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Old 03-05-2016, 12:11 AM   #1
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Power Inverter Install

I've been slowly upgrading my new TT to get it the way I want. I have a new 2016 Pacific Coachworks Panther 20BBS. My latest upgrade was getting two 6 volt batters to replace the way too small Group 24 it came with.

Now I want to get my 120v power outlets to work all the time. Presently the outlets only work when connected to shore power or a generator.

I would like to be able to run the TV and other low draw items off the batteries. A new small RV sized LED television uses so little power there is no reason I can't run it off my new batteries.

I have no idea where to begin. Of course I don't have a wiring schematic from my TT. What is the easiest way to get my outlets live?
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Old 03-05-2016, 12:44 AM   #2
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First, find your converter/charger. That is a good place to start. You might have to replace the wires leading from the battery to the converter/charger for a larger inverter. You will probably find a wiring chart for the converter/charger near the unit itself.

Example: 1000 watts at 110 volts still equals 1000 watts at 12 volts, and for a twenty foot run for 1000 watts at 12v (80 amps) needs 2AWG wire.
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Old 03-05-2016, 12:57 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Tiger View Post
I've been slowly upgrading my new TT to get it the way I want. I have a new 2016 Pacific Coachworks Panther 20BBS. My latest upgrade was getting two 6 volt batters to replace the way too small Group 24 it came with.

Now I want to get my 120v power outlets to work all the time. Presently the outlets only work when connected to shore power or a generator.

I would like to be able to run the TV and other low draw items off the batteries. A new small RV sized LED television uses so little power there is no reason I can't run it off my new batteries.

I have no idea where to begin. Of course I don't have a wiring schematic from my TT. What is the easiest way to get my outlets live?
Wait, an RV led TV is 12v isn't it that runs off the batteries already? Why would U want one that is 120v?

Forgive me if I'm wrong. I'm a newbie and a total sponge at the moment
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Old 03-05-2016, 01:07 AM   #4
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12v TVs cost more than 120v TVs. Since they want 120v whole house through an inverter, the 120v tv is a good option.
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Old 03-05-2016, 04:18 AM   #5
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Check out this method...
Install inverter then plug your shore cable into the inverter via a adapter

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Old 03-05-2016, 05:00 AM   #6
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Our PA is configured this way. Simple to implement. As commented, their needs to be a way to disable the converter so as to avoid a charging loop. And you need to manage your devices for power configuration (such as ensure refrigerator is switched to propane).

As for 12vdc television. One does not have to nessisarily buy the more expensive 12vdc unit. Rather find a TV that uses a 12vdc output power brick and don't use the brick. Instead just wire it directly.
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Old 03-05-2016, 10:22 AM   #7
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As for 12vdc television. One does not have to nessisarily buy the more expensive 12vdc unit. Rather find a TV that uses a 12vdc output power brick and don't use the brick. Instead just wire it directly.
Even having done this before, I completely forgot about this easy way to run some items off 12 volts. Thanks for the reminder!
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Old 03-05-2016, 10:27 AM   #8
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Wait, an RV led TV is 12v isn't it that runs off the batteries already? Why would U want one that is 120v?

Forgive me if I'm wrong. I'm a newbie and a total sponge at the moment
I'm sorry I think I misspoke. I have an RV size TV. It runs off a regular 120 outlet.

I looked it up and it consumes 40 watts at 120
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Old 03-05-2016, 11:26 AM   #9
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Check out this method...
Install inverter then plug your shore cable into the inverter via a adapter

That method looks simple.

The question I have is how would I run the cable in my TT versus an RV. The 30amp cable is routed outside through the trap door and you want the inverter installed somewhere protected from the weather. I guess you can push the cable in and out but that might be a pain to do every day. The hatch for my power cable is under the slide out. It's not accessible from the inside if the slide is extended.

I will ponder it
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Old 03-05-2016, 12:23 PM   #10
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We did the inverter part of the project on the video several years ago...started with a 1000W MSW unit and after enjoying the system, have upgraded twice to now running a 2000W (3000W peak) unit.

Two rules to follow:
-Keep the 12VDC cables as short as possible (to reduce voltage drop in low voltage lines). Span the distance from inverter (near the batteries) to shore connection with a proper gauge 110VAC cord.
-ALWAYS switch off the on-board charger/converter at the same time as you connect the RV's shore power cord to the inverter outlet (inverter on or not) to avoid the death loop of inverter powering converter, powering the inverter, etc.

Like the video, all our connections are within the RV's outer boundary. For an external shore power cord connection, the connection should be easy to replace with a socket inside a bay (try to make it as easy to access as possible). You can remove and relocate or just disconnect the original and add a socket in a bin. The wires are just like extension cords, but with permanent end connections.

This system provides 4 major benefits over built-in inverters:
-The RV eletrical system remains intact for ease of repair and simplicity.
-Whole house power. But be careful of loading (like NO AIRCON) to avoid damage to the inverter or quick battery drain.
-No complex transfer switch system to fail. The RV just senses the inverter as if it is shore power.
-If the inverter fails (all appliances will fail some day), change/replacement is as easy as a few mounts and cord swaps.

Best luck

P.S. I highly discourage the use of wood as mounting material for electrical components like shown in the video. If metal mount points (properly insulated) are not available/possible, then try to obtain a poly material similar to a cutting board material. Wood is 1. Flammable and 2. Can hold moisture which can conduct electricty. Most DIY types don't consider conductivity of wood...but this can cause weird issues in electrical operation, later.
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Old 03-05-2016, 03:48 PM   #11
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Thanks Scarab. I'm trying to see how I could install a 30amp socket somewhere convenient. I guess it would have to be waterproof if it's on the exterior.
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Old 03-06-2016, 04:40 AM   #12
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Your inverter should be as close to your batteries as possible... Most inverters have a regular 110 plug built into them... Buy a 30 amp extension cable like below... cut off the male plug and then feed the cut wire thru the RV from area where your 30 amp cable is to where the inverter/batteries are... then buy a 110 male plug replacement for the cut end and plug it into the inverter ;-)


30amp Extension


110 Plug Replacement
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Old 03-06-2016, 05:13 AM   #13
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Don't cut the plug, use this on the inverter end.
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Old 03-06-2016, 09:40 AM   #14
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^^^ That will work also (and then you can actually use a regular extension cord)...

The advantage of cutting the plug is that it allows you to easily feed the cord thru your RV from one point to another in a permanent install scenario ;-)
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