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Old 07-25-2012, 11:40 PM   #57
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I bought a 3500/3000 generator for $175. 3 years old and still has stickers on it! I need to get an adapter cord, suggestions? Also my TT IS 30 amp, if I run refridgerator and water heater on gas it should do the job? 15,000btu AC.
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Old 07-26-2012, 08:17 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Okietrucker View Post
I bought a 3500/3000 generator for $175. 3 years old and still has stickers on it! I need to get an adapter cord, suggestions? Also my TT IS 30 amp, if I run refridgerator and water heater on gas it should do the job? 15,000btu AC.
Check the genny to see how many amps it puts out. I think the 3000/3500 means 3000Watts continuous and 3500watts peak for start-ups. If so, you have a 30 amp genny. I assume it is 120VAC. The 15000BTU AC should be about 10 amps and should work fine on that.
Not sure what you mean by adapter cord - Wal-Mart has 30amp to 20/15 amp adapter plugs for about $5. The 30 amp connector/output plugs look similar (but smaller) to the 220v on a house dryer/range. 15/20 amp connector/plugs are the standard house recepticals.
Once you get the gennny running, you should run it once a month - every month - for 1/2hr or so with a load - they don't like to sit un-used. It will run a small electric heater in the winter for the load, AC in the summer.
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Old 07-26-2012, 10:19 AM   #59
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for those rainy days & peace of mind that there are no leaks:
Moisture Test Meter | Moisture Meters| Northern Tool + Equipment

for taking tire temps at fuel stops to see if one is down on air and heating up:
Amazon.com: Mastercool 52226 Dual Temp Infrared Probe Thermometer: Automotive

quick connects for water and cable
Walmart.com: Camco Brass Quick Connect: Automotive

and if full hookups, I position the dump valve closest to the pedestal to shorten the sewer hose needs... the electrical and water are MUCH easier to adjust...
(oh yeah, always allow for slide opening if you have them )

Also, I usually am pulling in in the late afternoon when it's hottest,
so on the drive over I will pull blinds down or put my reflectix in sun side windows,
leave the roof vent open a bit to pull air out on the way since I have vent covers,
hook up electrical first and turn the ducted ac to dump straight down instead of going thru the ducts and cooling the roofline - MUCH rather cool the interior air...
then water,
and usually do not do sewer until the next morning when it is cooler

unhook the truck from 5er, and level, THEN put the slides out...
Newbie here - So as long as I have vent covers, I can leave the vents over when on the move?
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Old 07-26-2012, 01:45 PM   #60
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Yes on the vents. Also I would like to add:

check tire pressures before leaving when tires are cool

Use a hose -reel to keep your water hose in. I keep 100' in the hose-reel with some refluxtric over the top of the hose to keep the sun off. Also carry an additional 25'. the main hose has brass quick conects and a pressure regulator.

If you run satelite, you made to add a wall connector and RG6 cable.

Carry and extra 30r or 50 amp cable just in case. also, plenty of extension cords

Power drill, tree saw, lopers and any other tool that may come in handy

Extra washers for hose fittings, faucet o rings etc

Hope this helps
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Old 07-26-2012, 01:54 PM   #61
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Newbie here - So as long as I have vent covers, I can leave the vents over when on the move?
Try it and see - if I leave my roof vents open it creates a small vacuume that pulls sewer smell from the grey or black tanks (that was years ago, but I'm not sure which tank because I wasn't about to do it a 2nd time - pew :>)
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Old 07-26-2012, 03:28 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by tomwalt
Check the genny to see how many amps it puts out. I think the 3000/3500 means 3000Watts continuous and 3500watts peak for start-ups. If so, you have a 30 amp genny. I assume it is 120VAC. The 15000BTU AC should be about 10 amps and should work fine on that.
Not sure what you mean by adapter cord - Wal-Mart has 30amp to 20/15 amp adapter plugs for about $5. The 30 amp connector/output plugs look similar (but smaller) to the 220v on a house dryer/range. 15/20 amp connector/plugs are the standard house recepticals.
Once you get the gennny running, you should run it once a month - every month - for 1/2hr or so with a load - they don't like to sit un-used. It will run a small electric heater in the winter for the load, AC in the summer.
Yes 3500/3000 watts. The plug on the gen is 4 post RV plug is 3 post. Got adapter today. Going to give it a try tonight. I think it's 30 amp gen. Thanks for the info.
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Old 07-26-2012, 03:31 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StStg1
Yes on the vents. Also I would like to add:

check tire pressures before leaving when tires are cool

Use a hose -reel to keep your water hose in. I keep 100' in the hose-reel with some refluxtric over the top of the hose to keep the sun off. Also carry an additional 25'. the main hose has brass quick conects and a pressure regulator.

If you run satelite, you made to add a wall connector and RG6 cable.

Carry and extra 30r or 50 amp cable just in case. also, plenty of extension cords

Power drill, tree saw, lopers and any other tool that may come in handy

Extra washers for hose fittings, faucet o rings etc

Hope this helps
Great info! Thanks to you and everyone who has contributed.
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Old 07-26-2012, 03:34 PM   #64
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The best advice I can give someone starting out is to have a 'system' for setup and takedown. When we had a pop-up and traveled with the kids, everyone had a job and did them in order. We also double-checked each other to make sure all was well. Now that it's just the wife and I, we do the same thing.
We've found that during setup/takedown we don't like to talk to other campers, just concentrate on the tasks at hand. I've seen people forget important things (like unplugging the power) when they were getting ready to leave because they were distracted by friends visiting.
Develop a routine for your setup/takedown and stick to it. Checklists are great, if you remember to look at it.
Before we leave a campsite both my wife and I both do and independent walk around to check all the doors, plugs, cords, etc...

Practicing a few times BEFORE you are in a campground and nervous about being watched is also a good idea.

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Old 07-26-2012, 03:37 PM   #65
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Went out and did some shopping today and thought I would share. The flush king 'type' flushing system was $56 at my RV dealer. We r on somewhat of a budget so I bought a clear elbow for $9 and an end cap with a hose fitting on it $5. $14 for a flushing system, a bit more work but identical results for $40 less. Got a few more things but I thought I would share the big savings. Happy trails!
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Old 07-26-2012, 03:53 PM   #66
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Here's another one: Hide spare 'critical keys' where you can get to them.
It's easy to missplace keys during all the camping and traveling activities (or the only person not in camp is the one with the keys).
I have 4 identical sets of keys for our MH/toad combination. I carry one set, DW carries one, and the other two are hidden in each of the two vehicles. Hopefully we can always get to a spare set in the event of a loss.

We also keep a "dummy" key (no chip) in the toad to unlock the steering for towing. That key will not start the engine.
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Old 07-27-2012, 10:03 AM   #67
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complained to cg resident mgr the next morning and she said that it bothered her too! but did nothing to shut down partying on other nights
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Old 07-27-2012, 10:07 AM   #68
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I carry a 12v battery/or cig lighter power cord Air Compressor to make certain tire pressure is exact on tt. And I use a hand held IR temp gun to check bearing and tire temp whenever we stop for fuel or a break. That will alert you to a bearing or tire problem before it gets really serious
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