Hot water heater?

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by realjet

I've never tried using the propane with the hot water heater just the electric. I noticed when I turn the propane tank on I can smell propane around the hot water heater.

Use a soapy solution in spray bottle and check propane line/gas valve fitting for leak

(Spray bottle fill with water and then add 4-5 drops of dish soap....spray on fittings and look for bubbles)


Fire up water heater on propane and let it heat to shut off then do the smell test around water heater

Originally Posted by cavie

When to turn on gas, the red light will come on until the heater lights then go out.

RED light on Atwood only comes on/stays on when a FAULT occurs


Suburban uses the ON when turning 'gas' on the OFF when flame lights and back ON if flame fails

[tuffr2]

My trailer heating water with electric can heat the water in less than 30 minutes. I typically hear with electric and not propane.

I just got done boondocking. I would run a generator to heat the water when needed. Just a habit it guess.

[realjet]

We'll I turned on the propane and it lit. Heated up the water great. I've attached two pictures. One is while heating up. The other is after. Should that flame still burn in the second picture?

[whem2fish]

No it should not

[realjet]

I didn't think so. Not sure on how to fix it. I was thinking about blocking up the connection where the propane comes in and just using the electric. (See pic) If I keep the propane open to use the heat and stove you can smell the propane.

[Reevesfamily]

Great advice here, but I had to say it . . . . why are you heating your hot water with a hot water heater? Water heater, or more accurately generally a Cold water heater.

[realjet]

Originally Posted by Reevesfamily

Great advice here, but I had to say it . . . . why are you heating your hot water with a hot water heater? Water heater, or more accurately generally a Cold water heater.

Good one[emoji3]

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by Reevesfamily

Great advice here, but I had to say it . . . . why are you heating your hot water with a hot water heater? Water heater, or more accurately generally a Cold water heater.

Originally Posted by realjet

Good one[emoji3]

Actually.........
After the initial heating cycle all other heating cycles are heating HOT water

Water temp drops to 110*F and then t-stat closes to heat up that HOT water to a hotter temp (140*F)
SO YES.....
It is a Hot Water Heater






OP......
Your gas valve is leaking thru after the heating cycle has completed
T-stat Opens and circuit bd drops DC off gas valve solenoids to shut off propane flow BUT valve is leaking thru allowing small amount of propane to continue to burn.....even burning inside burner tube (see visible flame thru air shutter)


Need to replace gas valve and burner tube.......both are in bad shape


If you disconnect propane line AT the inlet side of gas valve you will need a 3/8" gas plug to block the propane.
Then you will NOT have propane leaking BUT will only be able to heat via Electric IF you have 120V AC Power AND IF the electric works.


Just fix the propane and retain BOTH options for your HOT Water Heater

[realjet]

Update on water heater. Early in the morning I noticed the red light was on. So I shut the unit off (propane side). Went outside and noticed water coming out of the pressure relief valve.

We let it cool down for a few hours. We went and got a plug to plug up the propane. I switched the electric side on and it seemed to be ok. After a while the light came on and a small amount of water was coming out of the pressure relief valve.

So now I just turn the electric side of the water heater on before using it then shut it off when finished.

Seems like the water is overheating now. Should I replace the thermostat and connections?

This camper is in a permanent campground now with electric hooked up.

Also I have another question. I noticed a white and red hose going into the camper near the water city water connection and holding tanks. What is this for?"

[Bertrrr]

Lots of times these valves go to leaking after the first time they pop open, I would just buy another and swap it out, the seat is either cut or there is rust or something keeping it from re seating.
I usually shut my unit off after use anyway, it heats up in just a few minutes when you need it anyway.

[Old-Biscuit]

T&P Relief Valve weeping....
Loss of air pocket in top of tank
Air pocket helps control pressure increases from heating water....water swells when heated. Water can not be compressed so w/o air pocket the pressure will increase enough to cause T&P Relief Valve to weep (125psi)
*Turn off water supply...open faucet (hotside) to relieve pressure
*Open T&P via lever.....hold open until water stops running out
*Let T&P SNAP closed
*Close Faucet---turn on water supply


T&P will also weep if water is overheated.
T-stat OPENS at 140*F/Closes 110*F...to control heating cycles
ECO (Energy Cut Off---High temp t-stat) OPENS at 180*F to shutdown heating should T-stat Fail (Triggers RED Fault Light also)


Your FAULT light came on........first when using propane and then when using electric.
YOUR T-stat AND ECO need replaced (come as a set)
T-stat/ECO will look the same---t-stat has smaller spade terminals so you can't hook them up wrong when changing.


And even though the trailer is parked permanently with hookups (electric) you should think about replacing gas valve/burner tube so propane side is functional.




As for those 2 capped off lines
HOT and COLD Low Point Drains

[charliez]

I would drain it, flush it out, then refill it. Most likely, you'l never be able to unscrew the relief valve. They are sealed in there good and its hard to get enough leverage without bending or busting something else.


If you look at your pic with just the pilot burning, you can see the flame burning up into the tube. A dangerous thing. Most likely, your to the point that this whole thing may need to be replaced soon. It looks like it's in horrible condition.