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Old 06-16-2016, 06:23 AM   #1
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No water at kitchen faucet-what I learned yesterday!

Before leaving for a short trip, I was sanitizing the fresh water tank and noticed I couldn't get any water from kitchen faucet. I decided it would be easier to do something at campground. So yesterday, we arrived here in MI and after getting set up...no water from faucet. I looked under the sink area for a kinked hose, but that wasn't the problem. Have you guessed the problem yet?

Yep, it was plugged at the strainer. I removed the strainer and it was plugged with a bunch of grit. A quick rinse and we were back in business. It's interesting that I've never had the problem before. I use a Camco water filter, so it's a little puzzling how the grit got as far as the faucet...but that's life.

Just posting this as a point of information in case it happens to anyone else. As long as you are RVing, you continue to learn something new.
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Old 06-16-2016, 09:06 AM   #2
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Probably came from the water heater-which is after the filter. Might consider draining and flushing the water heater and replacing the anode if you haven't done it this season.
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Old 06-16-2016, 09:11 AM   #3
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The fresh water tanks are never completely flat or level on the bottom, so some water and sediment remains. When draining the tank, open the valve and drive around so that nearly everything comes out, but do this where it won't be a problem to others.
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Old 06-16-2016, 10:12 PM   #4
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The sediment is coming from the anode in your HW tank. If you haven't checked the erosion of the anode rod now is the time to do it. If you TT is 3 years old and you have never replaced the anode rod you are due for a new one. To remove the anode rod you will need a 1 1/16" socket. Make sure there is no pressure in the system and the heater is turned off (electric switch on the outside of the WH) with the water cooled down or you will get an outside shower (open the relief valve to release pressure or an inside faucet). You can sometimes get a replacement anode rod at a big box store or always at any RV dealer from 10-15 dollars. Flush out the water tank before you replace the rod. If you don't flush out the tank you will get more grit clogging the aerator. You can get one of these at Home Depot of under $7. (or Amazon/Walmart) Camco P/N 11691 (may have to be ordered online) You can get them at Camping World on sale now for about the same price


Always fill the WH tank before turn on the electric heating element or it will just go POOF in about 5 seconds. To make sure the WH tank is full use pull on the relief valve, when you get water coming out then the WH tank is full.
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Old 06-18-2016, 08:21 AM   #5
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I've got to check to see if my water heater has an anode rod. My Sunline didn't have one. I always run water through the hot water lines to make sure the water heater is filled with water before turning on the water heater. I'm thinking the sediment may have been from the freshwater tank as I had just sanitized it and then emptied it before leaving on our trip.
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Old 06-18-2016, 04:46 PM   #6
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After sanitizing and filling the fresh tank several times and draining it. I start filling the fresh tank for the trip but leave the drain open for say five minutes. My theory is the new water going in mixes with what is in the bottom of the tank and hopefully junk flows out the drain. If you have an anode rod. That is the culprit.
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Old 06-19-2016, 12:10 AM   #7
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If the drain plug on the WH tank is plastic/nylon then you have an Atwood WH and there is no anode. If the drain plug is metal then you have a Suburban WH and that is where the anode rod is. Let us know what you find.
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Old 06-19-2016, 01:18 PM   #8
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I have an Atwood water heater, so there isn't an anode rod. I'm not that concerned about where the sediment came. My post was mainly to inform others that if you don't have water at one outlet, check the strainer as it doesn't take much to block them.

We've had a travel trailer for over 13 years, and pop-ups before them and this is the first time it's happened. So, it was just one of those things!

And, here's another one. With the Winnebago, I've had the circuit breaker trip when running AC and using the electric element for the water heater. That never happened with our Sunline trailer which we had for 10 years. But, I'm learning that when AC use is heavy, flip off the electric and use propane for the water heater. I tend to think that some of the new circuit breakers are more sensitive than the older ones. I know the anti-arc breakers that are in our new house trip a lot more easily, especially with our vacuum cleaner.
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Old 06-19-2016, 03:37 PM   #9
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Your converter/battery charger may be of a higher output than the one in the Sunline.
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Old 06-19-2016, 10:49 PM   #10
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Which means it's drawing more amps?
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Old 06-20-2016, 08:49 AM   #11
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Which means it's drawing more amps?
Of course it would. There may be other loads that are higher as well. Yes, a breaker can weaker and they are never perfect as to what load will cause them to trip.
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