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Old 09-21-2004, 05:44 PM   #1
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Well, We sold our house and now we are going to build a new home.. Problem is, the new house probably wont be ready till the End of the year..

I have a sprindale 03, we moved it on the new land and will be getting electricity to it soon and going to order a propane tank from the gas company so that way I wont have to keep filling those babies up..

Now, how could i wrap my trailer up so no elements go under the trailer.. I need somehow to close it up and try to heat up the belly of it with some sort of electric heater..

Another thing, I figure I could buy the Trailer cover they have at camping world, the one with the opening for the door so that way I have a little more protection from the elements.. I figure I will put in 2 to 3 carbon monoxide detectors in it for extra safty..

Trailer is on my land.. Somebody please shed some light for me..

Thanks

John
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Old 09-21-2004, 05:44 PM   #2
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Well, We sold our house and now we are going to build a new home.. Problem is, the new house probably wont be ready till the End of the year..

I have a sprindale 03, we moved it on the new land and will be getting electricity to it soon and going to order a propane tank from the gas company so that way I wont have to keep filling those babies up..

Now, how could i wrap my trailer up so no elements go under the trailer.. I need somehow to close it up and try to heat up the belly of it with some sort of electric heater..

Another thing, I figure I could buy the Trailer cover they have at camping world, the one with the opening for the door so that way I have a little more protection from the elements.. I figure I will put in 2 to 3 carbon monoxide detectors in it for extra safty..

Trailer is on my land.. Somebody please shed some light for me..

Thanks

John
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Old 09-22-2004, 06:13 AM   #3
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several ways come to mind, hay or straw bales stacked around would probably provide the best insulation and it would be relatively easy to punch whatever holes through it you might need for lines and such. Cut and fit foam insulation would work as well but would be open to water and wind damage unless finished off and framed.
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Old 09-22-2004, 06:33 AM   #4
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The River's Bend campground owner lives in his fifth wheel all winter in Vermont. He uses hay bales.
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Old 09-22-2004, 09:39 AM   #5
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Hi Yianni:

Friends that we visited with had a travel trailer set up as a ski "chalet" in the Laurentians north of Montreal. It turned out to be quite comfortable and they used it as such for five years. Here's how they went about it:

Lifted the trailer on concrete blocks under the frame to eliminate bounce. This is important to keep your perimiter barrier from moving. They then used 2 inch foam insulation to close in the underside of the trailer, leaving a 2 foot section hinged for access in an emergency. The foam was wire tied to lattice work cut to size and held by stakes driven into the ground. The lattice was nailed to the stakes. They used two large light bulbs hanging free under the trailer for heat, these were tied in to a thermostat to turn them on and off. They used a heat wrap around their water supply and made sure the sewer valves were within the heated areas. You already have made arrangement for a large Propane tank, that was a must. They used the "shrink wrap" window covers to try and limit condensation and used the roof vents for ventilation. Last but not least, they built a "lean-to" around the entrance door to provide a buffer from the elements to the inside of the trailer, and in their case, to store their skis.

I would nor "cover" the rig, this would in my mind aggravate the humidity problem and would cut down the sun's heat while providing no real insulating value. Also it would not be too safe to block emergency window escapes.

This is a one season deal for you, so I really think the above will provide you with a cozy camp while you are building and it involves no permanent alterations to your rig. Let's face it, these trailers were not built for rigorous winter conditions so be prepared for quite a Propane bill. This can be helped to an extent by turning the heat down when leaving, it only takes 10 minutes or so to bring the unit back to 72 degrees. Hope this will prove useful. Good Luck.
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Old 09-22-2004, 05:13 PM   #6
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Use electric ceramic for heat since you're going to already be using electricity. Heats for efficiently than propane and will cut down on moisture that your propane furnace inherintly pumps.
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Old 09-22-2004, 07:58 PM   #7
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I used 2x4'rs cut to fit tight between the frameand the ground. I spaced them about every 4 feet. I then bought 4'x8'x1/8" sheets and cut them to fit tightly under the rig. I screwed them to the 2x4rs. I made doors so I could access my drain valves. I then put 100W light fixtures under all the tanks and turned on the power to the lights. We were in Columbia SC and were OK all winter long. I did drain the water hose when it was forcast it would freeze.
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Old 09-26-2004, 01:16 PM   #8
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Thanks for the Replies.. Dont know what Im going to do yet but I need to figure out something quick...
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Old 10-01-2004, 08:41 AM   #9
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We just moved from TX to WY and will be living in our 30' 5er for probably close to a year. I've stacked hay bales around the perimeter to close off the cold drafts, with a plywood/styrofoam box under the steps. I've made a sewer pipe from 3" PVC in three sections to get the waste to the septic tank. This weekend I'll be wrapping the water hose with heating tape and covering it all with that flexible foam rubber pipe wrap stuff. We got a 120 gal. propane tank delivered and plumbed in this week. I put MaxxAir covers on all the roof vents this week. I also picked up several rolls of that foil insulation from Camping World that I'll be cutting to fit each of my windows, attaching it with velcro spots, I guess. We also have a couple ceramic heaters we'll be using to help take the load off the furnace.
Connecting the three sections of pipe and moving a couple bales to access the drain valves isn't an ideal solution, but not too bad either. I'll have to de-snow the sat. tv and internet dishes occasionally, too, also not a big deal.
Just think about all the fun yer gonna have. It's like an adventure.
I hadn't thought of using a lightbulb for heat underneath...
Also, don't forget to mouse-proof the underside of your camper. That's on my list of priority items for the weekend also.
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Old 10-01-2004, 09:57 AM   #10
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Brian & Steph,

Sounds like the adventure is continuing! Just call if you need a shot of good, 90 degF Texas air before you freeze solid.

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Old 10-02-2004, 05:57 PM   #11
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The 100W light idea came from the water dispenser we had in our chicken coop in Michigan. There was a light bulb in the sheetmetal base of the dispenser under the tank. The chickens water supply never froze up allwinter long.
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Old 10-05-2004, 12:19 AM   #12
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Old 10-15-2004, 09:37 PM   #13
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I don't think I'd be putting straw or hay bales around my trailer. My area lost two trailers last season from fires that spread to the bales and burned the trailer to the ground. In one case the occupant was killed, in the other the family got out. Personally, I'd choose something less flammable. You should keep in mind that perhaps your second biggest fight, after staying warm, will be condensation. In a small area with little air exchange, like a trailer, it is very hard to keep mold from starting behind furniture and such. I recommend you keep a light bulb going in any areas you can reach behind couches and such. When it starts to get really cold, leave open all the interior cabinet doors so that warm air can circulate to the plumbing and any liquids stored in the cabinets.
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Old 02-24-2005, 06:53 AM   #14
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We moved from sunny California to Dener in a 22 foot 1992 Prowler...all I did was put a quartz work shop light under the black tank and wrapped the water line with heat tape and insulation....we had 5 below zerro temps with wind chills considerably lower and had no problems....
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