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Old 03-16-2011, 09:53 AM   #29
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Mafia, My Insurance company paid my (ex) RV dealer 5K to replace the top on my 20' TT... I tried to talk my agent into letting me do the repairs myself , for Much less money , but he Insisted the dealer do it .... in fact he even called me from the dealers .. which ran up a red flag around here... I'm now wondering if he got a "taste" ... I could have done a MUCH better job with far Superior materials for around 500 bucks ... The dealer merely put on the same thin TPO crap it had on it before ... although he assured me it was a "rubber " roof ..... grrrrrrrrr!!!!

RV dealers are a little Ridiculous with their pricing ... Guess they figure if you can afford one , then you can afford to pay anything they ask ...
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Old 03-16-2011, 07:14 PM   #30
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My local camping world (formally of Snellville Ga)offered to replace the roof on my old class C for $4000,
So I contacted Firestone in Atlanta and got a 100' roll of their thinest commercial membrane roof, a 5 gallon bucket of the roll on glue and a case of the caulk, Total $300, half day of tear off, clean up and repairs, the a day and a half to re-roof and caulk. using a base pay of $300 a day my cost (if I paid myself) $900, actual out of pocket was $300.
And I had enough left over to do 2 more!, I gave the left overs to a friend with older RV.

I here ya. I'm one of those "do it myself" guys as well. Mine isn't leaking now, and I've resealed and used the patch tape in suspect areas for this year, but after this season, I'm going to do the same thing.
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Old 03-18-2011, 12:58 PM   #31
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Now I don't know about you guys , but my "low end" TT has a thin 3/32" ply roof , un sealed , untreated in any manner under the TPO .. I was thinking before I apply a better roofing membrane , I should seal the plywood first ... I've been sealing wood for many years using a 75% Mineral Spirits , 25% polyurethane varnish (multiple coats) ... worked very well to help preserve many outdoor projects, so why not try to waterproof the part that stands to get the most damage from water intrusion... the basic plywood ... The roofing (membrane) adhesive will stick well to that and if the roofing tears or gets punctured , the water won't wick all over the place as with un sealed ply .... The big question is why this wasn't done at the factory ??? I know , price points and all that , but you'd thing they'd want their products to last ... at least a little while beyond their generous one year warranty ...
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Old 03-19-2011, 05:30 AM   #32
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Now I don't know about you guys , but my "low end" TT has a thin 3/32" ply roof , un sealed , untreated in any manner under the TPO .. I was thinking before I apply a better roofing membrane , I should seal the plywood first ...
That might help - but my experience in water intrusion issues in my stick house (also plywood) would indicate that water tends to travel well beyond the intrusion point. In an RV I would suspect that most water damage takes in the walls etc where the water settles rather than the intrusion point in the roof.
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Old 03-19-2011, 06:18 AM   #33
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KSG5K, My learned RV advisor who repairs RVs for a living (Big ones ) showed me that all the water problems start with the roof ...then dribbles down and rots the sides, floors , and anything else in its path ... He showed me LARGE 2 Motor coaches that were in for repairs , whole areas rotted out from small intrusions on the roof sides ... He said he gets these all the time , keeps him in lots of Money ...

Now as a hobby , I build small Teardrop trailers and do EVERYTHING I can to seal All the wood and prevent water intrusion and the resulting ROT ... That works fine with none of the problems of the commercial units ...
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Old 03-27-2011, 09:12 PM   #34
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Hello, i have a rubber roof question also. I just purchased a TT a few weeks ago and noticed that i had a leak in roof around the antenna. Well i noticed the sealant was missing around the cable that goes threw the roof so i put some sealant around it. But while i was doing that i noticed a soft spot in the roof well will i was feeling around it i relized the soft spot is a hole about 8 inched in dia and that the rubber isn't glued down just laid i think they just put a rubber roof over the hole. Question is can i take the rubber off and reuse it and glue it down after i fix the whole. THANKS
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Old 03-27-2011, 09:22 PM   #35
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If it is actually a "rubber roof" like is used on commercial builds the answer is yes.
It can be patched just like a tube from a tire.
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Old 03-27-2011, 09:33 PM   #36
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You have a few choices here, you can reroof the sole thing and redo the plywood while your at it or you can get some lap sealant for the antenna hole and EPDM tape for the large area. My recommendation is contact local Rv place for price of tape then contact local roofing company for same tape. I got a 10 ft long 12 inch wide piece for free! Left overs . The 4inch wide by 5 ft at the RV place would have been $25.00 plus tax

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Old 03-27-2011, 10:15 PM   #37
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Hey thanks guys. All the rubber is in good shape just not glued down. This is the first Camper i have owned so im real new to all this. Would u guys pull all rubber off and glue it down or just patch the area of the roof im gonna repair. An if i just repair does that tape work good at bonding 2 pieces of the rubber together
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Old 03-28-2011, 04:39 AM   #38
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Hello, i have a rubber roof question also. I just purchased a TT a few weeks ago and noticed that i had a leak in roof around the antenna. Well i noticed the sealant was missing around the cable that goes threw the roof so i put some sealant around it. But while i was doing that i noticed a soft spot in the roof well will i was feeling around it i relized the soft spot is a hole about 8 inched in dia and that the rubber isn't glued down just laid i think they just put a rubber roof over the hole. Question is can i take the rubber off and reuse it and glue it down after i fix the whole. THANKS
More likely your "hole" is just rotted wood rather than some idiot cutting out a hole in the roof and not bothering to repair it correctly. If so - then chances are your repair job is going to be more extensive than you think. You might want to consult an RV tech to get some ideas.
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Old 03-28-2011, 04:55 AM   #39
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Of all the plywood in an RV the stuff under the roof membrane is the easiest to repair and a person with intermediate carpentry skills can handle these projects.
There are no cosmetic blending to deal with, just remove rotted area, patch and re-roof. The one thing I'd say is, Gorilla glue is your friend!
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Old 03-29-2011, 06:23 AM   #40
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If you have roof rot then chances are you have more water issues then just the roof. Just my 02.
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Old 03-30-2011, 09:01 PM   #41
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You have a few choices here, you can reroof the sole thing and redo the plywood while your at it or you can get some lap sealant for the antenna hole and EPDM tape for the large area. My recommendation is contact local Rv place for price of tape then contact local roofing company for same tape. I got a 10 ft long 12 inch wide piece for free! Left overs . The 4inch wide by 5 ft at the RV place would have been $25.00 plus tax

Ron & Wendy 94 Pace Arrow 454
One more question. Is the glue that u use on a rubber roof for a house the same as the rv stuff?
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Old 03-30-2011, 09:17 PM   #42
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One more question. Is the glue that u use on a rubber roof for a house the same as the rv stuff?
Depends on the EPDM material and where you get it from, Dicor Brite tek uses water based 90 adhesive to bond with the luan, commercial roofing EPDM 60 mil thickness recommends solvent based adhesive but thats due to overlap at seams but yo can get the 45 mil and use standard 90 water based adhesive. The EPDM tape itself comes in many forms commercially, some requires hot welding, adhesive application and peel and stick. The kind you need is the peel and stick then roll/rub to heat it up and seal.

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