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11-23-2018, 06:22 PM
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#29
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Utah
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garbonz
If you really look into BB’s they are not to exceed 14.4, don’t need or want any float at all. Best to leave them alone until they get down a ways like 40% and then pull them back up to 13.8v or so. That’s better than 90%. Never leave them sitting at full charge. What the brochures say is not really the best way to treat these baby’s, it is drop in marketing hype.
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14.4 bulk charge and 13.6 float is what they recommend. From their website: https://battlebornbatteries.com/buy-...po4-batteries/
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Keith
"I can't add days to my life but I can add life to my days."
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11-24-2018, 04:46 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Denver
Posts: 818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Utah banjo
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I said MARKETING HYPE, to increase the drop in attraction of the product. NO FLOAT is best, look up the basic chemistry of these cells. If you call them and press them in this, as I did, they will confirm. What you CAN do and what you should do are different. Either way, you probably won’t know for along time, so go ahead.
Just like progressive’s LI charger which produces a constant voltage of 14.4 with NO float. Just great. I believe they are trying to change it now.
What would be best for long term, is charge to 13.8 or 14.4 and shut off until down to 20% SOC and then recharge. When someone makes a charger that does this, then I will buy it.
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2017 WGO Fuse
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12-02-2018, 08:35 AM
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#31
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: .
Posts: 789
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Lithium batteries
Is anyone using GBS lithium battery? If so, how do you like them? How many AH’s do you have?
C&SL
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12-03-2018, 08:05 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Beaver Dam, Wisconsin
Posts: 5,154
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Odd man out
Quote:
Originally Posted by Utah banjo
Appreciate any insights from your own experience.
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My insights are not with TT LiPo's. They are with radio control aircraft. We have been using them for years. They are not as dangerous now as they were when we first started.
1) If you watched the video posted earlier, you saw the battery bulge first. This is a sign to remove it to a safe outdoor place immediately. So put them where you can see them. Keep the tools to extract a suspect cell handy. Don't even think about continuing to use it. It probably will continue to work for quite a while. continuing could cost you your TT or worse your life. In early batteries a bulged battery could easily catch fire hours later. One electric automobile burst in to an uncontrollable fire more than a week after a collision.
2) LiPo's charge fast using constant current, not constant voltage. So if your manufacturer in recommending a constant voltage, then the battery must have some way of limiting the current. Maybe your converter's maximum current is the limiting device. Be careful what you use to charge the LiPo. Some systems are probably not compatible. Use the battery manufacture's recommendations and don't assume substitutions are acceptable without checking with the mfg.
3) Winter storage should be in a discharged state. However, you don't want any individual cell to drop to zero or below volts. That will severely damage the cell. So disconnect them. I don't know if your battery will self discharge. Mine do not. Don't leave them on float charge in freezing temperatures.
The Mars rovers required enough solar to keep the batteries warm through the winter or they would die. The same is true for most spacecraft. Plutonium reactors are the exception. Do you want one of those?
Pay close attention to what the manufactures specify. Read or ask. Don't assume your experience with lead/acid batteries has anything to do with LiPo's.
__________________
Paul Bristol
Kodiak Cub 176RD
Nissan Pathfinder 2015
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12-04-2018, 04:30 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Itinerant
Posts: 758
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C&SL
Is anyone using GBS lithium battery? If so, how do you like them? How many AH’s do you have?
C&SL
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Going on 31months + using GBS 500ah & 1,280w solar fulltime living off of them. Haven't had any issues with our daily use of 125-175ah. Going 30-45 days at times with psoc of 25%-80% depending on solar still using microwave, coffeemaker, everyday items.
PT 100 controller set @ 14.1 Bulk_ 14.2 absorb (10 minute event, minimum setting)_ 13.6 float.
System hasn't been turned off since day 1 of install.
No complaints
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12-04-2018, 04:59 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: .
Posts: 789
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Itinerant1
Going on 31months + using GBS 500ah & 1,280w solar fulltime living off of them. Haven't had any issues with our daily use of 125-175ah. Going 30-45 days at times with psoc of 25%-80% depending on solar still using microwave, coffeemaker, everyday items.
PT 100 controller set @ 14.1 Bulk_ 14.2 absorb (10 minute event, minimum setting)_ 13.6 float.
System hasn't been turned off since day 1 of install.
No complaints
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Thanks I’m looking at going with GBS battery. Did you install them yourself?
C&SL
05Sig.
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12-04-2018, 05:13 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Itinerant
Posts: 758
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No, I had Starlight Solar in Yuma, AZ install the entire system.
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11-09-2019, 01:52 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Beaver Dam, Wisconsin
Posts: 5,154
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My bad
After reading many posts dissing my post I realize some of my understanding must be wrong. I have used the age old technique for curing my ignorance, reading a book.
Here I will try to correct my previous errors
…
1) If you watched the video posted earlier, you saw the battery bulge first. This is a sign to remove it to a safe outdoor place immediately. So put them where you can see them. Keep the tools to extract a suspect cell handy. Don't even think about continuing to use it. It probably will continue to work for quite a while. continuing could cost you your TT or worse your life. In early batteries a bulged battery could easily catch fire hours later. One electric automobile burst in to an uncontrollable fire more than a week after a collision.
LiFePo4 lithium batteries being sold as 12 volt lead acid drop in replacements 's are a significantly different chemistry. They can smoke, melt, and burn, but not like most other lithium chemistries.
2) LiPo's charge fast using constant current, not constant voltage. So if your manufacturer in recommending a constant voltage, then the battery must have some way of limiting the current. Maybe your converter's maximum current is the limiting device. Be careful what you use to charge the LiPo. Some systems are probably not compatible. Use the battery manufacture's recommendations and don't assume substitutions are acceptable without checking with the mfg.
Lithium batteries charge vary much like lead acid batteries. There is a specified current limit for the bulk phase. Lower limits allow the battery to last longer. The next phase is a decreasing current. A maximum voltage limit takes over just like a lead acid charge profile. For Battle Born batteries it is 14.4 volts. This voltage is necessary for full charge. That voltage continues until current drops to a small percentage usually rated as a percentage of the battery capacity like 0.5% of capacity. At this time the best practice is to stop charging all together. The end stage practice is widely disputed by experts, but leaving a voltage supplied appears to work ok.
3) Winter storage should be in a discharged state. However, you don't want any individual cell to drop to zero or below volts. That will severely damage the cell. So disconnect them. I don't know if your battery will self discharge. Mine do not. Don't leave them on float charge in freezing temperatures.
The Mars rovers required enough solar to keep the batteries warm through the winter or they would die. The same is true for most spacecraft. Plutonium reactors are the exception. Do you want one of those?
Certainly for storage, the battery should be disconnected. Storage between 20 and 80% SOC provides longer life.
Pay close attention to what the manufactures specify. Read or ask. Don't assume your experience with lead/acid batteries has anything to do with LiPo's
LiPo's are similar to lead acid batteries in many ways but better.
__________________
Paul Bristol
Kodiak Cub 176RD
Nissan Pathfinder 2015
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11-09-2019, 01:55 PM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Beaver Dam, Wisconsin
Posts: 5,154
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Sources:
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Paul Bristol
Kodiak Cub 176RD
Nissan Pathfinder 2015
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11-11-2019, 07:31 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Benson AZ
Posts: 512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Itinerant1
Going on 31months + using GBS 500ah ...
No complaints
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I went to the Starlight Solar web site. I did not see any warranty info for GBS or other brands.
BTW: Great thread everyone.
__________________
Retired Engineering Technician, 2023 Artic Fox 25Y TT
SOLD 2017 Winne Minnie 2201DS TT
SOLD 2010 Chalet XL1930 A-Frame TT
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11-12-2019, 06:34 AM
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#39
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Itinerant
Posts: 758
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pappion
I went to the Starlight Solar web site. I did not see any warranty info for GBS or other brands.
BTW: Great thread everyone.
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Not that it matters much but a person has to search further to be a little more informed, getting spoon feed can lead a person down the wrong path at times.
From manufacturers; The devil is in the details, these are just part of the warranty sections.
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11-12-2019, 09:47 AM
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#40
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 1,285
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I commented a year ago on this thread but since it is still around I will do an update.
Still very happy with my four 100 amp-hour BattleBornBatteries. I made changes this summer to keep my wife happier. She didn't like me running the generator to run the air conditioner when camping near lots of astronomers using tents. I upgraded my rooftop solar from 805 watts to 1405 watts. I replaced the rooftop Coleman-Mach 3 13.5 unit with a more efficient Mach 1 PowerSaver unit rated at 11 Kbtu. This two changes allow us to run the air conditioner all afternoon in full sun without needing a generator.
I now use a 20 x 14 foot Alluminet shade fabric on the south facing driver side of the trailer. It keeps a lot of solar gain away from our fridge and trailer sidewall. We can enjoy our awning facing north for maximum shade. We only do this when camping for several nights at astronomy events that are at lower altitude without any shade on site.
We don't need air conditioning after the sun goes down in the arid Great Basin at 5000+ feet of altitude. Even on the hottest summer days I only need air conditioning from about 11AM to 6PM. The solar and batteries can easily handle the smaller air conditioner.
I have no reason to plug my trailer in to power at a hookup site except to save on a little propane by running the fridge and water heater on electric. We use the microwave, toaster, air conditioner, TV and computers off grid just like we are on campground power. We have only plugged in for 3 nights total in 35+ nights of camping.
The rapid solar charging and ability to deliver large DC current to my inverter without issues is why we love our LiFePO4 batteries.
__________________
Jeff--
Arctic Fox 22G w/1440 watts solar/GMC2500HD Double Cab with Leer Cap w/740 watts solar
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11-12-2019, 10:17 AM
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#41
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Itinerant
Posts: 758
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@astrocamper "I now use a 20 x 14 foot Alluminet shade fabric on the south facing driver side of the trailer. It keeps a lot of solar gain away from our fridge and trailer sidewall. We can enjoy our awning facing north for maximum shade. We only do this when camping for several nights at astronomy events that are at lower altitude without any shade on site."
Do you have any pictures with this setup or how it's attached? I would be really interested and sounds like an excellent idea. Thanks
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2010 Cameo F34CK3, 500ah GBS LFP, 1280w solar, Magnum PT100 SCC & 3012 hybrid inverter/ charger, Installed 4/2016 been on 24/7/365, daily 35-45% DOD 2,732+ partial daily cycles.
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11-12-2019, 12:03 PM
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#42
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 1,285
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I don't think if have a picture of it setup.
I have 3 inch high stainless steel solar panel brackets that hold up several solar panels near the edge of the roof line. I put in eyebolts on each of the brackets nearest the edge on the drivers side. I installed a vinyl clad steel cable that uses the eyebolts and is about 2 inches above the edge of the drivers side of the roof.
I bought these items on Amazon:
Be Cool Solutions - 70% Reflective Aluminet Shade Cloth (14' x 20')
It has grommeted edge. I use bungee balls to secure the cloth to the cable.
SE 6" Black Bungee Stretch Cords with Balls (100 Count)
I use 2 foot long cords to secure the lower edge to stakes along the length of the shade cloth. The wind can blow through the fabric so it doesn't act like a sail. I keep some of my gear that I want in the shade under this area.
__________________
Jeff--
Arctic Fox 22G w/1440 watts solar/GMC2500HD Double Cab with Leer Cap w/740 watts solar
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