I'd like to enroll in TT University please

[realdusi]

So my mind is made up. I will be buying a TT and I will be full time RVing. This is incredibly overwhelming since I own a truck, but have not towed anything! Ever! My step dad has started taking me out once a week to practice towing his 10' flatbed, and let me tell you it's not easy for me! I'm am doing my research, obsessively I might add, and the more I read the more questions I have.

I have a 2007 Nissan Frontier Nismo edition.

• Engine: Gas V6 4.0L/241
• Horsepower: 261 @ 5600
• Torque: 281 @ 4000 4.0L/241
• Max tow: 6,500lbs

It's paid for, well maintained, and I plan on driving it into the ground (but hopefully not burning up my transmission in the first year!).


I will probably need to upgrade some things on it. Been reading NISMO forums and they recommend sway bars and brakes. Any recommendations for in person advice? My sister mentioned UHaul or someone who installs hitches.


I've been looking at travel trailers. I will be solo RVing, parked in campgrounds more often than boondocking. For the first year I'd be parked for 4-6 months in a location, than after that taking 13+ week contracts where I'd have to live with the occasional long weekend (3-4 days tops) boondocking. Realistically I'd like my dry trailer weight to be about 3,500lbs with a max weight (and I do mean max) of 5,000lbs. I've read on other forums that this is doable for my truck where others say that this weight is way to much. With that kind of weight limit I'm looking at ~20-24' travel trailers that may or may not have a slide.

• Hard Limits:
  
• Queen size bed: I need a full time bed, none of this converting stuff every night as I plan on FT.
• Real Bathroom: I do not want a "wet bath". A separate shower (tub or standing doesn't matter) and toilet are a must. Rear bathrooms are preferred as it gives me more bathroom space.
• Guest bed: I have one friend who has already promised me that she will come and visit me. While I plan on solo RVing, it'd be nice to have the option to convert to a 1-2 person additional sleeping space.
• Newer used ~$20,000: Less would be nice, but it needs to be new enough to be allowed into campgrounds/RV parks and not need too much up front maintenance, but old enough to where I don't feel bad with some interior DIY. Why are all RV's brown on brown on brown!? Whatever I get will probably get a paint job ASAP.

Things that I have been contemplating are slides or no slides. A slide would be nice to give me a little more leg room, but even if it's not slid out I would still need to be able to get from my bed to the bathroom without climbing over a dinette or couch. I hear both sides of the argument from those with and those without, and also read a lot about repairs, maintenance and safety issues with slides. I thought I was set on a larger fridge (not full size, but bigger than a mini fridge). I'm not so sure if that's a hard limit now. The less food I carry with me the more likely I am to eat what I have and be less wasteful. As far as the kitchen goes, I'm leaning more toward a range with an oven. I'm finding I'm baking more than I originally thought and a toaster oven would just take up too much counter space real estate. I know I'll be traveling with a coffee maker, instant pot, and magic bullet style blender as I use those every day. Since most RV's in my size/weight range have little to no counter space I'm not sure where they'd live other than in a cabinet. I will be traveling with a cat, and down the road plan on adopting a dog (just put my fur child dog to sleep earlier this year). If I'm not boondocking it often, will my critters roast in an RV if I'm hooked up to power in a RV lot? Can I run the a/c full time like in a house? I plan on being a snowbird - Somewhere cooler in the summer and Florida for the winter as my family is here and holidays with them are a must. The RV must also not feel like a cave. I'd like windows, but I know they make keeping an RV cool/warm difficult.



My main questions at this point are:

• How does one learn to park, level, hitch and un-hitch a vehicle?
  
• Where's the best place or websites to research long term RV parking/living in different areas of the US?
  
• What makes/models are considered higher quality vs low quality? (I'm looking for the Fords/Toyotas/Nissans/Hondas of the RV world - good for entry level and fairly reliable)
• Any additional reading or places I can visit to get information?

Here's my intro post (http://www.irv2.com/forums/f61/so-i-...re-365187.html) that tells a little bit about me, where I currently reside, and what my job is.
The two models that I've seen in person and really like are 2014 Coachman Apex Ultra-Lite 22QBS & 2014 Shasta Flyte 215CK. They each have pros and cons, but the biggest issue is I have zero knowledge on either of these other than my walk through and the fact that my grandma owned a Shasta when my mom was younger. Any information is appreciated!!

[Freqz]

The important things are (1) that you understand no RV is perfect, (2) you generally get what you pay for so like sized/priced units are typically of similar quality, (3) floor plan is pretty much the most important factor, and (4) the max weight of trailer you can handle is *drastically* different from the tow rating of your tow vehicle.

[Cumminsfan]

I towed a 21'Lx7wx9'9"h TT that weighed 4050lbs loaded with an 06 Frontier 2wd V6 AT. I hated every minute of it. It pretty much ran out of steam at 65 mph. Shouldn't be towing that fast with that setup but I just wanted to see what the Nissan could do. In the hills it was slow. on the flats it was ok. Averaged about 8.5-9 mpg. Mostly 8.5. With the 21 gal IIRC tank that only gave us 178 miles to empty. Which means you start looking at 120 miles.
You also have to run with OD off. So if you're wondering how that sounds and feels, just hit the freeway or hwy and leave it in 4th.
Handling was good most of the time. It was mainly the lack of power that really ruined the trips. Only towed 4-5 times with the Frontier then traded it on an 08 F150 5.4 3.73 4sp AT.
That was a sweet combo. Smooth tow and 10.5 mpg. Nothing like having too much truck.
If I were you I'd stay with something like an R-Pod type. The Coachman would be at my limit. The Shasta, no way. You also need to look at the frontal specs for the Nissan. They have a limit on it.

[richamor]

I'm just gonna say it........you don't have enough truck for the TT you're looking for. A full bath, sleeps 2 adults real world, queen beds, all come at the cost of size. You want to live it not keep running into yourself in it.

Looking to spend 20 grand I'd put 5 with the Nissan and buy a full size V8. Then you have the rest for a TT and some setup costs. And a nice used TT for less than 10G's that would fit your needs is as easy as looking the the local Craigslist.

As for the driving, towing, parking, all the other fun stuff I can't help you. But if you can get it to the campground there will be folks glad to help. That I can assure you.

[keymastr]

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but that will not be enough truck for full-timing even with a smaller trailer. You need a truck with at least a 1500 pound cargo capacity to be able to carry a decent tongue weight and still be able to put a few things in the bed. The average load a person adds to a camper is 1000 pounds, more if full time so you will likely need more trailer than you think also. Add to that the harsh reality that a trailer that is built well enough for full time living will be heavier to begin with.

A single person who really plans well can probably be reasonably comfortable in a 24' trailer. You should consider true 4 season trailers with good insulation and thermopane windows as well. Otherwise heating and cooling will be a major issue as will condensation.

You can figure your real world needs to be more like 6500 or 7000 pounds and at least a half ton truck with max tow and HD payload packages. Even if you manage to come in at 5000 pounds the Frontier will be worked into the ground. If you want a sample of the weight it will be required to haul get a half yard of topsoil and drive around for awhile. Half a yard of topsoil is about 1000 pounds which is about what a 5000 pound trailer will have for tongue weight with a WD hitch and a couple hundred pounds of items in the bed like tools, jack, small generator etc.

[DRKM]

Been there, done that with a 2010 Frontier and a smaller trailer. Get a bigger truck or limit your searches to trailers about 16 feet and 4000 gross weight.

Read the towing guide for the Frontier several times. Your biggest limit will be rear axle weight limit closely followed by the Frontier's gross vehicle weight limit. Just my 2 cents.

Wish you best of luck and safe travels.

[tuffr2]

If you can find a TT that fits your needs and weighs 4,000lb. with a max of 5,000lbs. You might be ok. A full sized truck would be better.

You could tow 5,000lbs. all over flat land Florida. Especially on all the back roads. What I have found is little trucks do great up to 50 - 55mph. Towing 5,000lbs. on interstate highways with a little truck not so good.

Depending how far you need to tow would dictate the size. If 1,000 miles on the highway 3,500lbs. would be my limit.

5,000lbs. if staying within a few hundred miles.

Youtube is a great resource. Type in ' Setting up a travel trailer' , towing a travel trailer, sway control, weight distribution hitches, etc. Every question you have will be answered with youtube or google.

[Desert Flyer]

Since you will be full timing it, definitely look for a four seasons type of trailer like Outdoors RV, Nash, and others that are fully insulated including the underbelly and have heated tanks and compartments. FL can freeze too and this is your home you will be living in. As mentioned, these will generally be better built and heavier. A typical well-built 24-ft box will be around 5,000 lb to start and maybe as much as 6,000 lb including slide. That is “dry” weight too and does not include any options, or cargo. Add 1,500 to 2,000 lbs for that and you are quickly reaching 7-8,000 lbs or probably near the trailer’s gross weight limit. For towing stability, you need 10-15% of that weight on the hitch; so figure at least 900 lbs hitch weight plus another 100 pounds for the hitch itself and that 1,000 lbs has to be carried by the rear end of your truck. Plus that doesnt include any further cargo and passengers in the truck. You will need to check both rear axle GAWR and total vehicle GVWR and compare to your actual fully loaded weights to be safe. In short, as others have said, for full-timing it, you need a well built travel trailer (fully insulated, heavier, more durable) plus a larger truck to safely tow it with.

[saddlesore]

Just for gits & shiggles, check out these, there are several that may meet your goals.
I have seen several that have the queen bed,separate toilet & shower with a gas cooktop & oven, they even have a bunkhouse model, but the ones with the rear entry and the bed up front I like.(180-R or the 189-R)
And if the one you like doesn't have a gas oven I'm sure that they can put one in for you as I have seen several that had one.
Retro Travel Trailers | Riverside RV
http://www.riversidervs.net/retro-travel-trailers/specifications.html

[tuffr2]

Are you going to follow the sun? That matters if you need a 4 season season trailer or a 3 season trailer. Someone mentioned if can freeze in Florida. That is kinda true but you never ever get a 'hard freeze'. I stayed in a 3 season trailer in the Crystal River area just fine. On occasion the temps drop below freezing for a few hours at night but daylight always brought warmer weather.

If you are going to take a contract, say in Michigan in January...well that is completey different. You will need a much heavier more expensive well insulated trailer if there is such a thing.

There are very few travel trailers that can withstand long freezing periods.

And just an fyi - a new trailer that has a MSRP of 28k can be bought for 20k easy.

The fact that you find towing a 10 foot flat trailer difficult is bothersome. When towing anything you do need to ne in a different mindset and always think about the trailer. Like making wider turns, more room for stopping, more room for accelerating, watching for low hanging branches. All trucks struggle to accelerate when towing. Zero to 60 times change from 8.5 seconds to 16 seconds. The engine gets noisy. When towing you got to be more focused.

You are in a hot bed location to look at campers. Lazy Days RV sales is huge and intimidating but worth a look because they will have lots and lots of different trailers. There are also many of other RV dealers up and down Rt 19.

Do not sink any money into your Fonteir just yet. If you need to tow your TT 1000's of miles you will need a bigger truck.

[Acheron2010]

Lots of videos on YouTube about hitching and unhitching, parking, and towing trailers. Watch a few, then take any trailer, even an old boat trailer, and go to a parking lot and practice.
What works for me, backing up, put one hand on the bottom of the steering wheel. Whichever direction you push the wheel, that is the direction your trailer goes. Go SLOW.
Practice, practice, practice.

Think you will need a "250" type truck with the trailer needs you will be talking about. Look at GVWR of the trailer, and tongue weight, and think about how much extra gear you will be carrying in the bed of your truck. Use Edmunds and Kelley reviews, and also, just look around a few campgrounds and see what other people are using for tow vehicles. Generator for when you boondock. Animals have to go in the truck when you move. Can't leave them all day in a hot trailer. For those 6 months parked, are you in a freeze zone? Few trailers are designed for year round use.

[Superslif]

I have a 2007 Nissan Frontier Nismo edition.

• Engine: Gas V6 4.0L/241
• Horsepower: 261 @ 5600
• Torque: 281 @ 4000 4.0L/241
• Max tow: 6,500lbs

Yes, this will limit you on trailer choices...Personally if your going to full time I would find the best "higher quality" RV trailer you could pull and afford. I would look at Outdoors RV Creek Side models. Dry weights start at 4700 to about 5400 lb. All outdoor RV product come STANDARD with thermal pane windows, thicker wall insulation, shocks on suspension. Look at their 18RBS or 21RBS with the "mountain dinette" Very large table...and it will fold down for guests when needed.

While shopping for our Outdoors RV Timber Ridge ( next model up) I saw a lot of 2017's Creek Side's still on the lots. Shop around. Big difference on prices from dealer to dealer. ORV products are only sold from dealers from Denver westward...

[tuffr2]

Forgot to mention, do not, I repeat do not look at the nice 3 slide 34' trailers if you go to Lazy Days. That is how they get you. I fell into that trap and look at me. Dually diesel truck pulling a large 5th wheel.

I wish I could have kept it more simple but I looked at the larger RV's....ugh.

[Jerry TX]

We had a Tacoma pickup with a 7500 lb towing capacity, brought a TT with a gross weight (6500lb), towed the trailer home from the dealer and brought a full size truck the next weekend so I completely agree you need a bigger truck for the TT you described. Wind is a bigger issue than hp and weight. Don't overlook the Ford EcoBoost V-6, we sometimes travel with a group and the EcoBoost will out pull an F250 with a gas engine up hill.

I noticed someone suggested a Nash TT for its 4 season capability, we currently own a Nash 24M, it is heavy with a gross weight of 7,000 lbs, so it's too heavy for the Nissan Frontier. Having said that I've seen lots of small, light trailers being towed by similar SUVs and smaller trucks. Full time living in one of those may be a challenge but could be doable depending upon you.

As to safety, we've been RVing and camping for 50 years without any problem, I suggest you use common sense, if the place makes you uneasy move to another place.

As you can see from this forum, RVers are a friendly lot and always eager to help another camper. If you haven't already, you maybe interested in checking into a women's only RV group such as Sisters on the fly, for advice and tips about solo RVing.

Lastly, you will need to develop a routine for setting up the trailer upon arrival. Once you have your routine stay with it as the muscle memory will avoid some mistakes. My personal routine upon arrival is-

Check and level trailer left to right before unhooking tow vehicle
Chock trailer wheels
Unhook from tow vehicle
Level trailer front to back using tongue jack
Extend stabilizers
Connect electric
Connect water
Run water to get the air out of TT water lines, especially the hot water tank
Connect sewer lines
Your set.

To leave the site, reserve this procedure, adding, check TT tribes air pressure and lug nut tightness. Then double and triple check the hitch connections.

It's OK to leave gray tank valve open once the sewer line is connected but keep the black tank valve closed. Only dump black tank when it's full, you need the liquid to break down the solids and the water column head pressure to flush solids from the black tank.

Lastly, keep your sense of humor and laugh at the mistakes, you won't make one that I or someone else hasn't made.