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Old 09-07-2015, 08:53 AM   #15
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A further question on leveling—our 23' TT has tandem axles. I asked the dealer guy when he was showing us everything if leveling required blocks under both tires on the low side. He said I only need to put blocks under one wheel. We are currently on a month long trip out West and where we are parked right now required leveling blocks. I have two 2x6 blocks under one tire and it really did not seem to make any difference on my level reading when I went from no blocks to one then two blocks. So, do you have to put blocks under both tires?
I think you answered your own question. Lots of variables, but short answer: if you want to get the most lift, put the blocks under both wheels.
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Old 09-07-2015, 09:22 AM   #16
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I think you answered your own question. Lots of variables, but short answer: if you want to get the most lift, put the blocks under both wheels.

Yep, I thought I did, too, but thought I'd throw it out there for those of you with more experience to comment. Thank you.
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Old 09-07-2015, 09:45 AM   #17
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I think the Andersen levelers are the very easiest to use especially if you have a big level mounted on the front of the trailer so you can see it from the drivers side rear view mirror. I added pull cords to mine so the DW can easily remove them before drive off.
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Old 09-07-2015, 10:10 AM   #18
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How difficult will it be to level my TT by myself? Think I like the Anderson level era, but guess it might not be on the first try if there's just me to do it! Just ask In'!

I posted a product review of the ReVo Leveler, which I love (ReVo Leveler Review). I use it in conjunction with the Andersen Levelers as well.

For the reasons mentioned in my write up, I level my trailer by myself and it gets it done in a matter of a minute.

I would have used one of the large bubble levels (which I had on my previous trailer) but with a black, stylized front cap there's no flat place to mount it and DW didn't approve the "eye sore."
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Old 09-07-2015, 03:39 PM   #19
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A further question on leveling—our 23' TT has tandem axles. I asked the dealer guy when he was showing us everything if leveling required blocks under both tires on the low side. He said I only need to put blocks under one wheel. We are currently on a month long trip out West and where we are parked right now required leveling blocks. I have two 2x6 blocks under one tire and it really did not seem to make any difference on my level reading when I went from no blocks to one then two blocks. So, do you have to put blocks under both tires?
Yes.
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Old 09-07-2015, 04:09 PM   #20
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Yes.

Thank you.
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Old 09-07-2015, 04:27 PM   #21
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2x10's cut with at a 45 degree angle on each end and a 1x 10 for just a bit.
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Old 09-29-2015, 03:49 PM   #22
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Went to a new sub division and the deck framer gave me all the cut off pieces I wanted. 2x8, 2x10 treated
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Old 09-29-2015, 03:57 PM   #23
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Anderson levelers.!!! Easiest way there is to level a RV
I recently had my first problem with my Anderson levelers. I am parked in a field, and I used the Anderson levelers to bring up the right side. One wheel didn't have any problem, but the other one had the leveler slide out from under the chock. I tried again, but the leveler slid out again. It seems the plastic levelers are slippery enough that if the wheel can still roll and the surface you are parked on does not provide enough friction, the leveler slides around and lowers the wheel.

I solved the problem by putting a BAL wheel chock between the two tires after leveling and getting the chock under the tire with a dead blow hammer. I was risking breaking the BAL chock, but I had to stop the tire from turning in order to get the leveler to stay in place after I place the chock under it.

Still happy with the Anderson levelers, but every product has some little quirk, so now I know to watch for this.
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Old 09-30-2015, 08:18 AM   #24
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When I use the Andersen levelers I still use the chocks between the wheels.
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Old 09-30-2015, 10:53 AM   #25
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Leveling

6x6s pads under the wheels X chocks between the ties and slide room jacks things solid as a house


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Old 09-30-2015, 02:10 PM   #26
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When I use the Andersen levelers I still use the chocks between the wheels.
So do I, but this was before I had even dropped the trailer. The instructions I got with the BAL X-chocks basically said to do all leveling before tightening the X-chock to prevent damaging the expensive X-chock.

Next time I'll try pulling the breakaway cable to apply the trailer brakes as long as I know I'll be hooked up to shore power or running the gennie to recharge the trailer batteries.
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Old 09-30-2015, 02:38 PM   #27
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Next time I'll try pulling the breakaway cable to apply the trailer brakes as long as I know I'll be hooked up to shore power or running the gennie to recharge the trailer batteries.

Being somewhat a newbie with a TT, even though my wife and I just completed a 30 day, 6,000+ mile trip with our TT, I have to ask if this is an acceptable practice. I am asking because during a set up at Devils Tower KOA I had put the left side up on leveling blocks (Lynx) and put chocks under the right side tires, but when I jacked the tongue off the ball hitch the trailer suddenly skewed to the left and fell off the jack stand. I figured it did this because I was not perfectly centered on the leveling blocks (yes, I gave my wife a lecture for telling me the tires were centered, LOL). Fortunately I was able to recover from the situation fairly easily. Would pulling the breakaway cable lock all four wheels? How does this work? I assume it uses the onboard battery power to hold the brakes on? Doesn't this sort of drain the battery? Does pushing the breakaway back in then release the trailer brakes? Is doing this just a very temporary solution until one gets all the chocks set? Please elaborate. Thank you.
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Old 09-30-2015, 03:18 PM   #28
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Answering your questions in order:
- It will apply the brakes at full pressure on any wheel that has a brake, as long as the system is working properly.
- When the cable is pulled, the brakes lock up.
- Yes, the on-board/coach/trailer battery system. No power there, no brakes It can absolutely drain the battery.
- Yes
- Yes, temporary. The wheel being able to spin freely was my problem, sounds like it was yours, too, in the situation you wrote about.
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