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Old 02-13-2012, 11:19 AM   #1
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Grey water waste valve fix

Has anyone had to replace their waste water valve for the grey water tank? The pull handle on mine just pulled completely out last trip out and I couldn't get it to reconnect with the internal parts. Found new replacement valve online for a few $ and purchased. Looks like it may be a somewhat "easy" fix. But then again, it looks like it has the potential to get very messy if the tank isn't empty. At least it's only the grey tank! Any hints for this diy newbie?
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Old 02-14-2012, 08:32 AM   #2
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You can google rv waste valves and come up with other options....Here's one. I have a 'new to us' that has the valve for the kitchen leaking and will need to replace it soon. Have done them before and not that big a deal....as long as it's not the black, unless you have a place to empty and rinse the tank first.
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Old 02-14-2012, 09:23 AM   #3
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Most are just 4 bolts and nuts, then the valve slides out from between the pipes. I suggest when replacing, use Stainless Steel bolts and nuts.

I only had to remove 2 bolts and loosen the other two.
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Old 02-20-2012, 07:51 PM   #4
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this is generally a pretty easy fix for someone with even limited DIY mechanical ability. since yours broke, is the tank full or did you get it drained? even though it's just gray water, make sure to use your disposable gloves and wear your eye protection. do you have a portable tote? if it was me, i'd put my tote under it, and loosen the bottom bolts first to let it start to slowly drain. it will take a little longer, but be much easier to control.
good luck!
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Old 02-20-2012, 08:07 PM   #5
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Yep, it's pretty straight forward to replace the valve... IF the tanks are empty. If not, it could be trouble.

I would HIGHLY recommend replacing both valves instead of just the one that broke... for obvious reasons. They're pretty cheap ($15) and I replace mine every couple of years just to avoid ugly problems.

Good luck.

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Old 02-21-2012, 01:35 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by papachaz57
this is generally a pretty easy fix for someone with even limited DIY mechanical ability. since yours broke, is the tank full or did you get it drained? even though it's just gray water, make sure to use your disposable gloves and wear your eye protection. do you have a portable tote? if it was me, i'd put my tote under it, and loosen the bottom bolts first to let it start to slowly drain. it will take a little longer, but be much easier to control.
good luck!
I got it drained luckily, but like you said, I'll have a tote ready. Thanks.
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Old 02-21-2012, 12:47 PM   #7
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One suggestion is to take a very long screw (not big around but long) and shove it in the hole the rod came out of.. Using a screwdriver drive it into the gate valve, Now pull to open.

Now that the tank is empty.... Continue with repair via the obvious method.

There are worse jobs.

A few weeks ago I replaced the flush ball in my Sealand Model 111.. alas the seals were also damaged and I got them elsewhere (they arrived today) I just installed them

Looks a bit like new now. Just a few steps to go and I'm done with toilet repair YIPPIE.

(I need to wax the bowl.. Yes wax, makes stuff slide down the hole better)
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Old 02-21-2012, 01:31 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wizard View Post
Most are just 4 bolts and nuts, then the valve slides out from between the pipes. I suggest when replacing, use Stainless Steel bolts and nuts.

I only had to remove 2 bolts and loosen the other two.

X2
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Old 02-21-2012, 03:58 PM   #9
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DoubleJ73, I would also suggest that once you get the old valve assyb out, that you apply a little vasoline jelly to the new seals. It will help hold them in place while you are installing the new assyb. Also leave all the bolts lose until you have the all in and the tighten them in a criss cross until nice and snug. Jm2c worth. Also X 2 on replacing both vavle while you are at it.
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