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06-12-2017, 05:00 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 30
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Need input on equalizer hitch setup
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06-12-2017, 05:30 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 3,539
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I am certainly no expert on Equalizer brand hitches but I have one and it is completely different than yours. Here is what an Equalizer looks like. https://www.equalizerhitch.com/store...led-hitch-ball
The small ball off to the side of yours is for a sway control bar which you do not seem to have and your hitch head does not seem to be adjustable for ball angle/washers.
__________________
2020 F28 RKS Titanium
2017 Creekside 23 RBS Sold
2016 F250 Super Crew XLT Overworked
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06-12-2017, 05:39 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 680
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That looks more like a EEZ Lift hitch that I used to have.
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06-12-2017, 05:44 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 254
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Don't know your financial standing but I would get rid of that chain equalizer and go with the straight bar equalizer. Lot easier to put on and will give you a lot less headaches.
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06-12-2017, 06:06 PM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 30
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Financially i could pull er off. Is it under a grand? Whats the pros and cons of my current setup vs straight bar? I did get the ball to tilt a bit and improved the alignment of the bars
I do have a reese sway control bar. Just didn't have it on while playing around with this mess haha.
I see that link posted mentions integrated sway control, also looks better for turning. Ive wondered how tight i could turn with this thing i have on
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06-12-2017, 06:15 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Outdoors RV Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 3,539
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https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...EQ37100ET.html
This is the one you want although it comes in several sizes for different weight trailers. The one in the link is for trailers up to 10,000 pounds or tongue weights of 1000 pounds.
It has sway control built in requiring no extra bars like your current hitch.
__________________
2020 F28 RKS Titanium
2017 Creekside 23 RBS Sold
2016 F250 Super Crew XLT Overworked
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06-12-2017, 06:23 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 680
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We have the Blue Ox Sway Pro and it works great.
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06-12-2017, 07:01 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Braselton, Georgia
Posts: 1,287
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I agree. You need to get a real Equal-i-zer 4 point hitch. We like ours. I ordered it off of Amazon for around $500 and free shipping. The free shipping is important because this thing is heavy enough to make the UPS man grunt.
__________________
2016 Winnebago 2201DS Champagne
2015 Ford F-150 XLT FX4 5.0
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06-12-2017, 07:05 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 573
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As with most every TT, Hitch, and TV, opinions are as varied as the weather. And that's a great thing about forums, you get a lot of perspective and can apply what clicks. I have the Husky Centerline which has the built in sway control and pull a 35' TT. No sway, easy hook up and I love it. I also have a set of sumo springs on the rear axle of the TV and wish I would have found these years ago. With the sumo's I was able to unload the bar setting by one notch (1") and the bars are level with the TT frame. Ride and control are perfect.
__________________
2020 Flagstaff Classic 832IKSB
2011 F250SD Lariat Crew, 2WD
6.7L, 3:31, Husky CenterLine TS
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06-12-2017, 07:55 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 30
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We are doing a camping trip in a week and ill keep what ive got for it, but we are going to run the Oregon coast mid july and ill probably get something new...
Just curious though, whats the downside to the unit i have?
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06-12-2017, 09:20 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Austin,TX
Posts: 464
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Looks to me like you need a longer shank so you can get the TT LEVEL. Nose up is not good, more likely to sway. Slightly nose down or level is the proper way to tow.
__________________
2018 Primetime Crusader 319RKT
2013 RAM 2500 4X4 Laramie CrewCab, 6'4'' bed, 3.42 RAR, 6.7L Cummins Turbo Diesel, Payload 2547, Max tow 17,480, PullRite Superglide
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06-12-2017, 09:49 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 30
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I measured again under the frame rail of the trailer at the back wall and front wall and visually confirmed it's the same frame rail height like the same chunk of steel. She actually sits one inch lower in the front than the rear. In that picture it would appear the tounge goes uphill butbit actually doesn't. Lens or something from the camera i guess
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06-13-2017, 04:42 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ehumpy
I measured again under the frame rail of the trailer at the back wall and front wall and visually confirmed it's the same frame rail height like the same chunk of steel. She actually sits one inch lower in the front than the rear. In that picture it would appear the tounge goes uphill butbit actually doesn't. Lens or something from the camera i guess
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Wow! That looks to be snubbed up to about the 7th link? That puppy must be tight. My 3/4T wouldn't have the rears on the ground.
I have had the same WD on the last three trailers, but had a machine shop put on new chains last year due to bottom link having wear. JMHO you should be fine with that set-up.
__________________
2000 Fleetwood Wilderness
2005 Silverado HD/6.0 w4.10s
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06-13-2017, 05:43 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 30
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Ha, no tires are still on the ground. Its better now that i tweaked the ball angle some. About even on links hanging vs tight
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