Go Back   iRV2 Forums > TRAVEL TRAILER, 5th WHEEL & TRUCK CAMPER FORUMS > Travel Trailer Discussion
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-13-2014, 03:11 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,232
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanFromGC View Post
So, I'm on my first TT, and just starting the second year. I've never hand packed the bearings of anything, but watched some videos this morning as recommended here. I know there are two camps, one that says never ever ever pump grease, only hand pack. And the other camp says nothing wrong with pumping, that's the way it is designed.

My question, and this is not to be snarky, I just want to know.... If the main argument against pumping seems to be that you may blow the back seal and contaminate the brakes, wouldn't you use the same cleaners you use to clean the grease off the bearings and spindles to clean up the brake drums? Seems like you would be pulling it all apart anyway and replacing the seals and hand packing the bearings if you blow a seal. Again, with no experience, I'm just curious. I'm fairly mechanically inclined and change my own brakes on my cars/trucks. So, when it's time I will watch the videos again and tackle the hand packing. But, if pumping grease is what dexter recommends, why would I not do that?
You CAN clean off the brake hub surfaces, and get the grease off. But not with brake pad linings. It is in the pores, and that's it. You clean the surface off, then when they heat up, more leaks out, and so on.
The brake magnet has bigger holes that can be cleaned out but some grease may still be left.

That's why I don't ever risk it.
__________________

__________________
jesilvas is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 06-15-2014, 09:40 AM   #16
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 36
Take rig to competent tire store. Tell them to clean, inspect, repack, balance, rotate. If you do not trust them, find one you do trust.

Return pick up rig, pay the man.
__________________

__________________
2014 Chevy 2500HD
2014 Keystone Laredo 314RE
Bob Weis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2014, 09:37 PM   #17
Senior Member
 
Superslif's Avatar
 
Thor Owners Club
Pond Piggies Club
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: NE. Ohio USA
Posts: 4,707
Thanx,

I used to have the local trailer shop repack them every two years. Used to be $100 for two axles (2006) , then $140, now $320...So doing a grease job myself will save many $$$$.Checked a few different shops and all quoted $300+.
__________________
Jim, Diane & Robert ~ NE. OH.
2018 Outdoors RV Timber Ridge 24 RKS
2014 Toyota Tundra Limited 5.7L
IRV2 Photo Album ~Let's Go Places~
Superslif is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2014, 01:47 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
bjlakatos's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 886
http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wheelbearingpack.aspx
__________________
Brian
2016 RAM 3500 6.7L DRW
2018 Chaparral 360IBL, Andersen Ultimate II hitch
bjlakatos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2014, 02:44 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Ca
Posts: 1,050
Good "how to" videos at etrailer. Thanks.
__________________
timetogo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2014, 03:11 PM   #20
Senior Member
 
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lowell, Arkansas
Posts: 4,691
My 40 years experience with brake bearings is this: When is was standard practice to pack front wheel bearings because just about 100% of vehicles required it we only packed them when a brake job was required. That varied from 20,000 to 40,000 miles. DID ALL OF YOU UNDERSTAND WHAT I SAID????? We didn't pack bearings every year, or even two years but based it on mileage or if we were removing the drums/rotors to perform a brake job.

I have never understood why the TT industry requires that they be done every year or 12,000 miles. Yes electric brakes are another issue. I do understand inspections. Also the viscosity of the lube that is used in those grease guns is very thin. It has to be thin to pass through the small hole in the axle, down through the hub, pass through the inner bearing, turn 180 degrees and travel back out the hub to the hub nut. It has to be thin. That makes it easier to blow out through the inner seal also.

The EZ-LUBE hubs are a roll over from the boat trailer industry. With a boat trailer you are backing into the water and I can understand pumping some grease into the hub. Are some of you aware that a lot of boat trailers don't have electric brakes?? Blowing out the rear seal on a trailer with no brakes is a non-issue. You won't do any damage to brake linings.

AS stated if you do get grease on the linings they are ruined. If you get grease on the drums they are also ruined. Cast iron is also porous and will absorb the grease. When you put the new linings on they will also be effected by the grease absorbed in the drums. Grease on a brake drum will effect the coefficient of friction and therefore the brakes. You don't have to believe me just do some research.

In the Auto/truck/RV repair industry just because that is what is done by most shops does not make it correct or the latest or the greatest based on the current trends or changes in technology.

I would never take the chance and use the grease gun method on any trailer. Hand pack with a good synthetic (that reflects the current changes in technology) correctly preload the bearings and then adjust the bearing clearance to .001-.003. Then do it again in about 2-3 years.

In 40 years of doing and teaching this method I never experienced a wheel bearing failure.

TeJay
__________________
TeJay Auto Instructor/4-yrs USAF/ Liz: RN/ WBGO 2014 Vista 30T/ F-53/CHF/5-Star/Koni * Bella & Izzy * Golden /Cocker mix/ Louie The Cat* All Retired
TeJay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2014, 07:11 AM   #21
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,330
I agree with most of what TeJay just wrote. One thing that needs mentioned is the size and quality of wheel bearings on trailers. If you compare the bearings in motor vehicles produced in the past to the small, cheap imported trailer bearings you will see that their might be a problem.

While cast iron drums are porous, I believe that they can be cleaned well enough for continued use.
__________________
lynnmor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2014, 09:10 AM   #22
Senior Member
 
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lowell, Arkansas
Posts: 4,691
lynnmor,
I don't disagree with your assessment of the size of the wheel bearings or the quality but if the size is incorrect that is again a manufacturer trying to get by with just barely enough. So we are back to installing axles that are 1,000 to 1,500 LBS over the maximum the TT should ever be loaded. They won't do it nor seem to offer that as an option for those who just might use their TT more than just a few camping trips a year.

That also seems to be a big issue. How many TT are purchased and used 8-10 times a summer season versus those that are purchased for FT use??? I believe better than 80% of TT's purchased end up beside the barn or out in a field before then end of the 3rd or 4th season. So the manufacturers are saying why build a unit for FT use. I'm saying why not offer some decent up-grades during the build so the consumer has a choice.

We have a 2014 WBGO. I would have loved to have and pay for the option of having an air ride suspension installed at the factory. That option was not offered. With WBGO's buying power it would have cost me a lot less than having it done aftermarket. I've researched TT axles. Increasing from say 3,000 axles to 4,500 axles would cost less than $600-$800 bucks. Add the larger tires and rims, shocks and you're probably looking at maybe 1,000 bucks. To do that aftermarket would be $2,000-$4,000. I read about guys who have done it on other forums and that's what they have said it costs them to upgrade.

TeJay
__________________
TeJay Auto Instructor/4-yrs USAF/ Liz: RN/ WBGO 2014 Vista 30T/ F-53/CHF/5-Star/Koni * Bella & Izzy * Golden /Cocker mix/ Louie The Cat* All Retired
TeJay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2014, 07:27 PM   #23
Senior Member
 
IdahoBob's Avatar
 
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Pasco, WA
Posts: 1,177
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cumminsfan View Post
Pump in the new grease till the old starts to come out the front. If the old doesn't come out the front then it's probably oozing out the rear seal.
And then of course it is too late. As I learned on my first try. I'll NEVER do that again!

Bob
__________________
2014 Wind River 250RDSW
2010 Ram 3500 CTD 4X4
Pasco, WA
IdahoBob is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2014, 07:15 AM   #24
Senior Member
 
bjlakatos's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 886
Do you lube the part of the seal that touches the axle?
__________________
Brian
2016 RAM 3500 6.7L DRW
2018 Chaparral 360IBL, Andersen Ultimate II hitch
bjlakatos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2014, 07:19 AM   #25
Senior Member
 
bjlakatos's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 886
I did the outer bearings and brakes this weekend. The dexter manual was wrong so I ordered the incorrect seals. They should be here today. So I will probably do the inner bearings and seals this week. It will be good to take a look behind the hub again to see if the seal blew. ;-)
__________________
Brian
2016 RAM 3500 6.7L DRW
2018 Chaparral 360IBL, Andersen Ultimate II hitch
bjlakatos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2014, 07:21 AM   #26
Senior Member
 
bjlakatos's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 886
I used the lisle 65250 bearing packer and it could not have been easier.
__________________
Brian
2016 RAM 3500 6.7L DRW
2018 Chaparral 360IBL, Andersen Ultimate II hitch
bjlakatos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2014, 11:40 AM   #27
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,232
Quote:
Originally Posted by bjlakatos View Post
Do you lube the part of the seal that touches the axle?
You don't lube any of the seal.
__________________
jesilvas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2014, 08:47 PM   #28
Senior Member
 
IdahoBob's Avatar
 
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Pasco, WA
Posts: 1,177
Quote:
Originally Posted by jesilvas View Post
You don't lube any of the seal.
As one carefully adds fresh grease via the zerk fitting in exact accordance with the manufacturer's manual, the grease squeezes through the interstices of the bearings following the paths of least resistance. And should the least resistance path be between the seal and the spindle, the seal gets liberally lubricated literally. Along with the brake linings and drum. Oh happy day....

Bob
__________________

__________________
2014 Wind River 250RDSW
2010 Ram 3500 CTD 4X4
Pasco, WA
IdahoBob is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
seal



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Clay based grease? jonohio Monaco Owner's Forum 8 06-05-2014 03:24 PM
replacing slideout seals Alleyman National RV Owner's Forum 1 04-29-2014 09:20 AM
Grease fittings on steering linkages? smlranger Country Coach Owners Forum 3 03-23-2014 09:09 PM
What type grease? Vtxbiker Alpine Coach Owner's Forum 8 03-15-2014 08:29 PM
Wiggly slideout seals! Stan&Jacquie RV Systems & Appliances 4 01-24-2014 08:03 AM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:29 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.