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Old 05-03-2005, 07:39 AM   #15
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Yes. A spring saddle (actually, a spring perch) is what the welder attached to the top of each end of the axle to allow it to seat against the spring packs when the axle was relocated from above to below the spring packs. A spring leaf is one of the long, narrow steel segments that combine to make up the spring pack to which the axle is bolted with 2 U-bolts on each end of the axle.

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Old 05-03-2005, 08:37 AM   #16
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I agree that you may want to put a little weight in it and see how it rides.I have done the same as you on my last trailer and it rode fine.Keep us posted
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Old 05-03-2005, 05:50 PM   #17
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You should also be aware of your speed while towing a lighter weight trailer. I have seen what you describe as trailer bounce with empty gasoline tank trailers. The faster the speed the more noticeable the bounce becomes. If you experience this while towing, reduce your speed gradually so you can maintain control.
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Old 05-03-2005, 06:02 PM   #18
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suebruce:

Just waana re-itenerate...don't think for a minute you're frustrating anyone here...we're here to help, and in this particular instance, you can be assured there's a whole bunch of people that can steer ya right...just not me. But you've found a great bunch of people, and the staff works overtime to make sure of that. Post away with anything that you have questions about...

Welcome to iRV2! We're here to help.
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Old 05-04-2005, 05:58 AM   #19
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Baddwalk, thanks for the comment about speed. In this case I don't think it was a factor as I was driving on a back road from my house so I was never going faster than 60 km/hour.

WWFan, thank you for your good wishes. I am starting to think though from what everyone has shared so far that with me lack of understanding... and as well, going over the notes I made from the mechanic... the actual work he did was flip the axle and weld new saddles. My thinking that saddles and springs were one and the same is where my confusion started.

I do now need some clarification of what nose down and nose up means in order to take some of this feedback and trouble shoot. What is the nose? Is this the tongue of the trailer or the front of the truck?

I am going to get the trailer on Saturday morning and take a better look at how it looks hooked up. So I will start with visual, and see if my hitch needs adjusting. if not I will move on to trying to load it up and take a ride.

The welder that did the work is only open Monday to Friday so it is going to be a trick getting him to take a look as I work the same hours as him. But I'll see if he says it would be ok to bring it by on Sunday and then Monday I can stop by on my way home and hitch up and have him take a look.
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Old 05-04-2005, 06:03 AM   #20
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As well, on my truck's driver door the weights are broken down by front and rear axle. Do I add these numbers together? Is there a significance. I am trying to confirm for my own peace of mind that I have all my weights figured out and I am not over the limit of wrecking my Sub. The trailer I have is one of the old ones so it weighs quite a bit compared to the newer ones. The exact weight has slipped my mind and I need to look at that again when I pick it up as well, but I thought if I made sure I got someone to explain the truck numbers to me... then it will be easy to do my calculations once I get the final number from my trailer and as well, try to figure out how much wieght is added when I have it all loaded up.
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Old 05-04-2005, 06:04 AM   #21
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Nose down or nose up was a reference to the trailer attitude. If the trailer is nose down, the tongue will be low - the trailer looks higher in the rear than the front.

Hope this helps - again, good luck in getting your problem sorted out!

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Old 05-04-2005, 06:21 AM   #22
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Your door tag should have three numbers on it:

GVWR - Gross Vehicle Weight Rating - this is the maximum amount of weight that the vehicle is rated to carry. It will include the vehicle (with all options and accessories), fuel, occupants, cargo and the tongue weight of the trailer.

GAWR (front) - Gross Axle Weight Rating (front) - this is the maximum amount of weight that can be carried by the front wheels (i.e., the sum of the weights carried by each of the individual front wheels)

GAWR (rear) - Gross Axle Weight Rating (rear) - same as above, but for the rear wheels

Now, load up your Suburban and trailer just like you'll be hitting the road. Be sure the fuel tank is full, you have all the passengers, dogs, firewood, toys, and everything else on board. Find a truck stop with a 3-platform scale and pull onto the scale such that the Suburban's front wheels are on the front platform (steer axle), the Suburban's rear wheels are on the center platform (drive axle) and the trailer's wheels are on the rear platform (trailer axles). Follow the instructions on the scales to get your weight recorded. When you go inside, the weighmaster will give you a ticket with either 3 or 4 numbers, and you'll probably pay him between $5 and $10 for weighing the Suburban and trailer.

Steer axle weight - this should be less than your GAWR (front)

Drive axle weight - this should be less than your GAWR (rear)

Trailer axle weight - this should be less than your total GAWR as shown on the trailer's rating sticker (normally on the road [driver's] side of the trailer toward the front)

Total weight - the sum of the three weights above. If this isn't on the ticket, just add up the three weights for use below.

The sum of your steer axle weight and drive axle weight should be less than your Suburban's GVWR.

One more thing to check - the total weight should be less than your Suburban's GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating). This may be in your owner's manual in the Trailer Towing section, or it may be on the window sticker (the Mulroney or new vehicle list price sticker) that came with the vehicle.

Hope this helps - let us know if you have questions.

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Old 05-04-2005, 06:30 AM   #23
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Another thought is the hitch. If the weight distributing hitch is being used in the same chain locations as before this could be throwing off the "levelness" of the combo.
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