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Old 04-29-2016, 08:33 AM   #29
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Dustyone, thanks for the pics...

Everyone, I'm soaking in all the advice and I'll give it a test this weekend.
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Old 04-29-2016, 10:12 AM   #30
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Lots of advice to keep you busy on this.
Reading back thru all this, have you applied the brakes MANUALLY with the controller at around 40mph? If so, same results?
The factory bumper plug has a connection not far away above the hitch--you need to get the wiring down (lots of extra length to do this) where you can get hold of the connectors.
There is a release tab to take apart, don't just try to force it. Get it apart and look at the connector tabs--should be clean with no rust/corrosion. The location of this connector is exposed to lots of water spray. There should be signs of a slight amount of grease in there to prevent water problems. If it looks ok, then just reassemble carefully and recheck at 40 with the MANUAL lever to see if it is any better--you should get a noticeable drag using the lever and not the pedal.
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Old 04-29-2016, 10:17 AM   #31
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Please keep this information in mind......the Ford system is proportional.....




An electric trailer brake controller is a device that installs in the cab of your tow vehicle and activates your trailer's electric or electric-over-hydraulic brakes when you hit the brakes in your tow vehicle. Many models are available, and they differ from how they look to the number of brakes they can power. But all of them can be divided into 2 main groups: proportional or time delayed. This includes factory installed tow systems.


A proportional brake controller senses how the tow vehicle is slowing or stopping and applies the trailer's brakes with the same intensity. So if you slam on the brakes in your tow vehicle, the controller will activate your trailer's brakes just as forcefully. With a proportional controller, you can adjust the initial braking power and aggressiveness based on your trailer's weight and your braking preferences.

With a proportional brake controller, you can get heavy-duty emergency braking, general braking, or slow-to-an-idle braking for your trailer automatically. The intensity with which your trailer brakes are activated and the rate at which they are applied are dependent on the deceleration of your tow vehicle. This means that, unlike time-delay controllers - which send the same amount of preset power to your trailer brakes every time - proportional controllers are able to adapt to every braking situation differently. So if you slam on the brakes in your truck, your trailer brakes will activate with the same extreme intensity. And if you merely slow down as you approach a red light, your trailer will gradually brake in the same manner.
Using a light braking, you are not going to feel much tug, but hammer the pedal, and your brakes will snap to attention!

Activation during flat towing of the switch only won't lock the brakes, and is not a great test. The fact the poster stated his trailer wouldn't move after activating the e-brake tells me his system is working as designed.

Adjust your brakes shoes 3-4 clicks off contact. Go have fun.
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Old 04-29-2016, 01:17 PM   #32
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Yep, I'm aware they are proportional. I was recently in an emergency braking situation at about 50mph with the trailer and I couldn't stop. I was braking so hard that I ended up pulling on the steering wheel and forcing the pedal down to where I thought I'd snap the wheel off the column and I couldn't get enough stopping power to slow down at a rate that would seem reasonable. Luckily traffic started again before I plowed the guy in front of me. I don't have reasonable braking power from the trailer at any speed it seems. When going slow the truck evidently has good enough brakes that it is fairly comfortable paired with the little braking I get from the trailer. At freeway speeds it is another story.

At 40mph if I use 100% of the manual override it just tugs a bit applying a bit of resistance but I could continue driving with it fully engaged and not have any issues pulling other than burning up the trailer brakes. I can hold the manual brake levers 100% engaged and drive off from a stop if I want to. I get the same feel from using the pedal.

I'm hoping I find a bad ground or pinched wire or something. Will I be able to test the voltage/amps at the plug outlet on the truck without a trailer hooked up or will it not send signal unless it senses a plug/trailer? I guess I'll find out. I'll be tracing wires on the trailer as well. Might do all that this weekend.
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Old 04-29-2016, 01:22 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingnut60 View Post
The factory bumper plug has a connection not far away above the hitch--you need to get the wiring down (lots of extra length to do this) where you can get hold of the connectors.
There is a release tab to take apart, don't just try to force it. Get it apart and look at the connector tabs--should be clean with no rust/corrosion. The location of this connector is exposed to lots of water spray. There should be signs of a slight amount of grease in there to prevent water problems. If it looks ok, then just reassemble carefully and recheck at 40 with the MANUAL lever to see if it is any better--you should get a noticeable drag using the lever and not the pedal.
I'll check this out as well. My truck only has 20k miles on it and not much wet driving but in WA state that is definitely a concern so worth a look.
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Old 04-30-2016, 06:13 PM   #34
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Ok, I did some testing on the bumper plug. Using the manual levers on the brake controller I get a max voltage reading at the plug of 13.6v. Seems more than good. When using the brake pedal I read a max voltage of 6.6v with the controller set to max of 10. Doesn't seem good at all. Maybe the computer doesn't allow all 12v at a stand still? That would be silly if I was on a hill and needed it.

Summary of what I know so far:
1. The trailer emergency brake works excellent. I tested it and tried to pull away with it engaged and it wouldn't budge.

2. When pinching the manual levers on the brake controller 100% at any speed I get little braking power at the trailer. I feel it drag a bit but not enough to really add much braking power. With 13.6v I'd expect the trailer to really tug at the truck if not slow it down.

3. When using my brake pedal I really don't get much braking power either. It seems I should get a max of at least 10v on that controller set at 10 but maybe that is in the programming to not apply all 10v at a stand still which is how my measurements were taken?


Manual override: 13.6v max
Brake pedal: 6.6v max

So, should I next move to the trailer wiring from the plug to the wheels? Seems like the next logical step since the voltage at the bumper plug seems good although the pedal measurement seems too weak. I wonder if there is an adjustment I can make at the pedal.

Darren
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Old 04-30-2016, 06:23 PM   #35
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The normal brake pedal voltage may be higher with the trailer connected. The controller electronics may be confused without a electrical load. I'd ignore that for now and move to each wheel checking the voltages.

My money in still on a wiring problem, brake adjustment or bad magnets.


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Old 04-30-2016, 06:30 PM   #36
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The normal brake pedal voltage may be higher with the trailer connected. The controller electronics may be confused without a electrical load. I'd ignore that for now and move to each wheel checking the voltages.

My money in still on a wiring problem, brake adjustment or bad magnets.


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Thanks... I'll check out the wiring.

I did adjust the brakes a week ago and I believe the magnets should be good judging from my emergency brake test but I could be wrong. I'm hoping it is wiring... that would be a simple fix.
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Old 04-30-2016, 11:28 PM   #37
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First of all I do not know anything about your truck or the braking system. I was sitting here thinking and wondering are you sure you're getting a really good round all from your truck plug to your truck. I would love to see if you have a rusted bolt or if one of the wires could be loose or broke off. Ground wire that is. Just something to look at... Dusty
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Old 05-06-2016, 07:03 PM   #38
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Ok, I went and got the trailer out of storage to do more testing and other updates this weekend. I have a bit of revision on how things behave as I experimented on the way home.

1. When operating with the manual override at 100% from a stop it seems to hold pretty well but not nearly as well as the trailer E brake. I can pull it away but it offers decent resistance. It doesn't lock them up.

2. When driving at 45mph on a flat road I let off and use the manual override maxing it and it slows the truck to 40mph in just about 4 seconds. It doesn't lock up or even come close. That is with the controller maxed out.

3. When braking heavy with the brake pedal I then engaged the manual levers at 100% and didn't feel any additional braking come in so I assume I'm getting the same level of braking from the pedal.

I adjusted the trailer brakes a couple weeks back so that is all set correctly. So, my next tests will be testing voltage at the hubs this weekend to see what I have. I keep my controller set at full gain all the time to get that level of braking. I feel it isn't as bad as I had recalled but is definitely not as good as it should be since I have to max it out to get less than adequate braking.

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Old 05-07-2016, 06:48 AM   #39
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I didn't notice where you pulled the drums and checked for grease, or anything else inside.
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Old 05-07-2016, 07:19 PM   #40
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Didn't check for grease yet because the emergency brake held very well. I'll be doing that too but I came up with another solution today.

I called the local Tork Lift Central and they will pack the bearings for $225 and included in that is a full brake inspection including wiring and signal diagnostic. I'm just going to do that since I'm running low on free time.

We'll see what the pros have to say.
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Old 05-12-2016, 12:43 PM   #41
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Well, got the verdict from Torklift Central. 3 of the 4 wheels have contaminated brake pads due to blown out grease seals. I haven't greased the bearings since I got it delivered from the factory so ORV blew out my grease seals and contaminated my brakes from the get go. It has always had weak braking so I guess that was the cause.

I'm now spending $700 to replace all the drums and pads.

Not happy.
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Old 05-12-2016, 03:06 PM   #42
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Quote:
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3 of the 4 wheels have contaminated brake pads due to blown out grease seals. I haven't greased the bearings since I got it delivered from the factory so ORV blew out my grease seals and contaminated my brakes from the get go. It has always had weak braking so I guess that was the cause.

I'm now spending $700 to replace all the drums and pads.

Not happy.

You are welcome!

Most likely the kid at the dealership blew the seals. Never use the stupid grease fitting.

Why would you replace the drums, they can be cleaned?

The complete brake assemblies are available for a low cost. It is only 4 or 5 bolts and 2 wiring splices to install.
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