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Old 07-25-2016, 04:38 PM   #15
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Here is what I made for stabilizer blocks. I made the blocks from 2 x 6 pine. The base block is 2 x 2 pine and the post is 1" schedule 40 PVC. The small plywood ring is to space the blocks apart so they can dry after a rain. A 1" PVC cap keeps the rain out of the post. I actually now use 4 heavy duty tie-wraps. Never had one break.
This is a great idea!! I'm totally stealing this 👍
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Old 07-25-2016, 04:57 PM   #16
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This is a great idea!! I'm totally stealing this 👍
Sure glad you like it. We have camped a lot of places in 6700 miles and always use them. It is very handy to have them outside and not have to dig around in the pass thru for blocks.
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Old 07-25-2016, 05:52 PM   #17
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Sure glad you like it. We have camped a lot of places in 6700 miles and always use them. It is very handy to have them outside and not have to dig around in the pass thru for blocks.
Exactly! I have mine in 2 low profile totes in the tunnel. Will be nice to get that space back.
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Old 07-25-2016, 08:19 PM   #18
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Exactly! I have mine in 2 low profile totes in the tunnel. Will be nice to get that space back.
Photo when you get em done.
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Old 08-09-2016, 03:00 PM   #19
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Photo when you get em done.
I should have done this a long time ago. Thanks for the idea 👍


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Old 08-09-2016, 03:13 PM   #20
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I have thought about the milk crate idea, open side down with a plywood topper. The crates specs say can handle 200 lbs in a stack. Should be OK under stabilizers but have not found any info on exactly how pounds pressure the stabilizers would be. It would be lighter than wood yet still have the bulk of 4 milk crates.
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Old 08-14-2016, 05:24 PM   #21
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Something I saw once at a Line-Ex shop was a cinder block that was completely covered in Line-Ex coating. They used it to show off how tuff the lining was and other uses for it besides truck beds. You could drop it off the counter and it would bounce a little bit but not break or lose its shape. Who knows how many times it had been dropped. Probably wouldn't be cheap to do but would last a long time.
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Old 08-14-2016, 05:56 PM   #22
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I made these. I can carry six or more at one time. Each is 3" tall so 3 gets me 9" of blocking there very light.
I also carry eleven 4x4 in bumper with a tag line on first one installed so they can all be pulled out at once. I installed a sewer pipe carrier near sewer connection. I have a bumper mount grill and DW did not like the sewer hose under the grill anyway....Click image for larger version

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Old 08-14-2016, 08:41 PM   #23
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Attachment 135919Attachment 135921Attachment 135922Attachment 135923
I made these. I can carry six or more at one time. Each is 3" tall so 3 gets me 9" of blocking there very light.
I also carry eleven 4x4 in bumper with a tag line on first one installed so they can all be pulled out at once. I installed a sewer pipe carrier near sewer connection. I have a bumper mount grill and DW did not like the sewer hose under the grill anyway....Attachment 135924
Using foam and PVC is a great idea but 4x4s in the rear bumper is genius!
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Old 08-14-2016, 10:43 PM   #24
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What do the trailer Mfg's do with the foam and fiberglass parts they cut out for the windows and doors?
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Old 08-14-2016, 11:07 PM   #25
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Outdoors RV used some of the fiberglass and foam cutouts under the dinette seat cushions, drilling a hole in them so we can access the storage area underneath.
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Old 08-15-2016, 04:13 PM   #26
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I use 4x6 treated lumber blocks with Drawer handles mounted on the end to make removal easy.

Here are some pictures of the blocks and the rack I made to carry them.

Trailer Blocks And Rack | Photobucket
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Old 08-15-2016, 11:54 PM   #27
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Here is what I made for stabilizer blocks. I made the blocks from 2 x 6 pine. The base block is 2 x 2 pine and the post is 1" schedule 40 PVC. The small plywood ring is to space the blocks apart so they can dry after a rain. A 1" PVC cap keeps the rain out of the post. I actually now use 4 heavy duty tie-wraps. Never had one break.

VERY cool! I will need to do this. Thanks
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