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Old 05-02-2012, 08:41 AM   #1
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Charging Current to Batteries

I had to purchase two batteries after one was found bone dry and the other had two bad cells. The In-Line 30A fuse blown and melted the rubber casing around the fuse. These batteries were 5 years old and got my money worth from them. I do check the level and voltage at least every two months. I will add one thing to my checks is the charging current reading to my list.

Question #1: Did I damage my charging system having a bone dry battery? I replaced the two batteries (Deep Cycle) and In-Line fuse holder with new ones. I measured the DC charging current by pulling both In-Line fuse (one at a time) out both batteries and measuring the DC charging current to be (.51 ma) and voltage reading was 13.51 VDC.

Question #2: Why are there two DC charging wires that feed one and the other battery? The batteries are in parallel and why do you need two charging wires?

Question #3: Is both the 30A In-Line fuse to big for protection of the battery? Should I go lower in amps and what size would I use?

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Old 05-02-2012, 06:02 PM   #2
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TLI (too little information)
How do you monitor charging/battery condition/depth of discharge
Question #1: Did I damage my charging system having a bone dry battery?
Not by boiling the battery dry or is it just neglect, but why did this happen I would be more suspicious of the charging system being at fault.
I replaced the two batteries (Deep Cycle) and In-Line fuse holder with new ones. I measured the DC charging current by pulling both In-Line fuse (one at a time) out both batteries and measuring the DC charging current to be (.51 ma) and voltage reading was 13.51
VDC.
Are these reading before or after battery replacement? The 13.5 is fine. What are you using for charging?

Question #2: Why are there two DC charging wires that feed one and the other battery? The batteries are in parallel and why do you need two charging wires?
Couple of possibilities, making up for too small wire by using two of them different originating sources?

Question #3: Is both the 30A In-Line fuse to big for protection of the battery? Should I go lower in amps and what size would I use?'
The fuses are more to protect the coach than to protect the battery. This also speaks to the TLI what is the charging source and its potential charging current.
It is vital to monitor battery condition and to do the maintenance.
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Old 05-03-2012, 06:48 AM   #3
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I did more research for more information on my charging system for my batteries.

Quote:
Are these reading before or after battery replacement? The 13.5 is fine. What are you using for charging?
The reading were taking after the battery was replaced. (DC charging current to be (.51 ma) and voltage reading was 13.51 VDC.)


I have a (IOTA DSL-30 Charger) for my WW.

Quote:
As a battery charger, the unit will maintain the battery, delivering its full-rated current when the battery capacity falls sufficiently low. The voltage is set to deliver its maximum current for the necessary period of time to minimize undue stress to the battery caused by heating of its cells. This helps to ensure the longest possible life of the battery. Over time, as the battery nears its full capacity, the DLS-30 will automatically drop the current, providing a float-charge to the battery to prevent self-discharge of the cells.
I read there is a optional attachment that can be added to the DSL-30.

Quote:
The IQ4 Charge Controller offers automatic charging control for DLS
Battery Chargers, providing longer and safer use of your system’s
battery. The IQ4 Controller allows the DLS Charger to operate as an
automatic 3-stage “smart charger” that gives the customer the benefit
of Bulk, Absorption, and Float stage charging. Three-Stage Charging
increases the charging capacity of the DLS charger and decreases
the charge time while insuring proper and safe battery charging and
minimizing the possibility of over-charging. The IQ4 monitors the battery
at all times. If the DLS voltage remains in the Float stage for more
than seven days, the IQ4 will automatically enter the Equalization stage
for a predetermined time to help maintain the battery plates, and then
resume float stage charging.
http://www.iotaengineering.com/pplib/IQ4manual.pdf

I also checked the DSL-30 charger shutoff when my 5.5K generator is running and restarts when the generator is not running.

Seems like everything is working fine. Just wondering if I should opt to get the IQ4 smart charger controller for the DSL-30.

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Old 05-03-2012, 09:11 AM   #4
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To question one.. IT appears the batteries shorted out, thus blowing the fuse.

So did you damage the charging system? Well, technically yes, since that fuse is part of the system but I very much suspect that fuse is the ONLY damage so the practical answer is NO.. Thanks to the fuse.

And now you know the vlaue of fuses.

What converter do you have.. Depending on the converter. You may wish to upgrade.
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Old 05-03-2012, 04:56 PM   #5
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Quote:
Seems like everything is working fine. Just wondering if I should opt to get the IQ4 smart charger controller for the DSL-30.
I ordered the IQ4 charge controller that plugs into the module on the DSL-30. I talked to the company that makes the DSL-30 and said the IQ4 will work with what I have. Picture shown below.
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