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Old 12-10-2019, 03:36 PM   #1
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Now my dang heat is out!!!!

Wouldn't you know it.....coldest night of the year. My little 110s cant keep up so I turn on my gas heat and $@&*$ wouldn't you know it, it won't work!!!! I'm so mad.

Hope you guys can help?

OK, so my stove and hot water heater both work fine and my tanks are completely full of gas.

When I turn the gas heat themostat up it does kick on the fan, and I can hear the actual unit trying to fire up. About every 30 seconds I hear a clicking sound but never get that big jet engine sounding WOSH. The blower keeps blowing but its room temp air. I don't even know how to get to my furnace.

thoughts?

UPDATE: OK, now I'm more confused than ever. I just felt of it again and I'm sure that the air coming out is actually warmer than room temp, but certainly not warm like it usually is. THis is crazier than ever. I could understand if maybe the pilot light just wasn't lit so it would produce zero heat. But how can it produce just a little heat (very little). Seems like it would be all or nothing. THe air is full force air for sure. And I still hear it trying to light. So how can it be producing a little (very little) heat? Also, only the vent in the main room has slightly warm air. That is where (I assume) the furnace is since that is where I hear clicking.
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Old 12-10-2019, 04:03 PM   #2
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Post a pic of your thermostat. Your furnace is probably on the same side as your hot water tank, there will be a panel with an exhaust vent.
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Old 12-10-2019, 04:08 PM   #3
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I see it's a new 2020 model Highland Ridge trailer.

Has the furnace EVER worked?
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Old 12-10-2019, 04:11 PM   #4
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It sounds lile you may habe a dirty orifice or something in the lines. The unit should shut down if it does not light.

EDIT: I see it is a 2020..probably not dirty. May be the control board...
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Old 12-10-2019, 04:27 PM   #5
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Inside a cabinet on the door, inside a drawer etc should be a Data Sheet listing ALL of the components in your trailer

Post Brand/model of furnace!!

Generic.....
T-stat calls for heat (switch at t-stat closes)
12VDC goes to Furnace FAN..fan runs for 'purge cycle' (predetermined time)
When Sail Switch closes DC goes to/thru High Temp Limit Switch then to circuit board....when circuit board gets this DC it then sends DC to SPARK ELECTRODE and GAS VALVE. Electrode Fires (CLICK, CLICK. CLICK) and gas flows to burner.
SPark ignites gas....heats air.....temp comes up to T-stat set point/t-stat opens...gas valve closes...fan runs for 'cool down' cycle (predetermined time)


You are getting Spark (click, click) but gas is not lighting off or staying lit so you have DC thru the circuits and from circuit board just no flame

So spark gap could be too narrow/too wide
Spark electrode could be NOT centered over burner/out of position
Gas Valve Solenoid may not be getting Voltage



Atwood furnaces typically have a outside access panel
Suburban typically just have intake/exhaust ports exterior with access from inside usually behind 'louvered' return air panel




MOBILE RV TECH is worth getting HEAT!!!
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Old 12-10-2019, 04:34 PM   #6
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On my old rig it was the sensor circuit...the flame would light but it didnít sense it was lite. Had to replace controller board.
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Old 12-10-2019, 04:46 PM   #7
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ok, I'm not to have a stroke but I've never been so mad. WHen I bought my RV my salesman absolutely told me that they have a mobile repair team that could come to me for warranty work. We had a whole discussion about how I don't even have a truck to pull my camper so I couldn't bring it back for repairs and he said "no problem". Now I call and guess what? "Oh I don't think I said that...we don't have one here" Of course I'll be calling Management, etc but its my word against his so no doubt I'm screwed. I managed to find someone (private company) who would do warranty work BUT they said warranty only covers parts and labor but not service call and I'm so far away it will be $150-$200 I'd have to pay. So I got hosed by the dealer.

OK....sorry for the rant......let me tell you more about my heat and answer some questions.

It turns out that it is located under my tv cabinet according to the repair guy who seemed to know what he was talking about. There is a big vent (16 x 16 I'd guess) with lovers on it. He said I have to take 6 screws off that lover panel to access the furnace. He was super nice and tried to help but just couldn't make any sense out of my problems when I explained what I'm going to tell you all.....

OK, what is the most bizzare part to him (and me) is the fact that there is a little bit of warm air (i mean just a little- but it is warmer than room air) that comes out of the one vent that is right there in the cabinet where the furnace is. There is strong, forced air comming out of all the vents when the heat is turned out, but the air is cool on all of them except the one right at the furnice itself. No one can figure out why i might have a little warm air in one vent but none anywhere else.

Now, the blower runs constantly. But you can hear the furnice clicking over and over- about every 30 seconds as it tries to light. Now I think it sort of lights each time....I hear the very start of the WOSH each time, then it seems to go out. and then it does same thing 30 seconds later. Blower runs whole time, then furnce clicks, then starts to light (I think....but it never gets up to that full blown jet engine WOSH sound) then nothing.

What is killing me is that it worked perfect last time I used it 5 days ago, and I've done nothing since then. THen I turn it on today and its not working. Again, stove and hot water works fine and gas tanks are 100% full for sure.

TO answer some questions:
Yes, it worked great 5 days ago.

My RV is 30 days old (bought brand new) and furnace has been used maybe
2 hours TOTAL

I'll try to post photo of thermostat. Also will try to post furnace itself but it has square screws so I need to get a tool for it.

THANKS SO MUCH....this is soooooooooooooo frustrating

P.S. I doubt this matters but I want you all to have all the facts. For the last 4 days instead of turning the thermostat to off, I just left it on heat and set the temp to 40 degrees. So in a sense its been on the whole time, but certainly it has never been 40 degrees in here so it has never tried to come on until i set the thermostat to 72 today to turn it on (i also tried it at 90 degrees but no difference)
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Old 12-10-2019, 05:17 PM   #8
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It has to be something simple. It worked 5 day ago and is only 30 days old is why I say that.

Guys - as a temp test is it possible to light the furnace any other way like using a match from outside?
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Old 12-10-2019, 05:34 PM   #9
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Photos

Ok. Here is a photo of the furnace and my thermostat. Fyi...there is a reset switch on the furnace which got me excited but I flipped it back and forth a few times and nothing changed at all.

From this furnace you cant actually see the pilot light or where the flame would be the way you can on my water heater. So I cannot see if it is sparking or temporarily lighting and going out as i suspect. Taking the cover off my furnace itself would be a monumental job it appears. Id have to unmount it from floor, unhook all the air tubez,and somehow remove it from the cabinet.

I'm so frustrated. Thank good I have my 110 heater. It keeps it in the 50s and I can live with that for now but when it gets cold outside I am screwed.
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Old 12-10-2019, 05:58 PM   #10
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Just trying to help... but there could be another panel on the outside of the coach, that opens to the other side of your furnace where the pilot light, blower motor and exhaust is. I just opened mine for the first time last week.... Mine had the square screws on this panel below but regular phillips head inside. I have an RV not a trailer but many use the same or similar stuff.

If you can get to and open that panel maybe it will give some answers instead of more questions.

If you need help taking the outside panel off I might be able to offer some helpful advise. Its a little tricky the first time.

I actually have two furnaces one is mounted up and down the other side to side.

This picture below of one of mine to give you some idea what yours might look like.

Good Luck
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Old 12-10-2019, 06:05 PM   #11
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Did you change out your propane tanks today by chance? Have you actually lit the stove today? If you haven't lit the stove today, try lighting it for a few minutes first. The furnace seems to not be getting propane. It has a sail switch that must be activated by the fan in order for it to open the propane valve. It will try to light, but if no flame is sensed, it will shut down and try again. Sometimes if your tanks are empty, and you change them, you have to light the stove first to purge the air out of the lines. Are both of your tanks turned on. This is assuming you have two tanks.
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Old 12-10-2019, 06:36 PM   #12
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One thing that might help would be to unplug your trailer for 30 seconds that just might reset everything. Then try the furnace again. There is a slim chance this would work.

Maybe try to continue debugging your issue tomorrow in the daylight. Can you go get another electric heater tonight? I like the tower oscilating type. I have used two on cold nights to kept mostly warm.

Good luck
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Old 12-10-2019, 06:37 PM   #13
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Call the furnace manufacturer. They are the ones that would cover the warranty repair and they can walk you through troubleshooting it.
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Old 12-10-2019, 06:53 PM   #14
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