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Old 02-19-2012, 08:18 AM   #29
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WOW nadkaw1957, you have been busy! I would love to see some pictures of your transfer switch for the inverter..

I installed a 2 gallon accumulator tank and took a few pics in the process...

I got it done on 02/14, thanks to the agreeable weather! Please forgive the crappy cell phone pics... I forgot the camera..

I had originally planned on mounting it to the floor, but that would have blocked access to the back of the converter and breaker box. Under the shower, was some 3/4' OSB and the perfect spot for mounting the tank. I used two pieces of pipe strap and some of the square head screws from a wrecked Sunline 299SR, that I parted out.. When I drew the screws down (Or is it up?) the straps got very tight. They hold the tank very securely!



I mounted the tank, so that I would have easy access to the air valve stem.



I then triple checked, to make sure I cut the city water inlet pipe and not the black tank flush pipe... I pulled the braided line into position where I thought it would be best and cut the line for the tee.



I still have a bunch of the blue PEX from the 299 and used some on this mod. I crimped the tee on one end of the piece and the new valve on the other.



I then crimped the new piece into the existing line.



I hooked the braided line to the valve and it's done! (Except for cleaning up the antifreeze.)



I left the valve turned off, until I get the chance to check for leaks in the PEX and in my water heater mod.
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Old 02-19-2012, 08:27 AM   #30
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I also had a problem, where the pocket door between the living/kitchen area and the bedroom/bathroom area. When the door was opened fully, it smashed the heat duct going to the bedroom. I had to remove the water heater and one of the fittings was damage in the removal process. It looked like a perfect opportunity for another mod!

I ended up cutting the old water heater bypass off and then crimping 1/2" pex to 1/2" MNPT fittings to the lines. I then used some faucet supply lines, to hook the pex to the new water heater bypass connections. I'll let the pictures show how I did it.







Since the weather hasn't warmed up yet, I pressure tested using antifreeze. I thought the reduced diameter of the faucet supply lines would reduce the flow of hot water, but they really didn't! I let the faucet run for a few seconds, to bleed out the air in the lines and the flow was great!
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Old 02-20-2012, 01:32 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EMD_Driver View Post
WOW nadkaw1957, you have been busy! I would love to see some pictures of your transfer switch for the inverter..
LOL - yes I have - all things I thought I needed to do. I don't have any pictures of the switch, but here's a drawing of the wiring...



I took a 120V DPDT relay (Radio Shack has this one 125VAC/10A DPDT Plug-In Relay - RadioShack.com) and wired it so that whenever I have shore power or have the generator running, the relay is active and feeds 120V to the TV. When 120V is absent, the relay feeds power from the inverter to the TV. It's all enclosed in a project box and wired directly to a receptacle I installed in the cabinet where the TV and DVD are plugged in.
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Old 02-23-2012, 07:15 PM   #32
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The longer you keep a trailer the more mods will be made. The single largest for our 31' Rockwood 8314SS was rebuilding the entertainment center (made for old style deep TVs) and installed a 32" flat screen plus a DVR. Now am thinking about further mods to this same cabinet, by installing a washer/dryer in the cabinet under the TV. Always gotta have a project.
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