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Old 08-10-2013, 10:14 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by hppycmpr View Post
Open the outside panel and see if you smell an amonia or see a yellowish powder in the access panel. The gas could have leaked out of the fridge. I had the same problem on my TT last year after only 2 trips.
No such finding, but thanks for the tip... never know when it may occur in the future..
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Old 08-10-2013, 10:30 AM   #16
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One final note of thanks to all that replied.... THANKS!

I'm pretty sure my problem was not being level, may be wishful thinking but it's the most likely cause at this point. We shall see.
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Old 08-10-2013, 10:40 AM   #17
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Meaning... compressor is either propane or AC, I understand the control board needs current from the deep cycle battery.
peglegPete
RV LP/AC refrigerators, (aka: absorption refrigerators), do not have compressors.

The 12VDC required for operation is normally supplied by a 120VAC to 12VDC "convertor" when you have shore or genset power, (by the house batteries when you do not).

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Old 08-11-2013, 08:38 PM   #18
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Meaning... compressor is either propane or AC, I understand the control board needs current from the deep cycle battery.
The control board needs 12V to function. Then there is a 120V heating element, or LP flame that heats and boils the refrigerant to circulate it. No compressor.
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Old 08-11-2013, 10:18 PM   #19
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Level is a relative term to some folks, but the fridge needs to be...level, when stationary. If you are uncomfortable walking, sleeping or doors swing open/shut when stationary, you aren't level enough for the fridge to work correctly. Going down the road is a completely different situation, where the constant bouncing keeps the ammonia in motion.
Glad to hear it is working ok now.
Joe
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