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Old 07-10-2009, 09:49 PM   #15
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Scott, not to but-in on Paul's excellent knowledge, however, this 12V wire size calculator: http://carpc.kyferez.com/Tools/Elect...WireVDrop.html
is a handy and quick tool.
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Old 07-10-2009, 10:56 PM   #16
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Well, according to wire tables a #8 wire will carry 45 Amps, a #6 60 amps in free air. Of course thats at 110 AC. For 12 volts DC... who knows but I think it's safe to assume those tables are about right.
The negative side doesn't have to go all the way back to the battery. The negative side of the battery is connected to the chassis. You could just run the negative down to the chassis from the converter and connect it there and let the chassis carry the negative current load. The positve lead has to go back to + on the battery but instead of running all that wire can you relocate the converter closer to the battery or to the + fuse panel instead? No matter where the converter sits you can save wire on the - side by using the chassis. Remember too, that if that's the way you wire it you will also have to upsize the negative from the battery to chassis also.
I think another 8 is sufficient. 2 #8 = 90 amps capacity. If you have to run further then about 20 feet, upsize to a #6 to make up for wire resistance.

If you buy another 12 volt battery you will interconnect the positive leads of each battery to each other. The negative of the new battery to the chassis, or interconnect each battery negative, or both the negative to the chassis and the other battery. When using wires to interconnect batteries or to chassis remember to always use a large enough wire to carry the max load of all 12 volt stuff on at once. I like larger battery interconect wires. If you're going to pull as much as 60 amps through your rig because you now have a 60 amp converter, I would run at least a # 4 (#2 would be better) or larger wire for all your battery interconnections and grounds. In my rig they are all 4/0 but that's just me. I like not worrying about my battery cables ever getting hot. Any loose battery connections anywhere will cause these #s to be all wrong and wiring will overheat. A loose connection is like adding 500 feet of wire in the circuit. Check and recheck all wire connections, in your fuse panel, the batteries, in the 110 side, all negative and grounds, EVERYWHERE. A trailer is not like a house that just sits there. A trailer rattles and shakes over every mile and they do loosen connections.
Good luck and keep us posted. You will like the PD-9260. New technology that's far nicer to your batteries, very quiet, and much more efficient. Little chance of ever overheating and you can buy a pendant that will tell you what mode the converter is in or manually cycle them at your preference for another 10$ Cool!
-Paul R. Haller-
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Old 07-15-2009, 09:42 AM   #17
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Paul (and others)
I just concverted the Magnatech 6332Q to the Progressive Dynamics 9260 with help from articles found on the Web. It was extremely easy and went in with only minor difficulties. It is now in place and working extremely well. It has cycled thru the different stages and is now in storage mode (13.2 volts).

I will be adding the second wire this weekend. I just wanted to make sure, but I will be adding a 6 gauge positive and negative. The positive will be going from the second output on the converter straight to the battery correct? The original one goes from the output on the converter to the fuse block and then to the battery. The negative I will add will go straight to the chasis. The current negative goes from the concerter to the negative block (second wire then to chasis) the fuse block and then back to the battery.

I just want to make sure that the new wires go straight to the battery and the chasis?

Everyone thank you for all your help, I could not have made these modification wtihout all your help. I am a novice at best with working on RV's, and all the assitance is greatly appreciated. This is the best forum on the web.

Thanks Again
Scott
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Old 07-15-2009, 09:53 AM   #18
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Oh yeah,
one other thing, can someone please tell me how to check the draw on my 12 volt system. I know you put all the 12 volt items on, but I dont know how to check the amp draw. I am sure it is easy, but I just dont know how. Any info would be greatly appreciated. And yes please bear with my ignorance, I am new to all this electrical stuff.
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Old 07-15-2009, 01:09 PM   #19
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Yes , add another wire from the positive terminal on the converter to the + side of your battery. Then, add an additional wire from the negative side of the converter either to the negative side of the battery or to the chassis. If you decide to go the chassis route instead of straight back to the negative side of the battery, you must also add another wire from the existing battery negative to the chassis as well to carry the additional load through the frame of the larger 60 amp converter unless this wire is already quite large. (#4 or larger)

The only way to measure your current draw in the trailer is to disconnect one battery side from the circuit and then meter the current draw between the battery and the terminal. Be forewarned... There may be as much as 50 -60 amps of current draw. Most hand held meters can only measure up to 10 amps before they overload. If you have a clamp on induction amp draw meter you can simply clamp on the induction clamp over the + leads, otherwise there is no way to read the total current draw at once. Often, all draws can be turned on and the fuses pulled and then metered across the fuses then adding up each circuit for your total but even at that, many circuits will carry more current then a hand held meter will read. If all you have is a digital meter with a current reading of 10 amps... your out of luck. You will have to guesstimate. All that said, it is safe to assume that no added 12 volts draws have been added other then that of the converter output. As long as you add another wire to carry the current to the battery from the converter you should be Golden. The other thing to remember is that it is extremely unlikely that all 12 volt loads are ever tuned on at once.
Thanks for reporting back. Your batteries will be much happier and so will you.
-Paul R. Haller-
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Old 07-16-2009, 09:43 AM   #20
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I did a long post in another thread somewhere this morning (may not be here)

What make and model converter does your rig have

What make and model battery disconnect?

There are several answers and to start, We need to know that
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Old 07-17-2009, 10:09 AM   #21
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I just installed a Progressive Dynamics 9260 with the Wizard. Prior to that I had a Magnatech 6332Q which had failure in the battery charging portion. As far as the battery, I currently have a single 24 series Interstate Deep Cycle (brand new). As far as the "disconnect" I am unsure of what you are asking.

Scottie
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Old 08-01-2009, 02:40 PM   #22
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Paul,
Just an update. I added the second wire from the converter to the battery, both positive and negative. I used a 6 guage and ran both from the converter to the positive and negative. Everything is working great. We used the trailer this past weekend and had no problems what's so ever.

Thanks again for all your help.

Scottie
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Old 08-06-2009, 11:41 AM   #23
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Great, and good job! I'm glad everything is working the way you hoped. Your batteries will be happier too.
-Paul-
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