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Old 12-29-2013, 02:46 PM   #15
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I did pretty much the same thing you're looking to do with some slight variations. Here is a schematic of my layout


I went with the Magnum Inverter/Charger, IMO one of the best on the market and made in the USA. I decided to power all the outlets in the coach so I wasn't limited to which outlet I wanted to use. Of course you will not run the AC, but I can run almost anything else including the microwave as long as I use common sense, meaning only use micro for warming or making popcorn. DW can use hairdryer and curling iron and we'll watch a little TV in the evenings. Hence the reason why I wanted all the outlets powered. You still need to practice battery conservation, but it can be done.


I also upgraded my batteries and went with 4 Trojan 6 volts. I keep them charged with a Champion 2000W generator when needed. My plan is to eventually go to solar for charging while boondocking.


I would recommend you add a good battery monitor to your shopping list. I added a Trimetric RV2025. So important that you know how much power you're using and your battery state of charge.


As stated in previous posts you want your inverter as close to the batteries as possible and use the biggest wire possible. I went with 4/0 welders cable from the inverter to the batteries. Made my AC runs with 10/2 Romex w/ground. I ran the romex under the trailer attached with clips screwed to the frame. You can use split loom or flex conduit to protect the wire. Took the wire through the pass through floor, to the back of the trailer and then up through the floor where the load center is located. I bypassed the converter completely. Everything is handled through the Magnum. When on shore power or generator the AC passes through the Magnum and powers the coach as well as charges the batteries. The DC is always hot whether on shore/generator, inverting or no AC at all. If something was to happen to the inverter I can flip the breaker back on for the converter to handle charging needs.

In addition to the links posted previously I would recommend these as good reads also. They are geared towards solar, but contain a lot of information that will help you.
Handy Bob's Blog
Jack & Danielle Mayer
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Old 12-29-2013, 04:23 PM   #16
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Thanks for the info. I have a trimetric and upgraded Crown 6v batteries with an Iota charger. I'm pretty much set up for dry camping with the exception of the inverter. I can't spend $1,000 - $2000 on an inverter and already have a high quality charger so thought of going with a less expensive option, the only problem is they have GFCI outlets which generally have problems tripping when connected to shore power.

I don't have welder cable in my system but I used high quality copper, forgot the size, will have to double check but I have little loss as measured from my Trimetric while charging. I was thinking of tapping into those same cables my charger is using in the pass through and splitting them in the pass through where the charger is so I can use the same cables for the inverter and charger with a switch between the two.

Your setup looks really nice. Wish I had the extra cash to go all out but thought a 2000 watt lesser inverter would be fine since I will only need it once in a while. I do like the Magnum line but entry level for Pure Sine Wave is $1,000. My main TV is LED 12v and the hair dryer is a once a day thing. We don't really use the microwave, even on shore power. Not sure which inverter I'll be able to go with though. Might have to suck it up.

I've been talking with Bob quite a bit, he helped me design my battery/charging setup.
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Old 01-02-2014, 12:13 AM   #17
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I went with a Samlex 2000W PSW and Im very happy with it. Dont skimp on the wiring. I run a pair of 2/0 copper cables for each terminal from my battery bank. Also, a battery post fuse is important. I use a 300A MRBF fuses like this one: Blue Sea Systems 5191 Single Fuse Block for Terminal Fuses

I can run my microwave on mine just fine but it will pull a pair of GC2 batteries down to 11 volts while running so it tends to low voltage fault in cold weather if the batteries are below 80 percent charge. I parallel in a pair of group 24 marine start batteries if I need to run a heavy inverter load. You really need at least 4 2GCs or a pair of gp27 marine start batteries at the minimum because a 2kw inverter is going to pull around 200 amps at peak load. Its a matter of plate area more than amp hour capacity. 2GCs really are only designed for a 75 amp load per battery.
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Old 01-02-2014, 09:42 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bartlettj View Post
I went with a Samlex 2000W PSW and Im very happy with it. Dont skimp on the wiring. I run a pair of 2/0 copper cables for each terminal from my battery bank. Also, a battery post fuse is important. I use a 300A MRBF fuses like this one: Blue Sea Systems 5191 Single Fuse Block for Terminal Fuses

I can run my microwave on mine just fine but it will pull a pair of GC2 batteries down to 11 volts while running so it tends to low voltage fault in cold weather if the batteries are below 80 percent charge. I parallel in a pair of group 24 marine start batteries if I need to run a heavy inverter load. You really need at least 4 2GCs or a pair of gp27 marine start batteries at the minimum because a 2kw inverter is going to pull around 200 amps at peak load. Its a matter of plate area more than amp hour capacity. 2GCs really are only designed for a 75 amp load per battery.
That fuse block is pretty cool, why did you choose 300A? Wouldn't 100A be sufficient? I'm just curious for the amp rating.

Does the Samlex have 110 out or GFCI outlets?
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Old 01-05-2014, 10:10 AM   #19
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He's got a 2,000 watt inverter. 2,000 watts/ 11 volts =182 amps. So no, 100A isn't even close to enough.
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