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Old 08-08-2012, 07:22 PM   #15
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I went to the RV show in west Phoenix, and saw stuff falling or about to fall off of some new 6 digit MHs.
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Old 08-08-2012, 08:33 PM   #16
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Quote:
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...or, "they all do that".

Document everything in triplet. What caused the hubs to come loose? No cotter key?
The cotter pins were in the adjusting nuts, but the axle nut was loose, I mean real loose. I think that they didn't have the bearings seated when they assembled the axle. The axle are made by Lippert Components.
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Old 08-08-2012, 08:48 PM   #17
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All brands appear to have issue we have had our share with our new keystone Bullet.
Roof leak of front seam. repaired 12/11
Front panel had damage due to that water leak and has just been repaired 7/10/2012
Rear axle was bent new axles should be in today 8/8/12 ( been in the shop for 4 weeks)
Gas regulator only worked on one side.
Black tank drain value leaked.
Cabinet door all came lose.

So i feel your pain. I hope you have a good dealer that's taking care of the issues.
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Old 08-08-2012, 09:19 PM   #18
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A good dealer? If I had purchased this trailer new, I'd be talking to a lawyer and let my lawyer explain the situation to them.
I believe resolution would come much sooner.
My objective might be to get a full refund as even repaired, I don't think I would trust that trailer again.
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Old 08-09-2012, 01:43 AM   #19
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Quote:
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The cotter pins were in the adjusting nuts, but the axle nut was loose, I mean real loose. I think that they didn't have the bearings seated when they assembled the axle. The axle are made by Lippert Components.
Ya just can't find good help anymore.

I had my 33' Skyline Nomad toy hauler, 5er for 12 years and the only major malfunction I had was the muffler breaking off my Generac propane generator. I propped it up with some boards and welded it back when I got home. I also had a water heater safety valve that leaked on my 2nd trip, but I just swapped it out with a new one from the dealer when I got home.

Oh, I had some minor "annoyances" like a drain pipe nut that wasn't tightened enough, flat tires and some loose screws, but nothing I would even bother the dealer about.
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Old 08-09-2012, 09:51 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hitchpin View Post
The cotter pins were in the adjusting nuts, but the axle nut was loose, I mean real loose. I think that they didn't have the bearings seated when they assembled the axle. The axle are made by Lippert Components.
QC pass!

No seriously, that's the kind of sloppiness that kills people. Just amazing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Englishman View Post
All brands appear to have issue we have had our share with our new keystone Bullet.
Roof leak of front seam. repaired 12/11
Front panel had damage due to that water leak and has just been repaired 7/10/2012
Rear axle was bent new axles should be in today 8/8/12 ( been in the shop for 4 weeks)
Gas regulator only worked on one side.
Black tank drain value leaked.
Cabinet door all came lose.

So i feel your pain. I hope you have a good dealer that's taking care of the issues.
You guys have me counting my blessings. Just wow.

On my new Koala 20RB it was just:

1.leaving the water pump bypass on. Makes sense since they fill the water system with antifreeze at the factory, but nobody knew this was a standard option.

2. the black tank flush hose working itself loose on the inside of the exterior fitting.

3. Some piece of plywood or something having gotten into the grey water tank, and chewing up the valve.

The stereo's cd player also died on the first trip, but it worked well enough with some percussive maintenance, and you can't really fault Skyline for that.
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Old 08-09-2012, 10:33 AM   #21
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Set your self up a small tool box (not too heavy). Even after your out of warranty, between the poor workmanship, low quality, and just your enviroment whether extrem hot or cold of where you keep your TT stored when not in use, it seems like things just keep breaking. (seals dry up, plastic gets brittle, screws come loose) If your a weekend warrior, you won't find out till your out and about.
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Old 08-29-2012, 10:42 PM   #22
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I would never usually quote a salesman, but when I bought our old Dutchmen Denali, the salesman responded to my questions about Coachmen quality with...

~Ya' know, that's why they call them "Roachmen" ~

Made sense to me after looking at a few Coachmen units on other sales lots...really too bad!
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Old 08-29-2012, 10:47 PM   #23
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All you can say is "wow".
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Old 08-29-2012, 11:35 PM   #24
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We had a '98 Santara motorhome, every trip out I was fixing something. The cabinets seemed to be pressed cardboard with a wood look overlay. Continually stripped out screws. Traded it in on a 2000 Dutch Star MH with hardwood cabinets, what a change!
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Old 08-31-2012, 10:20 AM   #25
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We feel for ya Hitchpin. Sorry your "9 day vacation" turned into work and more work and disappointment. I hope at some time during that time you had some relaxation or you need a vacation from your vacation. You bought a NEW TT so you would not have things to fix. I sure hope they do right by you. Put it all in writing and mail it to the dealer and manufacturer, keep a dated copy and a log of all communication with dealer and Forest River. I wonder if the Attorney General in your state would help. The hub situation put your family in danger.

In our tool box we carry some protection from campground equipment damaging our rig such as a continuity and polarity checker to check the box when we first pull in before we set up (experience taught us to do this first) we have a voltage checker that we plug into an outlet inside the rv too to watch for high and low voltage that can ruin appliances. We also carry a water pressure regulator because some campgrounds have water pressure that can blast your pipes. A surge protector plugged into the campground box with your camper plug attached to that helps too. Get every size of Fuses and lightbulbs for tt and truck you will really appreciate having those on hand when you are out in nowhere.
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Old 08-31-2012, 03:26 PM   #26
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Sounds like you bought a used rig... I have one more job for you before you relax.

GO up on the roof and remove the outer cover from the air conditioner,

now remove the inner covers both from the condenser (The "outside" coils) and the Evaporator (inside) just exactly how to do this varies from A/C model to model, but a phillips Head Screwdriver (#2) will come in handy.

Inspect and clean as needed.. One of the major causes of vibration is mud daubber nests on the fan. Not by any means the only cause, but it is for sure the least expensive to fix.

Clean everythign by the way, Coils, Fan, Blower, Water tray, anything cleanable, and if (And I stress IF) there are lubrication points, take the hint (I doubt there will be any).
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Old 08-31-2012, 08:41 PM   #27
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Every trip in an RV is an adventure. It won't make you feel better but even higher priced RV's have their issues. If I go on a trip and nothing needs to be tightened or fixed I am surprised and suspect something was missed. This week a hose blew open due to extremenly high water pressure. Yes I had a regulator, and no it was the ten dollar model not the $50 one. I tell anyone I know that is interested in owning an rv that they better be good with tools or with a checkbook. Owning a home that roams around the country is bound for the repair shop.

So, you learned that you should own a voltmeter and know how to check the outlets before setting up. Check list should include that. You will absolutely have things break and work loose. I enjoy tinkering and modifying so those things really don't annoy me much. Remember, there are starving children in the world and low water pressure and low power is not really such a bad thing. Join the kids in a wrestling match and have some fun, even if the bed breaks.
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Old 08-31-2012, 09:10 PM   #28
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Sounds like you bought a used rig... I have one more job for you before you relax.

GO up on the roof and remove the outer cover from the air conditioner,

now remove the inner covers both from the condenser (The "outside" coils) and the Evaporator (inside) just exactly how to do this varies from A/C model to model, but a phillips Head Screwdriver (#2) will come in handy.

Inspect and clean as needed.. One of the major causes of vibration is mud daubber nests on the fan. Not by any means the only cause, but it is for sure the least expensive to fix.

Clean everythign by the way, Coils, Fan, Blower, Water tray, anything cleanable, and if (And I stress IF) there are lubrication points, take the hint (I doubt there will be any).
No, it was a new 2012 tt.
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