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Old 09-27-2013, 06:55 PM   #1
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No 12v Lights

Hello All

New here and to RV's/travel trailer. Just bought our first, a 2000 Keystone Springdale 25RKLS. Among many problems i'm attempting to sort out, my first post here is this ??

Everything inside works fine fine on 110v But i get no lights on 12v power. The built in radio works, and have not tried the water system on 12 v.Got to tackle one thing at a time.
The guy we bought it was of little help, all he did was go to full hook up parks. I knew when i bought it the power slide did not work and the water heater. But right now i need to fiqure out why the lights are fine on 110 but nothing on 12v.

Many thanks from a pair of newbies. Jim
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Old 09-27-2013, 07:02 PM   #2
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Have you checked the battery? Is it charged, properly connected? If the battery is good check the Salesman switch by the entry door. Might be labeled battery cut out or similar.
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Old 09-27-2013, 07:50 PM   #3
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WE assume that the lights you are talking about are the 12VDC lights and not some oddball 120VAC (I say "oddball" because it is unlikely that your coach has anything other than 12VDC lights built in.)

Given that all the lights turn on with 120VC power, we know the lights are good, the wiring is good, and the converter is working. Therefore there are only three possibilities. The first is whether the 12VDC master on-off switch is on or off. It should be by the door but may be somewhere else. The second possibility is a bad battery. Does any other 12VDC appliance or accessory work. If so, the problem is probably not the battery although it would be wise to check it with a voltmeter. The last is the 12VDC fuses, however, given that the lights work off the converter (120VAC) the problem is probably not the fuses.

Good luck.
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Old 09-27-2013, 10:47 PM   #4
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Just went out with a flashlite and could not find any 12 master (dealer switch) around the door area. I fairly sure the battery is ok, at least it has enough juice to run the power tongue jack. Checked the fuses and could not find anything in the 12v ones that were lables lights.

Thanks Jim
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Old 09-27-2013, 11:01 PM   #5
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You need to physically either ohm out the fuses and circuit breakers (on tongue too) or get a test light and see where you do and don't have power. And load test the battery. Guessing on electrical gets you no where.
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Old 09-27-2013, 11:27 PM   #6
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When you say everything works on 110 v (actually 120 v) does that include refrigerator, A/C? RV refrigerators 12 v, the LP gas or 120 v are controlled by the 12 v circuits. Same with A/C, it is 120 v but run by 12 v thermostat. Likewise the furnace has 12 v fan but uses LP for heat when thermostat calls for heat. Your converter/charger is 120 v powered that converts to 12 v DC to charge batteries and run all 12 v items when plugged in to shore power.
Unplug trailer and wait a few hours for the battery to equalize then take a voltage reading. A fully charged battery should be about 12.7 volts. 12 v is considered half charge. When plugged in, the converter/charger should push voltage to ~13.6 v.

If you have proper voltage at battery terminals, then use multimeter and test power at fuse panel. Pull each fuse and test for power at the fuse socket. Check each fuse with multitester to be sure fuse is good. Then move on to light sockets.

Be aware that many 12 v issues are caused by a bad ground wire. Connect the black lead of tester to a known good ground when testing for 12 v (+) at light sockets.
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Old 09-28-2013, 03:44 AM   #7
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Everything works when plugged into 120v, all lights, air, pumps and the frig. works great on gas or 120v. Will check things out more when i get off work today. Just had a thought. Our unit has a rear kitchen, and thats where the fuse box is, The main door we use and i checked around is there, there is also a door in the front bedroom, could the master be in there, since that's the front of the trailer ????

Thanks Jim
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Old 09-28-2013, 04:50 AM   #8
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The tongue jack is most likely wired directly to the battery with it's own fuse. There are either regular fuses or resettable fuses inline from the battery going into the coach - Typically a single 40AMP blade type fuse. If those are bad you will have no 12VDC inside unless you are plugged into shore power then the converter is supplying it for you - it just wouldn't be able to charge the battery(ies).

Look around up front inline from the positive wire of the battery up to where it leads off into the coach under the frame - I'd wager you have some sort of inline fuse right there.
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Old 09-28-2013, 07:31 AM   #9
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I am not familiar with the use of the "salesman switch" in campers. It is in motorhomes. There may be a shutoff switch near the battery. The power tongue jack was likely added and will be connected directly to the battery. Does anything (12V) work inside the camper when not plugged in to shore power ? Start at the battery and work towards the convertor checking wires and grounds. May be something simple. It will have some kind of circuit protection. A circuit breaker or fuse close to the battery.
Good Luck
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Old 09-28-2013, 04:51 PM   #10
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Ok- Got home from work tonight and took my meter out to the trailer, here's what i found ( picture below). On the 12v side, with 12v battery only, no AC power, the right 3 are hot before and after the fuse, the left ones after the emptry slot are dead, before and after the fuse, along with the hot side of the empty slot. if i jump from one of the three hot fuses over to a dead one, the light on that fuse works.

Now i turn on the 120ac all the fuses are hot with 12vdc, so why are the left bank dead with 12dc only ?????

Thanks Jim
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Old 09-28-2013, 04:57 PM   #11
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picture, try again
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Old 09-28-2013, 05:00 PM   #12
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I would guess that your circuit board has broken solder, and the battery power (red) has no circuit to the fuses on the LH side, and that when the converter is producing DC power (blue) that is is powering the LH fuses, and probably not charging the battery.
With converter producing DC, what is voltage at the blue and red wires, and what is voltage at blue and red wires with converter not producing.
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Old 09-28-2013, 06:03 PM   #13
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Try putting a fuse in the empty spot. I'm thinking it might be the 'bridge between right and left sides of the fuse panel. Not sure, just a guess. If that doesn't work, you'll have to remove fuse panel and check solder and wires on the back.
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Old 09-28-2013, 06:40 PM   #14
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jesilvas-- You mean the blue wire that comes in at the top of the board ? and the big red wire from the battery, both times using the big white as a neatral/grd. With no 120v the big red was 12.56, the same as at the battery.

Thanks Jim
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