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04-18-2016, 08:00 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 427
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F350 built in brake controller, seems weak
Hi guys,
I've been towing with my 2012 F350 for 3 years or so now. I've always felt the trailer brakes were pretty weak. I have been searching for a while this morning but can't find any info here on whether there is a way to increase the signal from the controller to the trailer brakes. While driving I can pinch the manual brake levers all the way and it tugs a little but not a lot. When stopping on a hill I have to apply quite a bit of brakes to get it to stop well. It seems there should be more contribution from the trailer. I have the controller set to full at 10 and I have properly adjusted the brakes on the trailer twice a year. I have yet to pull the drums to check for contamination. I'll be doing that next but I'm afraid the controller isn't sending enough of a signal to the trailer.
Is this a common problem? Are there ways to increase the signal if that is indeed the issue?
Thanks,
Darren
__________________
TV: 2012 Ford F350 CC 6.7L 4x4
TT: 2014 Wind River 250RDSW [Dual Crown 6v, Trimetric, Iota 15.4v 55A charger]
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04-18-2016, 02:04 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,580
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The Ford controller gives little assist under 10 MPH. This is to reduce jerking.
Of course, check the brakes. The silly grease fittings on the end of the axle often cause grease to get on the brakes. I don't use them.
Some information on brake magnet testing here: Testing Trailer Brake Magnets for Proper Function | etrailer.com
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04-18-2016, 02:21 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lynnmor
The Ford controller gives little assist under 10 MPH. This is to reduce jerking.
Of course, check the brakes. The silly grease fittings on the end of the axle often cause grease to get on the brakes. I don't use them.
Some information on brake magnet testing here: Testing Trailer Brake Magnets for Proper Function | etrailer.com
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Thanks for the info. Even at 40 mph when applying heavy brakes it doesn't seem like the trailer is braking much. I don't have much to compare it to though. I'll check for contaminates like grease on the pads and check the magnets.
__________________
TV: 2012 Ford F350 CC 6.7L 4x4
TT: 2014 Wind River 250RDSW [Dual Crown 6v, Trimetric, Iota 15.4v 55A charger]
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04-18-2016, 02:31 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 60
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My 2015 F350 is set on 4 and seems to work great
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04-18-2016, 02:51 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snickers104
My 2015 F350 is set on 4 and seems to work great
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How much does your trailer weigh? Curious so I can compare. Mine is 8,000 pounds loaded.
__________________
TV: 2012 Ford F350 CC 6.7L 4x4
TT: 2014 Wind River 250RDSW [Dual Crown 6v, Trimetric, Iota 15.4v 55A charger]
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04-18-2016, 03:00 PM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 60
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11500 fully loaded....we run about 10500
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04-18-2016, 04:05 PM
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#7
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Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Denton,tx
Posts: 74
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Ford service manager told me they do run a little under voltage compared to aftermarket and said aftermarket is better. If you have any wear or any type of voltage drop you will notice it on the ford.
__________________
2016 Fleetwood Excursion 35E
ISB 6.7 340hp
TOAD #1 2016 Jeep Rubicon
TOAD #2 1983 Jeep CJ7
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04-18-2016, 04:30 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snickers104
11500 fully loaded....we run about 10500
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Ok, so there is definitely something wrong with my setup. I'll dig in.
__________________
TV: 2012 Ford F350 CC 6.7L 4x4
TT: 2014 Wind River 250RDSW [Dual Crown 6v, Trimetric, Iota 15.4v 55A charger]
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04-18-2016, 04:31 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Digz
Ford service manager told me they do run a little under voltage compared to aftermarket and said aftermarket is better. If you have any wear or any type of voltage drop you will notice it on the ford.
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Good to know. I'd hope I would have decent brakes set at 10 though but not the case. Maybe I'll get lucky and find grease all over the shoes. We'll see.
__________________
TV: 2012 Ford F350 CC 6.7L 4x4
TT: 2014 Wind River 250RDSW [Dual Crown 6v, Trimetric, Iota 15.4v 55A charger]
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04-18-2016, 05:39 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,194
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Could also measure the current at each wheel. My 3500 seemed weak too so I checked the brake mechanicals then verified the current. I believe mine were supposed to be around 3 amps each. They were just under that when measured at each wheel.
Eventually I replaced the entire brake assembly on each wheel and saw no difference. My rig weighs 9400lbs on a scale. The tekonsha prodigy p2 manual says it should lockup the wheels at 25 mph.
I tried that test once and my sticks and alum skin trailer made a hellacious noise but didnt skid. That was good enough for me.
Let us know what you find
__________________
Brian
2016 RAM 3500 6.7L DRW
2018 Chaparral 360IBL, Andersen Ultimate II hitch
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04-18-2016, 06:01 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjlakatos
Could also measure the current at each wheel. My 3500 seemed weak too so I checked the brake mechanicals then verified the current. I believe mine were supposed to be around 3 amps each. They were just under that when measured at each wheel.
Eventually I replaced the entire brake assembly on each wheel and saw no difference. My rig weighs 9400lbs on a scale. The tekonsha prodigy p2 manual says it should lockup the wheels at 25 mph.
I tried that test once and my sticks and alum skin trailer made a hellacious noise but didnt skid. That was good enough for me.
Let us know what you find
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Yeah, there is no way it will lock up the brakes at any speed. I've even pegged the manual override while driving 25mph and it gave a little tug but not much.
__________________
TV: 2012 Ford F350 CC 6.7L 4x4
TT: 2014 Wind River 250RDSW [Dual Crown 6v, Trimetric, Iota 15.4v 55A charger]
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04-18-2016, 06:21 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Wherever we are
Posts: 4,288
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First thing to do, is get set up to tow then pull the e-brake pin and try to tow it. If the trailer moves, there is something wrong with the trailer brakes. The e-brake throws full amps of the battery(s) at the trailer. Just don't leave the pin out too long.
Once you do this, you will know if the problem is the trailer or the IBC.
You can also place VA meter in line with the e-brake line--the amps should be near 12 amps for 4 wheels--another check to see if magnets are taking full power.
Joe
__________________
'16 40QBH Phaeton
'21 Sahara HA toad
'15 38RSSA Mobile Suites--traded
'05 36TK3 Mobile Suites--retired but not forgotten
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04-18-2016, 06:46 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,580
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The Ford controller works just fine, that service manager is probably the one that specified 15 quarts of oil in my 13 quart engine.
Many trailers cannot brake hard enough to slide the tires on pavement. New brake shoes take a long time to seat and work correctly, much longer than the good asbestos linings used in the past. The correct setting will have the trailer not pushing or holding back the truck, it should be "invisible."
Just so you know, the setting is not directly related to the trailer weight. With all the different brake sizes, magnet strengths and friction materials, there is no way to compare your setting to another rig unless it is exactly the same as yours. For example, my travel trailer is set to 6.5 and my snowmobile trailer with the tiny 7" brakes, requires 8.0.
One more thing, the wire size used on most trailers for the brakes is small and creates too much voltage drop. If everything checks out, consider replacing the wire if more braking is desired.
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04-18-2016, 07:12 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: North East Texas
Posts: 4,946
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Digz
Ford service manager told me they do run a little under voltage compared to aftermarket and said aftermarket is better. If you have any wear or any type of voltage drop you will notice it on the ford.
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nope nope nope
he is wrong.
They put out tons of amps.
there is a plug in device they can attach to your 7 pin outlet to check the whole shooting match.
if you squeeze the manual full brake and only get a a soft pull back...you have issues agreed
triple the thought to pull the emergency pull and see if the trailer moves.
i bet the wires to your brakes are using the Scotch locks or similar device to mechanically connect the trailer brake wiring to the axle brakes wiring.
if so , open them up and check the connections, bet its marginal at best and needs to be connected better.
check your trailer plug and see if the wires are corroded
you have great advice, and 90% bet is the trailer side.
__________________
USN Retired, Life time member of the DAV.
Enjoying the 2008 Damon Tuscany 4056, #3998 no your eyes are fine, there are really 6 slides
2022 F150 King Ranch or 2012 Edge toads
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