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Old 09-11-2012, 09:32 PM   #1
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Electrical issues

Wondering if anyone has run into to this, or could recommend a resource for repair info. I have a 1999 Fleetwood Wilderness model 24j. Had it in the campsite hooked up and things running like the fridge and the ac, ac was on low and was cycling normally, everything working fine. Left for an event for the day, and upon returning, found that we had no interior lights, no ac, and no fridge, however the power outlets all work,, so we could watch tv in the dark :-)
I checked for power at the breakers, all the breakers test good, were in the on position, and read 123 volts at the appropriate hot terminal. The automotive style fuses that run things like lights and such are all good and not blown. I'm wondering if there's some other fuse or breaker somewhere that I'm not seeing or not obvious. Appreciate any advice you might offer.
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Old 09-11-2012, 09:38 PM   #2
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What is the amp rating on the main breaker(s)?

Do you have one or two main breakers?

Did you cycle all the breakers off and on again?
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Old 09-11-2012, 09:45 PM   #3
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Since your 12 volts is supplied by the converter/charger and your AC are not running you have an AC problem. If you have a transfer switch it may be defective. If you are using 50 amp service one leg might be out at the pedestal. If you have an onboard generator, unplug from shoreline and see if things come alive with it running. If so turning the generator off will cycle a transfer switch and it may come alive on shore power when you plug it back in.
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Old 09-11-2012, 09:56 PM   #4
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[QUOTE=F100mike;1306497]found that we had no interior lights, no ac, and no fridge, however the power outlets all work,, /QUOTE]

I'm suspecting your problem is all 12v related. Interior lights are 12v, A/C controls are usually 12v, reefer controls are 12v. Your power outlets are obviously 120v.
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Old 09-12-2012, 12:04 PM   #5
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[QUOTE=KIX;1306528]
Quote:
Originally Posted by F100mike View Post
found that we had no interior lights, no ac, and no fridge, however the power outlets all work,, /QUOTE]

I'm suspecting your problem is all 12v related. Interior lights are 12v, A/C controls are usually 12v, reefer controls are 12v. Your power outlets are obviously 120v.

After a good nights sleep I agree with KIX.
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Old 09-12-2012, 03:06 PM   #6
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"Suspect" 12 volt is not the right term.. It is beyond a doubt 12 volt related.

You may have lost your converter.. Now, without more info it's hard to say too much but here are some thought points:

Many RV's have a combination power panel. 12 volt 120 volt both behind the same door, and the converter is often right behind that. Others. (minne for example) have a 12 volt door, a 120 volt door and the converter... Somewhere else entierly.

A breaker may have tripped feeding the converter (happneed to me a few times)

Since my converter is "elsewhere" it's plugged in, not hard wired, I've snagged the plug a couple of times (makes me right happy I have two converters when that happens, cause a 3am (Uaually when I figure it out) I do not want to get dressed go out and plug it back in, but making switch inside go CLICK, no trouble at all).

The converter has fuses on/in it

Many Rv's have a circuit breaker in the battery line,, The service manual for my Intelletec Battery Control System shows two of them PUSH HARD TO RESET (note unplug first) that do not exist on my RV, but an 80 amp self resetting is . close by.

These are the main points.. Of course fresh fried converter is possible too.

For now.. if you can not find the answer, use a "Smart charger" (automotive type) on the house batteires till you can hop over to ye-old-shop.
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Old 09-13-2012, 07:15 AM   #7
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Thanks, and a bit more

Thanks guys for the info. This is my first foray into RV electrical, so the information was invaluable, I fix cars for a living so not all of it is foreign to me. I was not aware however that things like lights, a/c controls, and the fridge were operated by 12 volt supply, but after some inspection that should have been clear since the lamps are all 1156 park light bulbs, and the fuse panel is standard automotive two-blade fuses. Some further inspection reveals that there's what looks like a converter mounted behind the fuse/breaker panel, although I'm going to have to do some serious removal of stuff to get to it and be certain. I presume that the main breaker feeds this converter, which in turn feeds the 12V to the fuse panel and then onto the various circuits. You mention a reset, would that be on the converter itself? And is there a fuse or fuse link wire between the breaker and the converter? Thanks for all the direction, much appreciated :-)
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Old 09-13-2012, 08:01 AM   #8
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Before you replace anything... check the receptacle your converter is plugged into. It's more than likely a ground fault receptacle or on a circuit that has a ground fault receptacle. Find ALL ground fault receptacles and push the reset button. Always easy and free or cheap things first. If the receptacle to the converter has power then your converter (Intellitec 9140 or 9155) is probably dead... yes it has two fuses but they would normally only blow if you reversed the power leads and you hadn't changed anything. If you replace your converter use the newer 9200 series that has the charge wizard built in... AND check your batteries. Main reason for a converter to go out is a dead cell or low electrolyte level in a battery causing the converter to keep charging at full capacity until it burns out.
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Old 09-13-2012, 10:33 AM   #9
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IF the converter is directly beind the fuse and breaker panels odds are there is no outlet, it's hard wired. But do check for voltage on said wire.

Tell us what model it is, we may have a suggested "easier way" to fix.

The RESET (if any such exists) will be elsewhere. And where it is can be .. Well, many places.

Try this, since you work on cars I suspect you have a 12 volt test lamp, It is your friend in a case like this, Though a meter tells you more than a lamp, you relly only need "Power present' or "Power missing" and the light is fantastic for this.

Start at the batteries themselves.. Hopefully you have charged them using a automotive smart charger, if not put a decent auto charger on them long enough to take 'em up to around 80-90 percent. I recommned not using a fast charger (take at least 3-4 hours to get to that point)

Now... Check across the batteires, LIGHT.. Good

Move ground clip to chassis, hot point still on the battery positive, LIGHT: good (Dark means bad conneciton on negative cable, check both ends)

Now move out along the positive wire, the heaviest one if there are more than one, Towards the fuse box.. When the light goes from bright to dark, you found the problem.
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