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Old 08-10-2008, 03:40 AM   #15
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Just my humble opinion but I would never buy new again. Just too much of a hit on depreciation. I'd look for a late model used tt. There are some good prices out there.

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Old 08-10-2008, 04:56 AM   #16
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There are several advantages to purchasing a used RV, especially as one's first RV:

1. Someone else takes the initial depreciation "hit".

2. Hopefully, most of the "new RV" bugs have been worked out.

3. The first RV will help you determine what features you must have and don't want in your next RV. By purchasing a used RV, you're not putting as much money into an RV that you'll probably want to move up from before too long.

A primary key to purchasing a used RV is the level of maintenance the previous owner has performed. Water leaks are death to an RV, so look for any signs of leakage into the roof area, walls or floors of the RV. On the higher-line Jaycos we owned, there was a 2+3 (bumper-to-bumper and structural) warranty - if the Jay Feather has this warranty, it may be transferable, or the dealer may be willing to offer you a limited warranty on an RV that new to alleviate some risk. Individual component warranties on a number of items such as air conditioners, refrigerators, etc. should still be in effect.


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Old 08-10-2008, 05:14 AM   #17
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Of all of the RVs we have owned, some use and some new, the better value is in the used ones....but one word of caution...buyer beware.

You really need to have a used RV inspected by an independent RV technician...not the selling dealer. As Rusty noted, water is the death of an RV and I am really baffled at the number of newer units with water leaks. There is no reason fro water leaks if they build it right in the first place. Even a new one is no guarantee of being leak free. The warranties now contain a clause that put the leak back on the owners back by stating that the roof should be inspected and resealed twice a years. This is not right as RV's should not be expected to leak.

But take a flash light with you and look inside cabinets, pull out drawers, look in the far corners of lockers for any sighs of water marks or staining. The roof should be flat and bubble free. The joints where the cap joins the roof should be clean and flat, no gaps and caulked properly.

Windows should be well seated and properly caulked.

As in a new unit, have every system on the trailer checked fro operation and operation demonstrated to you prior to signing any papers and handing over any money.

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Old 08-10-2008, 04:48 PM   #18
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I'm glad to see your going about this smart getting a properly sized trailer for your tow vehicle. I'm towing a similarly sized trailer with a similar sized tow vehicle, though my trailer is not a light, I wish it was. I'm pulling a 21ft TT with a Jeep Grand Wagoneer (the Grand Cherokees older slightly bigger brother). My tow rating is 5,000 lbs, with 10,000 lb combined vehicle rating, so weight in my vehicle does not reduce the tow capacity until I get to 5,000lbs in the tow vehicle. I just went to a Cat Scale today and weighed my TT and truck. The truck came in lighter than I though it would at only 4,580lbs with a full tank of gas, however mt TT came in heavier than I thought at 4,600lbs. My truck was completely empty, but my TT had basically everything in it that I take camping other than my clothes, Coolers, food, and water. So basically I have 800lbs to play with, which shouldn't be too hard with two of us in the truck and the rest of our camping gear. I'll just have to always fill my fresh water when I get to where I'm going, which I've been doing anyway.

Anyways, it tows really good even with my short wheel base (108 in). My only real problem is I could use more power, my 5.9L only put out 129hp and 245 fl/lbs of torque when new. So between your lighter trailer and higher powered engine you should have no problem as long as you stay at safe speeds. I use a Reese Dual Cam weight distributing hitch, anti sway bar, and Tekonsha Prodigy electirc brake controller. I would highly recomend all three of these for towing with a smaller vehicle. I've towed other trailers without any of that equipment and it was a nightmare! Oh and make sure the brake controller is wired to the battery or main power terminal for both the ground and positive wires, it DOES make a big differance.

We live and we die by time. And we must not commit the sin of losing our track on time.

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