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Old 10-30-2012, 09:34 AM   #15
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Yep. We've been fortunate and never had a surge problem. Perhaps it is becasue we were warned about this early on and we have also had both of our RV's hardwired with a surge protector. Like Kevin above, I was afraid the plug in kind would grow legs and walk away. The cost of having one hardwired was not much more than a good plug in one.
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:15 AM   #16
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FTing for 5+ years now, and wouldn't be without a surge protector. I think the more parks you visit, it just makes sense that sooner or later you will run into a issue.

Ours has shut down the power 4 or 5 times over the last few years, usually due to low voltage issues. However, this summer we were at a Thousand trails park where there were constant power spikes that would trip the protector to shut down the power into the rig. Interesting thing was that there were a number of MH's and fivers that were blissfully unaware of the issue as they did not have surge protectors, and thought everthing was fine.
Apparently, a lot of the time, the appliances will take a short term spike, or a low voltage situation. Its a cumalitve effect. However, the second morning we were there, one of the MH's without protection fried their satelight receiver.
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Old 10-31-2012, 08:34 AM   #17
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Most devices will handle a short spike up to 1,000 volts or so. Beyond that you need some sort of protection.
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Old 10-31-2012, 08:48 AM   #18
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I agree with the 220v assessment. Most likely from a bad/open Neutral.
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Old 11-01-2012, 01:41 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triker56
Buy him a early Christmas present.
RV 30 AMP surge protector
This is on sale at Camping World for five more days for $244.99 for members. It has 2450 joules surge protection and 6500 amps spike protection. I believe it has a led screen showing faults with the circuits.
The cheaper one is $74.99 and says it is best for entry level trailers and pop ups, I guess meaning ones with no microwaves, refrigerators, etc. it is rated at 510 joules surge protection and 2000 amps spike protection.
The reason I have the info handy is that I was planning to get the better one tomorrow.
These are for the 30 amp ones.
I don't even want to think about the nightmare of everything fried.
Oh yeah, they sell a little lock box that may somewhat deter theft, but it is just heavy plastic. We all know that if someone wants your stuff, given enough time and opportunity they will get it.
I have only owned my TT for a little over a year, and used it very little, BUT I have learned one thing about any RV from this forum.
You can worry about everything. Leaks, windstorms on awnings, flats, electrical problems, towing problems, etc, etc, etc, but I guess when nothing goes wrong and the campfire is burning just right, and some hot burgers and your favorite beverage are at hand, those thousands upon thousands of dollars we all spent are worth it.
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:37 AM   #20
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Thanks for the good word Big Bill. Currently I'm using pluig in surge protection for all my electronics. On the list of things to buy is a surge protector and a line tester to to check voltages before I plug in.

I also want to get ahold of a couple of CTs and an ammeter to track how many amps I'm pulling at any given time.
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:57 AM   #21
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SO - any particular surge protector recommended for a simple older 30-amp 5er?
Go to this web site. Made by Progressive Industries, the industry standard and comes with a lifetime warranty.

Progressive Industries

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Old 11-01-2012, 09:49 PM   #22
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Just got back from a trip where I plugged in my progressive surge into the box and it said the neutral was open. Got the CG owner and he put us in another spot. That too had a neutral open. He then tried to tell me it was my SP. We went to another part of the park and plugged it in and it was fine. Found out that whole section had a neutral out in it. Anyone plugging in that section without a SP would be fried.
I was having problems with understanding why a disconnected (floating) neutral would fry the 120 v appliances. In my experience, when the white wire is left off, all the 120 v appliances just do not work, while the 240v ones can - unless they have a 120 v component like a blower motor. But in doing more research, you are right. A floating neutral can float all the way up to one of the phases, meaning a 120 V circuit becomes a 240 V.

As to the surge when plugging in, that is a current surge, not a voltage spike, I think. The way to avoid this is to turn everything off prior to disconnecting your power, and leaving it that way until power is reconnected at the next camp ground. One can get a voltage transient when ever a motor turns on and off, something about back EMF if I recall correctly.

I have had a surge protector or two fail to protect my electronics. If their warranty is really good meaning they replace what fries, then that is a good deal. But I now see the wisdom of a line check to insure proper connections at the plug.
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Old 11-01-2012, 09:59 PM   #23
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Loose wiring inside the pedestal or where it gets its source will also cause major votage spikes. Plus inconsiderates change the wiring inside the pedestals to suit their own use. Considering how much an RV cost a good multimeter is cheap. Always check the pedestal before you plug in. Just my thoughts,
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Old 11-01-2012, 11:09 PM   #24
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Sounds like it was plugged into a 240VAC dryer or welder outlet.

Rusty
He should have read the voltages with a witness. If the pedestal was miswired, (most likely) file a claim against the CG owner. You have a reasonable expectation that it is wired properly. Anything else is negligence on his part.
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Old 11-01-2012, 11:35 PM   #25
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microwave wont work now. He thinks everything is ruined. Could that be?? He thinks the inverter is probably ruined also. Any ideas?
Don't assume anything.

FIRST: Get a digital voltmeter (under 20 bucks at WalMart or Radio Shack).

Second: Confirm that the voltage that he is testing with at home is indeed 120 volts +/- 5%.

Third: Test each appliance by plugging it directly into your home extension cord, bypassing all of the wiring in the trailer. Only then will your tests be valid.
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Old 11-02-2012, 07:02 AM   #26
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Loose wiring inside the pedestal or where it gets its source will also cause major voltage spikes. Plus inconsiderates change the wiring inside the pedestals to suit their own use. Considering how much an RV cost a good multimeter is cheap. Always check the pedestal before you plug in. Just my thoughts.
That is good advice for everyone to do. However, it may be correct when testing it the one time before you plug in. What happens when you lose the neutral, ground, or have high or low voltage AFTER you have plugged in and settled into your camp site?

That's why having a PI or TRC unit that checks them 24/7 is the best method to use.

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Old 11-02-2012, 08:04 AM   #27
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It boils down to it. Pay now or pay more later.
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Old 11-02-2012, 09:34 AM   #28
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I got many calls from customers many times about power problems. The part that is hard to believe is about half said, I turned on the front TV and it smoked, So I went back and turned on the rear TV and it smoked, and I went and turned on the microwave and it smoked. ( No folks you can't make this up.) Too many campground owners hire a guy who sees a Travel Trailer Plug and think clothes dryer. ( They wire 220 and not 120)If this happens to you, go straight to the office and report it. Always carry a Multimeter with you and if you have a problem Test the outlet and show the person from the campground that it was their problem. This happened about 5 times during my seventeen years at the dealership.
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