Originally Posted by bjlakatos
I searched the forum but didn't find any info on opening and resealing the underbelly. My TT has the corrugated plastic material enclosing the entire underbelly. i had to do some work with a waste valve in the center of the trailer and had to slice the material open. I am ready to zip it back up and i plan to use scrim-shield woven adhesive tape.
I am interested in your method or problems you ran into if you have ever opened and resealed your underbelly for repairs.
Just wanted to update the group on what i found. I cut the underbelly across the width to get to the area that I needed work on. I found the underside of the trailer was immaculately clean (except for a mud dabber nest). I also checked to see how the access area for the slide motor was designed. It had a wood frame screwed to the overall belly panel and a "door" that was designed to be removed. The windward side of the door was tucked into the underbelly and attached to the wood frame with screws. The rear end of the door was on the outside of the underbelly attached with screws to the wood frame up in the underbelly. Pretty cool.
Now--back to my side-side slice. I picked up a 1.5" wide rigid plastic strip in teh screen door dept at Lowes along with some 1" screws and washers. I attached one side with screws inside the belly and then attached the other side with screws. It looked like I sewed the underbelly panel back together using the screws and plastic strip. I figured the wood would flop in the wind.
I also found that the heater ducts have holes cut in them to allow heat to enter the underbelly area. Presumably to keep the tanks from freezing.
I ended up replacing the insulation underneath the black tank with the pink stuff from Home depot. I was not aware there was insulation under the tank. Cool.
After the first trip the repair job is intact. i will keep monitoring it to see how effective it is. I did not use any tape.