all. I found one magnet had a short that was causing a 5 amp draw on the system. Pretty easy to do if you have a cheap meter handy. I cut the bad ones wires and the other three magnets worked fine. I then replaced the bad one and connected it up and all is good. Good luck with TT
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Old 05-04-2012, 12:48 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by NomadBD View Post
I pulled my drums two weeks ago (first time sine I bought the trailer new in 2010). My brake pads were between 1/8 and 3/16 of an inch. From what I understand, there is plenty of life left on them.

The bearings seemed okay. So, I lubed them through my EZ lube zirk fittings. In hindsight, I think I should have hand packed them but I couldn't figure out how to remove the inner bearing.
Take a sharp punch and a hammer and work the edge between the drum and the seal about a third to half the way around the hub. Then using a claw hammer, a crows foot pry bar or some thing that you can stick between the bearing and the seal that will let you pry it out. Its only thin tin so with some effort they will come right out letting you to pull the bearing right out.
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Old 05-04-2012, 07:34 AM   #8
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I can't tell too much from the photo, but the magnet does appear to have some face wear on the right hand side. However, since you have it all apart anyway, you might want to go to e-trailer.com to see how much a total brake assembly is for your rig. You might be so surprised that you order two.
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Old 05-05-2012, 01:54 PM   #9
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Well it turned out that the lining on new brakes is 3/16" so my brakes looked to be about 100%. I think they are original. I don't know the travel history on this unit, but would guess it has very low mileage. The spare tire looks to be in excellent shape with a build date of early 1994!

I put it all back together with new bearings and seals. When I get home next week, I'll measure the Amp draw at each magnet. I just learned about that.
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Old 05-05-2012, 02:13 PM   #10
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Usually to remove the inner bearing, you put the brake drum back on the axel. Put the axel nut back on a few threads, and with a downward motion, pull the brake drum off. The inner bearing and the grease seal will come off.
Before you do this make sure there isn't a retainer C-clip holding it all in place. Some of the older tts had this type setup. I know because it cost
a friend a new brake drum. 1972 Kencraft TT.
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Old 05-06-2012, 10:31 AM   #11
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Get a seal puller for removing rear seals. Shaped like a claw hammer but much thinner. No damage to bearings or seal surfaces. On the tool isle at most auto stores.
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Old 05-06-2012, 12:31 PM   #12
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Well it turned out that the lining on new brakes is 3/16" so my brakes looked to be about 100%. I think they are original. I don't know the travel history on this unit, but would guess it has very low mileage. The spare tire looks to be in excellent shape with a build date of early 1994!

I put it all back together with new bearings and seals. When I get home next week, I'll measure the Amp draw at each magnet. I just learned about that.
To test out your electric brakes magnets, just plug your trailer cord back into the tow vehicle. Have someone step on the brake pedal and with a wrench (or any metal) place it on the magnet. It should "snap" the wrench onto the magnet, indicating a strong magnet. A weeker magnet will not "snap", but will still hold the wrench. As far as the E Z lube axles, it's not recommended to use them with electric brake setups, you don't know how much grease is being pumped into the hub. Over greaseing could cause the seal to leak, thus putting grease onto the brake shoes, and we know what happens then.
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