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Old 05-28-2013, 08:43 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cekkk View Post
I am an expert in poor WDH setups. I'd say your hitch is not set up correctly. Setup properly, your measurements from a point at the top of your wheel wells to the ground should be nearly the same before and after hooking up. If your squat is that much, you sure are porpoising because not enough weight has been redirected to your front TV axle and you have less control of your vehicle. With my Equalizer I've finally achieved Nirvana. Good Luck.
1" of squat is a lot? Reading the hitch instructions I should expect a little squat.
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:49 AM   #30
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A little drop in the rear is normal and expected. That's why they say to set your hitch ball about 1" higher than the trailer coupler with TT levelled.

What I have not seen yet is that it is said that the front axle of TV should get about 25% of tongue wt., drive axles 50% and trailer axles 25%. When someone says the rear of the truck will take care of itself, how are you supposed to know if the trailer is getting too much or too little weight transfer?

Another popular RV forum has a really good and also lengthy sticky on setting up hitches. Really worth the read. Find at: RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Towing: Travel Trailer Hitch Set-up Procedure

In regards to fender heights, it says in part:

"Ford specs for 2011 and newer trucks say the w/d should be adjusted to eliminate about 50% of the front end RISE... IOW, if the front rises 1.5" initially, the RISE should be reduced to around 3/4"...
Ford specs for SUVs say the w/d should be adjusted to return the front bumper to within 1/2" of the unhitched height...
Equal-i-zer specs, beginning in 2010, say the w/d should be adjusted to eliminate at least 50% of the rise...
GMC specifies that 100% of the rise should be eliminated...
Curt Mfg says, "A weight distributing system is properly set up and coupled when the tow vehicle has settled with the front wheel opening at the original uncoupled dimension measured and slightly lower in the rear. ~ This will assure the front wheel load remains unchanged. This results in good handling and the desired load on the rear axle."...
Reese 2009 specs say the final front end height must be less than or equal to the unhitched height...
Eaz-lift, reported to have invented the w/d hitch in 1952, says, "Remeasure front and back of towing vehicle and have both settle the same amount or up to an inch lower in back by adjusting chain on spring bars."
From The Toyota manual..
"If using a weight distribution hitch when towing, return the front axle to the same weight as before the trailer connection.
If front axle weight cannot be measured directly, measure the front fender height above the front axle before connection. Adjust weight distribution hitch torque until front fender is returned to the same height as before connection.
Do not reduce front fender height below original measurement."
All of the above, except the 2011+ Ford trucks, seem to indicate it is okay for the front end to be returned to the unhitched height...

If your w.d bar adjustment is sufficient, the front of the truck should have settled downward approximately to the same distance as it was at originally. Do not worry about the rear as it will take care of itself if the front is correct. If the front is still high, increase tension on the w.d bars... You may have to tilt the hitch head down to gain additional tension from the w/d bars... If the front of the truck is lower (unlikely!!) relax the tension of the w/d bars... Too much weight on the front axle will cause premature wear of components and likely make handling a bit unstable... "
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Old 05-28-2013, 06:24 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by dagmandt View Post
1" of squat is a lot? Reading the hitch instructions I should expect a little squat.
Guess I misread. "The trailer is perfectly level and my F350 squats about 3" - 4" when hooked up. "
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:58 PM   #32
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OP, I just read the whole thread. Please don't keep us waiting on the whole scale thing. I'm looking forward to the results. I recently weighed my set up and found out my toy hauler's dry weight was actually lighter by 300 lbs. than the mfg. stated. On the other hand, my TW was 180 lbs. more than he said. So, ignore the specs, and head to the CAT scales. Next time you go camping, just go through the nearest truck stop gas station, fill up, and hit the scales fully loaded. Looking forward to your results, as I'm battling the same thing on my new setup.
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Old 05-29-2013, 10:46 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by cekkk View Post
Guess I misread. "The trailer is perfectly level and my F350 squats about 3" - 4" when hooked up. "
Ah, things have changed since the first post in this thread. I went through the trailer hitch setup completely and measured on flat asphalt. I have just about 1" of drop in the rear and almost no rise in the front. Maybe 1/8" or at the most 1/4".
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Old 05-29-2013, 10:49 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by Boltsfaninmo View Post
OP, I just read the whole thread. Please don't keep us waiting on the whole scale thing. I'm looking forward to the results. I recently weighed my set up and found out my toy hauler's dry weight was actually lighter by 300 lbs. than the mfg. stated. On the other hand, my TW was 180 lbs. more than he said. So, ignore the specs, and head to the CAT scales. Next time you go camping, just go through the nearest truck stop gas station, fill up, and hit the scales fully loaded. Looking forward to your results, as I'm battling the same thing on my new setup.
I'll try not to keep you waiting. I've been really busy with work and weekend trips. Kind of hectic. Hopefully soon.
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Old 05-29-2013, 12:16 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by dagmandt View Post
I'll try not to keep you waiting. I've been really busy with work and weekend trips. Kind of hectic. Hopefully soon.
Thanks, I know your world revolves around my wishful thinking right?
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