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Old 02-15-2016, 08:00 PM   #15
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Does not matter where the weight is, if it is in the front or back of the truck. If you have room to put it in the trailer, it could help.
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Old 02-15-2016, 08:07 PM   #16
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You're making it difficult for people to help you. In one post you say your truck weighs 5,100# in another you say it weighs 5,500#. In one post you said your max towable weight is 9,100#, in another you said 8,100#. In one post you said your payload is 3,100#, while in another you said it's 1600#.
What is the wheelbase of your truck and is it 4x2 or 4x4 ?
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Old 02-15-2016, 08:11 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmcguire48 View Post
If I subtract truck weight(5500) from GVR (7100) I get 1600 payload capacity.

Now do I subtract tongue, passengers and cargo from that?
While that would, just on a pure "these are the numbers I have right now" basis, yes. But you really won't know what you are already dealing with as far as what your truck weighs loaded up for camping until you ...

*LOAD IT UP FOR CAMPING AND GO WEIGH IT*.

Any other discussion of weights is purely academic. You must know what your truck weighs in "ready to camping" trim in order to know what your truck weighs in "ready to go camping" trim.

Quote:
estimated: 500 Tongue; 350 passengers, 300/400 cargo

If all these numbers are correct am I okay?
Find out: RV Tow Check | Salesperson Fact Checker

On that site, you can use the calculator to easily change cargo weights and tongue weight percentages to see what *might* end up being OK. I learned a lot when I used it before I bought a trailer.

You're getting closer. Keep asking questions. You get it all worked out.
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Old 02-18-2016, 08:43 PM   #18
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1bigmess is exactly right. All these questions and answers are theoretical...you really need to go weigh your truck with a full tank of gas and everything you will take in it, including you. You being a newbie should be the reason TO get it weighed, not the reason to AVOID getting it weighed (not busting on you...I'm a noob too)

You don't need a weigh station, any scrap or metal yard will weigh you for cheap. That's the only way to know your how much payload you have to play with (if you do have a problem, payload is where it would be most likely) Then weigh the front of the TT on the same scale so youknow the hitch weight w/ full propane tank and WDH on it. Now you can start doing the math and correctly minus weights from your payload number.

Also, you need to weigh the truck with only the front tires on the scale, then the rear. Tha'ts b/c payload is only half the problem. You can be within payload but still over what your axle is capable of carrying. The axle has it own rating.

Do the math, its not worth being way over rating.

BTW-to alleviate some weight on the hitch, you need to put some stuff in the back of the TT, not the TV...just like a teeter-totter at the playground.
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Old 02-20-2016, 07:44 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by GaryWT View Post
Does not matter where the weight is, if it is in the front or back of the truck. If you have room to put it in the trailer, it could help.

It does to some extent. Weight over the trailer axels only puts 12% of its weight on the truck. Weight in the bed of the truck puts 100% of the weight on the truck. Heavy items like bikes and ice chests stored near trailer axels can make a difference in staying under payload limits.
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Old 02-22-2016, 04:48 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Loraura View Post
It does to some extent. Weight over the trailer axels only puts 12% of its weight on the truck. Weight in the bed of the truck puts 100% of the weight on the truck. Heavy items like bikes and ice chests stored near trailer axels can make a difference in staying under payload limits.
The question was does it matter where in the truck the weight is. Does not matter if it is in the bed of the truck or on a seat the total weight is the total weight in the truck. I agree with you on weight in the trailer as the weight can add to the tongue weight or not, just have to be sure there is enough weight forward to avoid sway issues.
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