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Old 12-11-2013, 06:40 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by muelldawg View Post
Even in Phoenix we drain water from lines and tanks. One year we did not and kitchen faucet froze at top and toilet pump was damaged; all discovered on our first spring outing.
Even if you winterize, you should leave the faucets all OPEN so the water can drain down to a low point when not under pressure.
Just make sure you close them before hooking up the water... ask me how I know!?!? (think shower with door open)
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Old 12-11-2013, 08:35 AM   #16
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It is very easy to winterize an RV, there are 3 methods, I use the 3rd one now, have used the other two. I will describe.

IF you are planing on using it often during the winter, Then leaving it heated might be best but if you don't plan on hooking it up again till spring, Winterize.

First 2 methods:

Drain and bypass the water heater. On attwood units remove the RED WIRE from the ECO connector.


Method 1: Wet method: You drain as much water as you can then get some gallons of "pink stuff" (RV antifreeze) depending on your rv you either force it in via the city water inelt using a hand pump or suck it in with the on-board pump using a winterizing valve and siphon line.
Opening all valves and faucets long enough to see the pink.

Make sure you have Pink in toilet, drain traps and pour some into the waste tanks as well.

I do not recommend doing that however.. Then you pour pink into drains and traps.

2: Dry method:

Open all valves (Save the ones to the water heater, you leave those in the "Bypass" position) using an air compressor (Tank type) with a regulator set to around 50 PSI, and a blow out plug blow till you get no more water, or run out of air.

Wait, (Let the compressor re-charge) at least a few minutes, then blow again,, Do this like 10 or so times till you get no more water..

Now add pink to toilets and drains, dump waste tanks and add a pint or two more pink to both the kitchen sink and the toilet (if you have a 2nd gray tank add to what feeds it as well.


Method 3, what I use now.. DRIVE SOUTH to where it does not get so cold and enjoy the camper full time.
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Old 12-11-2013, 09:39 AM   #17
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Drain and bypass the water heater. On attwood units remove the RED WIRE from the ECO connector.
Why do you need to do that?
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Old 12-11-2013, 10:16 AM   #18
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Here in Oregon, with the exception of this last week it really doesn't freeze for that long. Maybe a few nights off and on during the winter.
Regardless I just blow the lines, pour anti freeze down the traps and drain the water heater. I don't like leaving water in there all winter. Not sure how the anode rod works but with our water it won't last too long. I pulled it out last week and it is dissolved about 1/2 way near the threaded end. And that's only 7 months of use. I'm guessing that by next April it will be about to break into two pieces.
So that's why I drain the hot water heater.
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Old 12-12-2013, 07:26 AM   #19
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I read somewhere on this forum regarding winter camping about using windshield wiper fluid in the black water tank to flush and hold as it won't freeze and is cheaper than rv antifreeze. Not to be used in the lines to winterize as wiper fluid is toxic, but ok for boondock flushing. I also have always been told to leave some fluids in the holding tanks so the tank seals stay moist? Just my 2 cents. Safe travels and happy camping!
I suppose you could, but the RV antifreeze costs $2.97 a gallon at Walmart. How much can you really save?
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Old 12-12-2013, 12:55 PM   #20
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I suppose you could, but the RV antifreeze costs $2.97 a gallon at Walmart. How much can you really save?
Good point, I should have compared the two. About one dollar, which adds up for boondock flushing in below freezing weather.
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Old 12-12-2013, 05:28 PM   #21
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In the old days I had a trailer that was very easy to winterize.

NO toilet or shower or waste tanks, Only a pair of fresh water systems. you winterized the "On-board" by opening a pair of drain valves, and you wintereized the city water by disconnecting the hose.

The city water was about 1 1/2 inches of half inch cast iron pipe. Female hose fitting on one end, Spigot (Wall cock) on the other.. That was the whole system.
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